Some Advice Requested from the Bike Folks

[just strum]

I noted in another thread that I was thinking of trading my Trek 8000 for another bike. In the event the person doesn't want to trade or doesn't have something that interests me, I was wondering your thoughts.

I want to get a bike that allows me to ride in a more upright position. One of the problems I've always had when riding is lower back pain. The 8000 is too small of a bike for me (seat up high and need to lean over too far to hold the handlebars).

If I buy a new bike or find a used one, I was thinking along the lines of a Trek 7200
http://eddys.com/itemdetails.cfm?LibId=37569#ReviewHeader

It would provide me with a comfortable ride, including the riding position that would be better on my back.

I think the company may pay for a portion of it because we have a program for partial payment of exercise equipment and this might qualify.

Any thoughts or comments?

[sunvalleylaw]

To really get a good fit, you need the assistance of a good bike shop. But I like Trek bikes in general. Giant is also a good brand where the size of the company allows you to get a good bike for the money. One thing that also might be possible, if your frame is not too small for you, is simply retrofitting your current bike with a more upright stem and some riser bars ( http://www.thefind.com/sports/info-riser-bar-high-rise ), that give you that more upright position. Again, for frame fit, you need the assistance of a person who knows bike fitting or a decent shop with said person. But there are ways to adjust the riding position on a bike that otherwise fits, without buying a whole new bike.

[Spudman]

A hybird is just what you are looking for.

Some options for hybrids if you can do some assembly.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/hybrid_bikes.htm

[WackyT]

I've been looking at getting a new bike also, and am seriously considering the Novara Buzz from REI.

Novara Buzz Bike - 2009 (http://www.rei.com/product/775745#)

http://media.rei.com/media/yy/aaae5be9-53de-47d7-83a5-d5d5a019f3ed.jpg

[Perfect Stranger]

This is what I ride.....

http://www.academy.com/images/products/400/0454/0454-02763-1901-p1.jpg

:beer:

[just strum]

A hybird is just what you are looking for.

Some options for hybrids if you can do some assembly.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/hybrid_bikes.htm

I have no problem with assembly.

I'm looking for information on Motobecane and have found a little (reviews). The reviews are very mixed on both Motobecane and bikesdirect. So, it really doesn't provide enough information. I tried Bike Forum, but filled with a bunch of a-holes - only did a search, didn't bother registering.


Have you or someone you know dealt with BikesDirect?

[markb]

MBK/Motobecane are pretty low end these days. 700c wheels roll easier than 26" but can still take nice comfy tyres. Low end suspension is a maintnance nightmare, go with a rigid fork and use fatter tyres at lower pressures. FWIW, here's a pic of me and my ride in the old country.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/68/197343204_5fa217a39d.jpg

[Spudman]

Have you or someone you know dealt with BikesDirect?

I got my wife's road bike there. It came with better wheels on it than my bike has. It was well packaged and quickly shipped.

Motobecane has been around forever. No worrys about quality. Besides, this level of bike is made in the same factory as every other brand. You'll get a quality product.

[just strum]

Again, for frame fit, you need the assistance of a person who knows bike fitting or a decent shop with said person. But there are ways to adjust the riding position on a bike that otherwise fits, without buying a whole new bike.

After looking into this some more, I think I am better off keeping the bike I have and making some mods to it. I have to put on new tires (currently has off road Piranha Pro).

It has a USA frame and USA made rims.

In addition to the tires, I will look at some risers that might do the trick. I would like to see if I can get some risers that aren't ridiculously priced. I'm not sure about changing out the stem (I have to look at what is involved in doing that). I am also thinking of putting a seat post in with a shock absorber, but not necessarily a high priority.

If I do all that, I don't think the frame will be an issue. I took it riding this morning and besides the changes I noted, I don't see a need for anything else.

Edit: To clarify, I am referring to the section that drops through the head tube and connects to the fork. I realize the stem is actually the section between the bar and the headset (neck). Probably wrong terminology, but hopefully the bike folks know what I a am referring to.

[just strum]

I found this stem and neck. I'm not sure how to determine the length of the neck I need to order.

I think this would work and that way I can keep the flat bars that I have.

http://www.bikesomewhere.com/bikesomewhere.cfm/product/385/3642/22344

Spud or SVL, any comments on determining the one I should order?

[Spudman]

If you want to sit more upright then go with the 80 length stem. It will make your steering a little quicker but shouldn't be a problem.

Below you mentioned "risers". What are they?

[just strum]

If you want to sit more upright then go with the 80 length stem. It will make your steering a little quicker but shouldn't be a problem.

Below you mentioned "risers". What are they?

Thanks.

