This is a LOT of freakin' parts....

[duhvoodooman]

...for a single pedal! This is the new BYOC analog delay kit. It's their most expensive kit and most difficult build. Other than just the shear number of parts, it's some of the types that are a bit daunting:

Eleven IC's all with their own socket fixtures (8-, 14- and 16-pin types, totalling 120 legs to be soldered to the PCB!)
Nine (9) trimpots, all of which will need to be adjusted to optimize the delay, minimize the distortion and clock noise, and set several other operating parameters.
49 resistors, which is no big deal in itself. Except, in order to get 'em all on the PCB and keep it to a reasonable size, they all have to be mounted vertically, like the old vintage effects had. And when you get two or more placed parallel next to each other, you have to alternate which side of the two rows of holes the resistor body is on. Big fun.

This should eat up most of the non-football portion of this weekend.... :thwap:

http://duhvoodooman.com/miscimages/musical/AD/AD_parts.jpg

[Robert]

You need a hobby man... :thwap:

[hubberjub]

When do I get mine?

[marnold]

All's I know is that it better sound awesome!

[duhvoodooman]

When do I get mine?
Some time after determining that I can actually make mine work....

[markb]

Makes me think that a DM-2 isn't that expensive after all :)

All the best for the build, 9 trimpots to tweak would be a real disincentive for me.

[Kazz]

Makes me think that a DM-2 isn't that expensive after all :)

All the best for the build, 9 trimpots to tweak would be a real disincentive for me.


Maybe so....but BYOC is throwing in a free pick and a quarter with this new kit :rotflmao:

[oldguy]

You can do eet, waterb...........errr Voodooman.
Best of luck on the build, Bob. I know you'll have some clips for us if it works when you're done..................

[duhvoodooman]

All the best for the build, 9 trimpots to tweak would be a real disincentive for me.
Which is why you have a half-mad solder jockey like me around here, in case you want one anyway! :D

Seriously, the instructions are very detailed & specific on the order of the trimpot adjustment. My fellow BYOC forum moderators share their build experiences on the new kits, and I've yet to see any comments about people "chasing their tails" trying to dial in the sound.

It's a long build, but pretty straightforward thusfar. I figure it will be well worth the effort to get that coveted warm analog delay tone.... :drool:

[F_BSurfer]

can't wait to here the outcome...I don't know how you find all the time

[tunghaichuan]

.I don't know how you find all the time

Hint: they don't call him "duhvoodooman" for nothing. :master:

tung

[duhvoodooman]

Here's last night's progress--diodes, sockets, trimpots, transistors and film caps. On to resistors, ceramic caps and electrolytics today....

http://duhvoodooman.com/miscimages/musical/AD/AD_PCB_partial.jpg

[thearabianmage]

That looks mighty fine there, Vood. Good luck with the rest of the build!

[duhvoodooman]

Here's a little trick I use to make sure that I don't mix up the resistors in a build. Accidentally swapping a 100 ohm resistor with a 100K will screw up a pedal's function in a hurry. So I sort them all by color coding, check the resistance with a DMM, and then tape them by rating group onto a labeled sheet of paper:

http://duhvoodooman.com/miscimages/musical/AD/AD_res.jpg

So far, this method has served me well--I've never installed an incorrect resistor in a pedal build. (Hope I haven't jinxed myself now!)

[duhvoodooman]

The PCB is done--moving on to the pots, jacks & switches:

http://duhvoodooman.com/miscimages/musical/AD/AD_PCB_done.jpg

[just strum]

Just going through my first soldering job a couple of weeks ago, I have an even greater respect for your talent (and patience). Nice job!!!

[duhvoodooman]

xos2MnVxe-c

Mwa-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! And dialing in the pots wasn't bad at all....

[thearabianmage]

Mwa-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! And dialing in the pots wasn't bad at all....

:rotflmao:

Congrats! Was there ever a doubt in anyone's mind it would work? :AOK:

[Ch0jin]

Hey DVM, did you ever make yourself, or play with the GGG Delay?

I'd be really, really keen to hear how you think the true analogue unit compares with the GGG one, as I was blown away with both the sound and the warm analogue-like quality after I made mine (the GGG one). It sounds basically the same as the AD80 it was modeled after. To my ears at least. If the new BYOC one is noticeably different I might talk to you privately ;)

[Bloozcat]

You're getting scarey good at this DVM.....:AOK:

[duhvoodooman]

Hey DVM, did you ever make yourself, or play with the GGG Delay?

