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View Full Version : String-through-body bridge for the '51?



Robert
July 20th, 2006, 10:45 PM
How hard would this be? I think a string-through-body bridge would improve the tone on the '51. The strings feels a bit "rubbery" on the '51, dontcha think? I was thinking changing the bridge might help.

Bloozcat
July 21st, 2006, 06:42 AM
Robert,

I too toyed with the idea of installing a string through bridge on my '51. I had to remind myself over and over that this was an inexpensive guitar, and that any mods I did to it should be in keeping with that concept. Fortunately, GFS came out with a top loading bridge that satisfied the need for a more solid bridge on the '51 without changing the guitar from a great deal to just another mid-priced guitar. The cost of the bridge is only $11.95.

Here's a post by a guy over at the Squire '51 site who did a string through '51 and a GFS replacement bridge on another '51. Below that is my evaluation of the bridge from the same site:

jwsamuel
S'51 Newbie
USA
27 Posts


First, thanks for the nice words.

I don't think the string-thru changes the tone/sustain one bit. That was the first change I made on my first 51. At the time I did that, the GFS bridge did not exist and I had not thought of just changing the saddles on the existing bridge. So, I made the change.

I think changing the saddles on the blonde 51 had just as much effect as converting to string through. I would not convert a 51 to string-thru again.

Jim


Bloozcat
S'51 Newbie
56 Posts


Well, yesterday was the day to install the new GFS bridge on my '51 and here's my initial impressions:

Ease of installation: Installation didn't pose any difficulties worth noting, really. Most of the holes didn't line up as noted by others, but with the old toothpick trick it was easy to guide the screws into new holes. The back middle screw hole can be made by simply starting a hole with an awl and allowing the screw to cut it's own threads. Basswood is like that...

String set-up: Stringing the guitar is so much easier with this bridge than with the stock one. The downward angle of the string path as it passes over the bridge saddle to the string end retaining hole in the back of the bridge is noticably better than with the stock bridge. The saddles themselves are very easy to adjust. With the two E string saddles having guide slots beneath the height adjustment screws on the bridge plate, there is no side-to-side movement of the saddles when playing...particularly when bending strings (* in all fairness, the stock bridge also has this feature*). Setting string height was a snap. When I got the strings to the desired 1/16" action, the adjustment screws protruded only slightly from the saddles causing no inconvenience or discomfort when resting the heal of the hand on the bridge.

Intonation: Setting intonation was very easily accomplished, with plenty of necessary travel in the saddle/screw adjustment.

Tone & sustain: This is the area where I was most pleasantly suprised. After reading the comments of others, I expected that I would lose the "plinky" sound, and the "buzz" that the stock bridge exhibited. What I was pleasantly suprised to find was that the bridge really enhanced the tonal qualities of the guitar as well. Open and fretted notes now ring clearer, with more chime and balance. For the first time I can now hear the wood's resonance in the notes and chords. Sustain is enhanced in that without the plink and buzz, the notes are free to decay more naturally. Since the strings that I replaced were less than two weeks old, I've discounted that effect on my evaluation as well. It's really the bridge!

Conclusion: This is the best $12.00 you can spend on a Squire '51. Even if you do no other mods, this one alone will make the '51 a better sounding and playing instrument.

Robert
July 24th, 2006, 09:18 PM
Thanks Bloozcat - it sounds like it's worth trying the saddle change. What do you recommend for saddles for the '51? I think I will be ordering a bunch of little things from StewMac soon.

ZoSo65
July 24th, 2006, 09:51 PM
Depending on whats involved converting it to a string through, might help make your mind up also.
If it's just a matter of a new bridge and string ferrules(top & bottom,,probably bottom only needed-depending on bridge) I'd say go for it. But I've always been partial to string through designs. If you can get more tone from the body, it's got to be better,,that's just my thought though.
It worked really well for the axe I built(Black Betty). And that's not just me saying that, but a couple other pro guitar players that have tried her.
One train of thought, if the axe is relatively inexpensive, give it a shot, can't hurt,,, right?! You can always try other options or go back to stock set-up with better hardware.
One thing I was told, and it seems to hold true, is how "loud", and I use that term loosely, the sound is when you strum the strings, standard tuning, and unpluged, is. Black Betty is very "loud", very acoustical sounding. Now, being I loaded her with EMG's kind of takes away from that, but that's what I wanted for her. But I am thinking of coming up with some kind of "quick PUP change system" for her, and if possible without having to remove or change string height. One thing that is kind of grinding the wheels, is the 25k pots used for them to work properly, but I think a pot change over with maybe a mini switch and a few resistors will over come that.
Anyhoo, sorry to get off topic.
But I say go for the string through, especially if it's not too much trouble. ;)

Bloozcat
July 25th, 2006, 10:39 AM
Thanks Bloozcat - it sounds like it's worth trying the saddle change. What do you recommend for saddles for the '51? I think I will be ordering a bunch of little things from StewMac soon.