Referring to the risers: They are just a term for the type of handlebars. The flat bar being the straight bar with no bends - common in mountain bikes, but also my preference, especially if I install the neck and stem I noted.

Risers have bends on each side of center and depending on the position installed, can make the bars closer or further from the rider.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=202

[sunvalleylaw]

I concur with Spud on the stem choice. Riser bars are as Strum said, and they are coming on more mountain bikes these days. My Sugar 293 had riser bars installed when it came from Gary Fisher.

[Spudman]

If you get riser bars don't forget that you'll need some of these as well.:whatever:

http://di1.shopping.com/images1/pi/7e/25/39/83535709-300x300-0-0_Childrens+Childs+Cycle+Bike+Handle+Bar+Streamers +3.jpg

Real men don't use riser bars.:cool:

[markb]

Real men don't use riser bars.:cool:

Real men ride drops

Gentlemen ride North Road bars

Ladies ride side-saddle :)

[just strum]

If you get riser bars don't forget that you'll need some of these as well.:whatever:

http://di1.shopping.com/images1/pi/7e/25/39/83535709-300x300-0-0_Childrens+Childs+Cycle+Bike+Handle+Bar+Streamers +3.jpg

Real men don't use riser bars.:cool:


4th of July coming up - maybe red, white, and blue ones.

[Spudman]

4th of July coming up - maybe red, white, and blue ones.

That would be really cute. Pics or it didn't happen.:D

[marnold]

Don't forget about the baseball card to put in the spokes!

[Tig]

I found this stem and neck. I'm not sure how to determine the length of the neck I need to order.
I think this would work and that way I can keep the flat bars that I have.
http://www.bikesomewhere.com/bikesomewhere.cfm/product/385/3642/22344


I used to be a bike mechanic 6 years ago, and the adjustable stem you are looking at might help quite a bit. It comes in 80mm, 100mm, and 120mm (too long). You measure a stem length from center of the handlebar to the center of the steering tube or vertical stem, depending on the type.

When I say type, there are two stem/steerer tube designs used on most modern bikes: quill and threadless
...Let me back up a little. The steerer tube is the part of the fork that comes up through the head tube of the bike frame.
A quill stem is older, and not seen on high end bikes in about the last 6-7 years. It has an expander wedge, like the one in the webpage you posted:
http://www.bikesomewhere.com/images/large/85DF9DB8-F1F0-408F-1E0EF0C0894A3E6C.jpg

There is nothing wrong with these, and they offer a bit of height adjustment as long as you don't expose the hash marks that show you the limit that they can be raised. The fork's steerer tube is threaded.

The threadless stems are not L shaped, and clamp onto a steerer tube that has no threads. It sounds like you have the older quill stem, so I won't go into these unless you need more info. That puts you into the bike mechanic zone, as they require some experience to mess with.

Now, you likely need the 1 inch and not the 1 1/8th inch diameter stem, but I have no idea what year your Trek 8000 is and what it uses. Also, you need to make sure what diameter the existing stem's clamp/handlebar is before buying a new stem. A mountain/hybrid stem has a clamp diameter of 25.4mm for flat bars. A regular road stem clamp will be 26.00mm for drop bars. The one in the webpage is 25.4 mm, so it should work, but check to see if your current stem or handlebar list the size, usually right in or near the middle of the bar.

Anywayz, you can go with the 80 mm one at the website and should be fine. The price looks good, and having 4 bolts is the best choice for the handlebar clamp end. Strong and easy to install, as long as you don't over-torque the bolts. Tighten them done in a patern like you would when changing a car tire, and make sure the face plate is evenly level. Kalloy also makes adjustable stems, but make sure you get something with at least the 2 bolt face plate (4 is still better). Here's a Google Shopping search to check other offerings and prices:
http://www.google.com/products?q=look%20adjustable%20quill%20stem&hl=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf

Be sure you are looking at the right stem type and size before pulling the trigger. Also, a good bike mechanic can do all of this for a reasonable price if you buy or order a stem through the shop. Tehy can order the stem from any of their suppliers and get it in within a few days.

HTH

[Spudman]

Strummy

What year is your Trek 8000?

[just strum]

Strummy

What year is your Trek 8000?


I don't know, haven't been able to figure it out. All indication is it was made in the USA.

Not the best pics, but

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/002-5.jpg

In the next pic you will notice how the front brake cable goes through the stem. When I replace it I will need to get a bracket (in the location of the reflector bracket) to maintain tension on the cable. I have no clue what that bracket is called.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/007-3.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/003-4.jpg http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/005-3.jpg

I plan on taking the bike up the the bike shop that sells Trek and see if they can tell me what year it is.