I'd be really, really keen to hear how you think the true analogue unit compares with the GGG one, as I was blown away with both the sound and the warm analogue-like quality after I made mine (the GGG one). It sounds basically the same as the AD80 it was modeled after. To my ears at least. If the new BYOC one is noticeably different I might talk to you privately ;)
Haven't built the GGG digital delay, but I did build the BYOC "ping-pong" delay which uses the same delay chip, the PT2399. The difference with the ping-pong delay is that it uses two delay stages to the GGG kit's one, and allows you to run them in series (additive delay; total of about 800 milliseconds) or parallel, for the ping-pong efffect.

It's a nice sounding delay, and if you want the cleanest sounding echo possible, digital delays are the way to go. I listened to the GGG audio clips, and it sounds very much like the BYOC ping-pong run in series mode. Very nice sounding delay, though it will only do about 400 millisec. or so total delay. But that's enough for most people's needs, I suspect.

The BYOC analog delay is quite a different beast. Here's the description of the pedal right off the BYOC product page, and it's an excellent depiction of the pedal's sound & capabilities:


"The BYOC Analog Delay kit features 100% true mechanical bypass with a dry out and boasts four 4096 step BBD (Bucket Brigade Delay) chips. Each BBD chip has its own dedicated clock driver chip to provide the lowest amount of clock noise and most efficient operation. With a 16,384 bucket brigade delay line, the BYOC analog delay isn't going to give you pristine clear bell like repeats. If you want that, you had better get yourself a digital delay. If you've never played an analog delay before, you should know that the repeats will be grainy and have some distortion. But if analog is the only thing that will do if for you, and you need more than the typical 300ms analog delay, then this is the delay for you.

The kit also has a Short/Long switch. This switch completely bypasses 3 of the 4 BBD stages to give you a perfect vintage slapback delay tone similar to a DM-2 in addition to having one of the longest analog delay times available today. The repeats are clearer when in short mode, but still distinctly analog."
It's just a very different sounding delay. Doesn't have the clarity of the digital delays, but a very warm and organic sound. With the four BBD chips, it will quite easily do a full second of total delay, though you do start to pick up a little background noise out past about 800 millisec. When you switch to the short mode (bypasses 3 of the 4 BBD stages), it will give you the nicest sounding slapback I've ever heard. Sweet!

I'm w-a-a-a-y behind on recording some clips for recent projects and acquisitions, but I'll try to get a short clip of this pedal posted tonight....


You're getting scarey good at this DVM.....:AOK:
Well, I'm not sure about "scarey good", but I sure was relieved when the pedal worked the first time I fired it up. With all the stuff on that board, troubleshooting might have been a real bear!! :eek:

[Ch0jin]

Thanks DVM :)

The thing with the GGG version is that according to the doc's whilst it does indeed use the PT2399 (and only one, so shorter delays than the old BYOC ping pong as you say) they explain in a fair bit of detail how they have tuned the filtering inside the circuit to try and replicate the analog style decay and grain of the AD80 it was based on. I'm sure the real analog one sounds different (and I'm after warm and organic rather than clean) and by the sounds of it, it does sound noticeably different.

Just one more question/request if you don't mind :)

Mine, and indeed the AD80 as well, can be driven into self oscillation pretty easily by just winding the repeats to maximum. Fun if your sitting down and can tweak the repeats knob, not fun if your standing up and you end up with crazeeeee feedback because you got a bit too full on with repeats.

Does the new BYOC self oscillate under the same conditions? I'm starting to think the longer delay times, and analog sounds might be enough reason for me to get one anyway. (gimme something to put together while I look for work anyways)

[duhvoodooman]

Just one more question/request if you don't mind :)

Mine, and indeed the AD80 as well, can be driven into self oscillation pretty easily by just winding the repeats to maximum. Fun if your sitting down and can tweak the repeats knob, not fun if your standing up and you end up with crazeeeee feedback because you got a bit too full on with repeats.