Robert,

The bridge saddles that I've heard others have tried are the Callahams. They would have to be the ones he makes as replacements for the MIM bridges, which are the same string spread as the '51. I just looked at the GFS site, and the top loading replacement bridge I spoke of, is no longer shown. I remember that someone had e-mailed Jay at GFS to ask about the bridges, Jay said that they're on order, but as they are imported, it'll take some time before they arrive. The folks at the Squire '51 site wiped GFS out of the last order. That bridge is really the way to go, Robert. The saddles are all offset allowing for an unimpeded string path from the saddle to the back of the bridge plate. For the $11.95 that the bridge cost, it's a ridiculously easy solution. I haven't spoken to anyone who's installed one that isn't happy with it (including me).

As to the ease of doing a string through. I've done them before, and it's not that difficult. A drill press is a must if you expect it to come out right. Rather than taking the time to write out the steps, I'll just paste the steps that Jim Samuel already posted on the '51 site:

jwsamuel
S'51 Newbie
USA
27 Posts


Here is the proper way to drill the holes for a string-though bridge.

1. Plut masking tape over the guitar body to cover the area where the holes will be drilled.

2. Locate your bridge in its proper position.

3. Using the bridge as your guide, and on the top of the body, mark the location of the holes for the first and sixth strings.

4. Drill the holes for the first and sixth string using a 1/16" drill bit. Drill through the body.

5. Turn the body over and locate the holes for the first and sixth strings.

6. Draw a straight line between the two holes.

7. Hold the bridge so the the holes for the strings on the bridge line up with the holes in the body for the first and sixth strings.

8. using the bridge as a guide on the back side of the body, mark the locations of the holes for striongs 2 through 5. The marks should be placed along the line you marked earlier.

9. Drill the holes for the ferrules in the diameter required for the ferrules you are going to use. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE BODY. Go only as deep as needed for the ferrules.

10. When all six holes have been drilled for the ferrules, turn the body over and place the bridge in position again. Line up the first and sixth holes and mark the locations for holes 2 through 5.

11. Drill all six holes to a diameter of 3/32 or 1/8". Drill through the body until the drill bit passes into the cavity created when you drilled out the ferrule openings below.

Doing it this way should give you a straight row of ferrules on the bottom side of the body and a stright line of holes on the top. If you try to drill straight through from the top, the holes on the back of the guitar are likely to be misaligned.

Jim

Robert
July 25th, 2006, 11:27 AM
So with the GFS top loading bridge, I don't need to replace the saddles? They are decent the way they are? Or should I still get Callaham saddles?

Bloozcat
July 25th, 2006, 12:19 PM
So with the GFS top loading bridge, I don't need to replace the saddles? They are decent the way they are? Or should I still get Callaham saddles?

I'd wait until the GFS bridge is available again. With that bridge, you won't need anything more. The saddles work really well, the plinkiness and buzzing goes away, and the notes ring much clearer as a result.

...and all for just $11.95 USD. Can't beat that, it's like the bridge was made for the '51. If only Squire had looked at these when they were procuring the parts for the '51...;)

Here's what the bridge looks like. NOTE: This is the black version. It also comes in chrome.
http://site.guitarfetish.com/C21_A.jpg
http://site.guitarfetish.com/C21_B.jpg

Robert
July 25th, 2006, 04:01 PM
How do I find on GFS when it becomes available? Is there a model number for this bridge?

Bloozcat
July 26th, 2006, 06:30 AM
How do I find on GFS when it becomes available? Is there a model number for this bridge?

I can't recall the model number Robert, but if you go to GFS' website and look under Guitar Bridges - Fender Type, you'll see the picture of it when it's available again.

http://store.guitarfetish.com/

The message from Jay at GFS in answer to an inquiry about when the new stock would be in was dated around mid-May. At that time Jay said there had been a problem with some size spec and that it would be "2-3 weeks" before the new order arrived. I guess it's taking a little longer, because that delivery date was somewhere in the neighborhood of early June. I think I'll e-mail Jay for an update.

EDIT TO NOTE: I believe the model # of the bridge is C21

Robert
August 6th, 2006, 04:22 PM
What about this one - http://store.guitarfetish.com/blhabrfortea.html
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-50206111187217_1905_2429979
Will it not fit?