Does the new BYOC self oscillate under the same conditions? I'm starting to think the longer delay times, and analog sounds might be enough reason for me to get one anyway. (gimme something to put together while I look for work anyways)
The repeats behavior is directly controllable through two of the trimpots--one for the short delay (1-stage) and the other for the long (4-stage). So if you don't want the possibility of run-away oscillation, you can adjust the trimpots so that the pedal stops short of self-oscillation at the full repeats setting. Nifty, huh? :AOK:

[duhvoodooman]

OK, here's a "gutshot" of the assembled & functioning pedal, plus a link to a very brief clip. The clip is recorded using my Strat Plus, mostly on the bridge/middle setting. I ran the guitar through the BYOC analog delay pedal and into my Line 6 Toneport DI using the Gearbox Plug-in software set to the Hiwatt 100 amp model and set up for a clean tone.

The first couple of phrase are just the "dry" set-up. Next is a repeat of the same two phrases with the delay set for a slapback single repeat in the short mode. Nice vintage rockabilly sound! After that comes a descending phrase followed by an ascending one, with the delay set for about a half second in long mode, and the number of repeats dialed up about halfway. Finally, I played a few notes with the delay set up around 6/10 of a second and the repeats set just to the self-oscillation point. This gives a good idea of how the analog BBD chips introduce some distortion into the signal with each repeat. By the time the signal has been repeated a dozen times or so, it's been distorted very significantly. So if it's a long string of clear repeats you want, you're not going to want to use an analog delay.


BYOC Analog Delay demo clip (http://www.box.net/shared/fztvc6zhro)

http://duhvoodooman.com/miscimages/musical/AD/AD_gutshot.jpg

[Algonquin]

OK, here's a "gutshot"
OK, if I said that this place would clear out pretty quick :eek:

Nice looking work there DVM (AKA Bob the Builder).

Are those wires supposed to be loose?
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Kidding!

[Ch0jin]

Nifty, huh? :AOK:

Sure is, thats a great idea.

As usual your gut shots are intimidating :) I do have to give major props to whoever designed the layout though. VERY well done cramming all that in with extremely minimal external wiring etc.

Another less technical question though. It looks like your input jack has a ground wire but neither of your outputs do. Just curious as to why? Ground Loop elimination maybe?

[markb]

Very neat. My compliments to BYOC for cramming it into that size enclosure. Wouldn't that "ground" wire on the input be for battery switching, Chojin?

[Ch0jin]

Very neat. My compliments to BYOC for cramming it into that size enclosure. Wouldn't that "ground" wire on the input be for battery switching, Chojin?

I'd agree and crawl away in utter shame for forgetting about that (cause I did), except it just occurred to me that there is no battery for this effect AFAIK. These suck too much juice to make it worthwhile. I've even removed the battery from my GGG delay because with the 18V charge pump on board it just sucks them dry way too quick.

[Tele-Dave]

Parts?----------We don"t need no freaking parts!

[duhvoodooman]

I'd agree and crawl away in utter shame for forgetting about that (cause I did), except it just occurred to me that there is no battery for this effect AFAIK. These suck too much juice to make it worthwhile. I've even removed the battery from my GGG delay because with the 18V charge pump on board it just sucks them dry way too quick.
The output jacks are grounded through the metal enclosure back to the input jack. Works fine on an all-metal system like this, and avoids ground loops from separate ground connections. And as you guys pointed out, this pedal requires 9V AC adapter power, 'cuz it'll go through batteries like Pam Anderson goes through men.... :D

BTW, the two output jacks are "dry" and "wet", for running stereo output.


I do have to give major props to whoever designed the layout though. VERY well done cramming all that in with extremely minimal external wiring etc.
Keith Vonderhulls, the owner/founder of BYOC, does all the PCB layout designs himself. Not only are they very well laid out, but the quality of the fabrication is absolutely first rate. I don't know who fabs his boards, but these boys are good. Best PCB's I've ever worked with (not that that's a long list!) and very forgiving of mistakes. All the eyelets are through-plated, with solder pads on each side of the board--very durable and able to take multiple soldering operations. Both sides are used for traces, which allows a greater component density and keeps the overall size manageable. And there's a protective surface layer over the tops of the traces, so they're difficult to accidentally "lift". Just a pleasure to work on.

[bigoldron]

'cuz it'll go through batteries like Pam Anderson goes through men.... :D

Yeah, but what a way to go! :drool:

(I don't even care if she IS a member of PETA!) :crazyguy:

[sunvalleylaw]

Very cool DVM!

[Bloozcat]

Yup, The High Voodoo Priest of the effects underworld strikes again...:master:

Cool tone...I like the way it decays....:AOK:

[Blaze]

Yo!

This one seems to have been a challenge for the DVM , congrats to you, sounds awesome as well,nice analog character.. :bravo: :AOK:

[duhvoodooman]

Thanks, guys. It was all those trimpots that had me a little worried going in--I had visions of jumping back & forth, adjusting one and knocking two more out of whack, ad infinitum. But that turned out not to be a problem at all. So it's a ton of soldering, but if you've made a pedal or two before and follow the instructions carefully, it's really not so tough at all. Just be prepared to spend a long time doing it. Counting all the jacks, switches and pots in addition to the PCB components, I calculate slightly over 400 individual solder connections! :eek:

[markb]

I'd agree and crawl away in utter shame for forgetting about that (cause I did), except it just occurred to me that there is no battery for this effect AFAIK. These suck too much juice to make it worthwhile. I've even removed the battery from my GGG delay because with the 18V charge pump on board it just sucks them dry way too quick.

Oh, yeah! I've just noticed there's no room left for a battery :thwap:

[Ch0jin]

The output jacks are grounded through the metal enclosure back to the input jack. Works fine on an all-metal system like this, and avoids ground loops from separate ground connections.


Ah cool, thats basically what I thought was happening :)

So... (hehe I'm still not finished)

I've built less than a dozen pedals so I'm by no means as experienced as yourself in this regard, but I am concerned about one thing. Obviously if you paint the case you can remove enough paint from the socket area to get a good ground, but what happens when/if the jacks work loose over time? I'm concerned that a loose jack means an intermittent ground, and that might mean some less-than-tasty crackling and popping. I mean, a couple of star washers and a little Loctite (or nail polish) would minimize the risk, but if it were me, I'd be real, real tempted to connect up the jack grounds to the PCB ground, unless I actually noticed hum induced by a ground loop. I always thought ground loops were more likely in high voltage or high current circuits (in other words, Amps) as a result of voltage drop along the ground plane.

Anyway, not trying to pick on you or the designers in any way, just trying to offer constructive comments for the greater good :)

[tunghaichuan]

Keith Vonderhulls, the owner/founder of BYOC, does all the PCB layout designs himself. Not only are they very well laid out, but the quality of the fabrication is absolutely first rate. I don't know who fabs his boards, but these boys are good. Best PCB's I've ever worked with (not that that's a long list!) and very forgiving of mistakes. All the eyelets are through-plated, with solder pads on each side of the board--very durable and able to take multiple soldering operations. Both sides are used for traces, which allows a greater component density and keeps the overall size manageable. And there's a protective surface layer over the tops of the traces, so they're difficult to accidentally "lift". Just a pleasure to work on.

Looking good, Vood. :AOK: Can't wait to hear it in action. Maybe hooked up to the Rebel 20? :D :rotflmao: :poke:

Anyhoo, I totally agree with you on the quality of the BYOC PCBs. They were a joy to solder after dealing with several POS V2 Valve Junior boards.

400 solder joints, eh? That's a lot. :master:

tung

[duhvoodooman]

I've built less than a dozen pedals so I'm by no means as experienced as yourself in this regard, but I am concerned about one thing. Obviously if you paint the case you can remove enough paint from the socket area to get a good ground, but what happens when/if the jacks work loose over time? I'm concerned that a loose jack means an intermittent ground, and that might mean some less-than-tasty crackling and popping. I mean, a couple of star washers and a little Loctite (or nail polish) would minimize the risk, but if it were me, I'd be real, real tempted to connect up the jack grounds to the PCB ground, unless I actually noticed hum induced by a ground loop. I always thought ground loops were more likely in high voltage or high current circuits (in other words, Amps) as a result of voltage drop along the ground plane.

I have run into the grounding problem only once, on a customer's pedal that used a prepainted enclosure where the paint "overspray" got on the inside edges, where the metal jack makes contact. It still worked fine when the jack was tight, but when the jack became loose (from an unrelated issue), he experienced the typical grounding/popping behavior you get from a bad ground connection. In that case, I installed a ground wire from the output jack to the PCB, since an eyelet is provided on the board for that purpose.

The reason I don't do that routinely is that I have read several postings on the BYOC forum where builders have run into hum/buzz issues that were solved when the "extra" ground wire was cut. Seems to only happen very occasionally, so some special conditions are apparently present to trigger it. But getting rid of the 2nd ground usually solves the problem. For this reason, I generally use just the one, and I see many of the experienced BYOC builder's "gutshots" reflect this same practice. FWIW....

[duhvoodooman]

Here's what I've roughed out for a graphics scheme for the pedal. Whaddya think?

http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/744989f91a5c41d.gif

[tunghaichuan]

Looks pretty sweet, DVM. :master: :AOK: :dude:



Here's what I've roughed out for a graphics scheme for the pedal. Whaddya think?

http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/744989f91a5c41d.gif

[piebaldpython]

Very cool.....:D . Hey DVM, I was on the BYOC site and I see they will eventually be selling "amp kits". You gonna be "building amps" too?? :poke:

[duhvoodooman]

Hey DVM, I was on the BYOC site and I see they will eventually be selling "amp kits". You gonna be "building amps" too??
We'll have to see what Keith comes out with. I haven't heard anything definite yet, on either models or timing.

The idea of building & selling amps scares me. Nobody ever got electrocuted from a miswired 9V effect pedal, know what I mean, Vern? I think I'll leave that to the experienced amp jockeys, like Tung!

[tunghaichuan]

The idea of building & selling amps scares me. Nobody ever got electrocuted from a miswired 9V effect pedal, know what I mean, Vern? I think I'll leave that to the experienced amp jockeys, like Tung!

Most of the amps I've built have been for my use, exclusively. The one time I built an amp for a friend, I really sweated it. I live in dread fear that the amp will malfunction and burn the guy's house down. :eek: The only reason I built the amp for him is that he had just sold his vintage Fender VibroChamp and needed a replacement.

Personally, I think people make too much of the electrocution issue. Sure it is possible to get electrocuted, but you really have to work at it. When this hobby was really widespread back in the 40s, 50s, and 60s, you never heard about people getting killed building amps. And there were a lot of kits available. In the ten years I've been building amps, I've never heard of even one person dying from building an amp. It's like everything else that is inherently dangerous: you have to respect it, and follow safety precautions. I'm more afraid of power tools than I am when building amps.

tung

[duhvoodooman]

I'm more afraid of power tools than I am when building amps.
I won't go in the same room with a radial arm saw.... :eek:






(Only kidding, but I get your point, Tung!)

[tunghaichuan]

I won't go in the same room with a radial arm saw.... :eek:



Yeah, me too. I have a few routers that I use in amp building, and they scare the sh*t out of me :eek:

tung

[Ch0jin]

The reason I don't do that routinely is that I have read several postings on the BYOC forum where builders have run into hum/buzz issues that were solved when the "extra" ground wire was cut. Seems to only happen very occasionally, so some special conditions are apparently present to trigger it. But getting rid of the 2nd ground usually solves the problem. For this reason, I generally use just the one, and I see many of the experienced BYOC builder's "gutshots" reflect this same practice. FWIW....

Thanks DVM. Good to know for my future builds :)



Personally, I think people make too much of the electrocution issue. Sure it is possible to get electrocuted, but you really have to work at it.

Yes and No.

I think people perhaps talk it up for the same reasons you refer to in saying you sweated on an amp you built for a friend and DVM alluded to in saying 9V DC never killed anyone. That reason is moral and legal liability. You know it's unlikely the person you sell the kit or completed amp to is going to be fatally electrocuted, but your mind (and you lawyer mind) a little voice keeps saying "Yeah, but what if?". I think it's a serious responsibility to make people well aware of the risks, slight as they may be.

So yeah, maybe we all talk it up, but I'm happy to continue that practice.

As I've mentioned elsewhere I have a background in repair of everything from toasters to data projectors and I'm not (very) ashamed to admit I've been zapped a handful of times over the years and I didn't have to work hard to do it, I just had to be complacent or ignorant of the risk. I can think of a couple of examples that may serve as warnings. My first hard core drop-me-to-the-ground-and-trip-all-the-breakers shock was from, of all things, a clock radio. It was in pieces and I forgot it was plugged in, so when i picked it up, I got 240VAC across the palm of my hand. Not cool, and it was "only" a clock radio. I've been done by TV's, both 240VAC and several KV leaping into my chest from an improperly discharged CRT. It's not only the risk of electrocution either. I have a permanent scar on one finger that was a result of holding a 12V car wiring loom that was incorrectly installed as the battery was attached. 12VDC from a car battery into a dead short will melt insulation and flesh before you even smell the burning. I've also been knocked over by a car spark whilst holding on to the insulated plug lead. The spark came out of the end and wrapped 180 degrees around into my hand. I also thought I'd blinded myself once after attempting to cut 2 wires that were supposed to be dead. The resulting 240V discharge melted my cutters and the flash had me seeing spots for the rest of the day.

I know what your thinking "Man this guy is hopeless". Maybe so, but I'm also a trained professional who worked on this stuff for around 15 years, so if I can rack up that much carnage (and there's more), then imagine what could happen to a first time amp builder who doesn't have the experience, or the respect thats needed to avoid injury.

[tunghaichuan]

Yes and No.

I think people perhaps talk it up for the same reasons you refer to in saying you sweated on an amp you built for a friend and DVM alluded to in saying 9V DC never killed anyone. That reason is moral and legal liability. You know it's unlikely the person you sell the kit or completed amp to is going to be fatally electrocuted, but your mind (and you lawyer mind) a little voice keeps saying "Yeah, but what if?". I think it's a serious responsibility to make people well aware of the risks, slight as they may be.

So yeah, maybe we all talk it up, but I'm happy to continue that practice.

As I've mentioned elsewhere I have a background in repair of everything from toasters to data projectors and I'm not (very) ashamed to admit I've been zapped a handful of times over the years and I didn't have to work hard to do it, I just had to be complacent or ignorant of the risk. I can think of a couple of examples that may serve as warnings. My first hard core drop-me-to-the-ground-and-trip-all-the-breakers shock was from, of all things, a clock radio. It was in pieces and I forgot it was plugged in, so when i picked it up, I got 240VAC across the palm of my hand. Not cool, and it was "only" a clock radio. I've been done by TV's, both 240VAC and several KV leaping into my chest from an improperly discharged CRT. It's not only the risk of electrocution either. I have a permanent scar on one finger that was a result of holding a 12V car wiring loom that was incorrectly installed as the battery was attached. 12VDC from a car battery into a dead short will melt insulation and flesh before you even smell the burning. I've also been knocked over by a car spark whilst holding on to the insulated plug lead. The spark came out of the end and wrapped 180 degrees around into my hand. I also thought I'd blinded myself once after attempting to cut 2 wires that were supposed to be dead. The resulting 240V discharge melted my cutters and the flash had me seeing spots for the rest of the day.


All good points. I'm not blase about working on high voltage electronics. I strictly follow safety procedures and am happy to say I've only been shocked three or four times in the last 10 years. And never enough to impair me. It hurt like hell, but it didn't knock me across the room, or stop my heart, etc. But I understand about talking up the safety aspect. It is especially important to newbies.

The other thing that makes me sweat is helping newbies. I get a lot of beginners emailing me for advice, and it is kind of nerve wracking to answer them. I want to make sure I don't inadvertently give them some bad or misleading advice. I make sure I check my reply over two or three times before I send it.



I know what your thinking "Man this guy is hopeless". Maybe so, but I'm also a trained professional who worked on this stuff for around 15 years, so if I can rack up that much carnage (and there's more), then imagine what could happen to a first time amp builder who doesn't have the experience, or the respect thats needed to avoid injury.

Not at all. I'm a hobbyist at best, so coming from a seasoned pro, it is sage advice. Thanks for chiming in here.

tung

[duhvoodooman]

Finished pedal:

http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/7449a6a46b42f9b.jpg

[bigoldron]

If she sounds half as good as she looks, she's AWESOME!!! Great job as always, DVM!!!

[Ch0jin]

Nice work as always DVM :)

I'm counting 22 days from electronic build to finishing the casework though ;) I thought water slides were easier than that! :poke: :poke:

[duhvoodooman]

Nice work as always DVM :)

I'm counting 22 days from electronic build to finishing the casework though I thought water slides were easier than that!
When it's my own pedals, I've gotten so that I play 'em "naked" until I get a customer build that I need to paint & decal. Then I do a "campaign" of pedal finishing. Thanks to Piebaldpython for buying an Overdrive 2 that got me off my *** to do this one, my own OD2, and a BYOC Shredder I'd had assembled since....mid-January :o

[tot_Ou_tard]

Very cool Vood. I like the distortion in the delay. Sounds like rust mating.