[just strum]

I used to be a bike mechanic 6 years ago, and the adjustable stem you are looking at might help quite a bit. It comes in 80mm, 100mm, and 120mm (too long). You measure a stem length from center of the handlebar to the center of the steering tube or vertical stem, depending on the type.

When I say type, there are two stem/steerer tube designs used on most modern bikes: quill and threadless

The part that goes into the headtube has an expander wedge as pictured. I just pulled it to make sure.




Now, you likely need the 1 inch and not the 1 1/8th inch diameter stem, but I have no idea what year your Trek 8000 is and what it uses.

It measures .875 at the last portion of the exposed area (I know, I should have measured it when I had it removed). I will check it again, but I assume that it has a taper and the portion inside the head tube is a little larger (1")


Also, you need to make sure what diameter the existing stem's clamp/handlebar is before buying a new stem. A mountain/hybrid stem has a clamp diameter of 25.4mm for flat bars.

The bar dia where it attaches to the stem is 25.4 (why is one section metric and the other US Standard?)


and make sure the face plate is evenly level. Kalloy also makes adjustable stems, but make sure you get something with at least the 2 bolt face plate (4 is still better).

What is the face plate you are referring to?



Here's a Google Shopping search to check other offerings and prices:
http://www.google.com/products?q=look%20adjustable%20quill%20stem&hl=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf

I'll check this out, thanks.

[Spudman]

Biopace. Ha ha ha ha ha.:rotflmao:

Sorry but I couldn't help myself.


Get the 80 cm adjustable stem in 1 inch that you posted below for starters. It will work. The problem is that with those brakes though you'll need another way to hang your front brake cable. On your current one it goes through the stem for a cable stop. What you'll have to do is get a cable hanger (http://www.bikeworldusa.us/BRAKE-PART-Cable-Hanger-FT-Sunlite/M/B0017QA7W2.htm) for the 1 inch headset. You'll also need a new front brake cable and housing.

I'm guessing those are Araya RM20 rims? Get a set of these (http://www.performancebike.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10052_10551_1070102_-1_36000_20000_36004) in 26x1.5 and a pair of these (http://www.performancebike.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10052_10551_1034761_-1_36000_20000_36004). You should be ready to rock and roll swiftly and upright.

[Tig]

Get the 80 cm adjustable stem in 1 inch that you posted below for starters. It will work. The problem is that with those brakes though you'll need another way to hang your front brake cable. On your current one it goes through the stem for a cable stop. What you'll have to do is get a cable hanger (http://www.bikeworldusa.us/BRAKE-PART-Cable-Hanger-FT-Sunlite/M/B0017QA7W2.htm) for the 1 inch headset. You'll also need a new front brake cable and housing.


+11'ty. That should work. The cable hanger has to be mounted under the top bolt of the headset when the stem is removed. Also, the front brake cable will have to be shortened and the brake adjusted.

This is looking more like a job for an experienced pro, so don't feel like you have to do it all yourself. Stem failures can result in ICU visits!

Gotta' go, as my contract job just ended!

I'll check thefret from home later.

[Spudman]

+11'ty. That should work. The cable hanger has to be mounted under the top bolt of the headset when the stem is removed.

He means NUT, under the top nut of the headset. And you may have to remove one of the headset washers to make room for the cable hangar. Not too tough to do.

[Tig]

He means NUT, under the top nut of the headset. And you may have to remove one of the headset washers to make room for the cable hangar. Not too tough to do.

Yup, I meant nut. Doh! Sorry, gettin' layed off has reduced my brain power today. Life could be worsererer though. (I've developed goofy wording and silly spelling, thanks to online forums, so forgive me)

I'd remove the front reflector bracket and replace it with the brake cable bracket.

Headset work also requires at least 1 special wrench, like a thin 32 mm, to hold the second nut in place while torquing the top one. Oh, that sounds kinky if taken the wrong way!
Anyway, that's why I believe this is a bike shop job.

[just strum]

I'll order the parts and then see if I can do it. If I screw it up, I'll take it in.

I replaced a fuel injection system on my old Mercedes, I do all the brake work on my cars, I should be able to do this.

If I need a special wrench, I'll buy one or see if one of the cyclist at work have one.

I believe just an adjustment of the wire length on the brakes should do the trick. I have a tire changing kit that I carried on my other bike.

[just strum]

I'm guessing those are Araya RM20 rims? Get a set of these (http://www.performancebike.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10052_10551_1070102_-1_36000_20000_36004) in 26x1.5 and a pair of these (http://www.performancebike.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10052_10551_1034761_-1_36000_20000_36004). You should be ready to rock and roll swiftly and upright.

Currently has 26 x 2.10. What does the 1.5 and the 2.10 represent?

[Spudman]

Currently has 26 x 2.10. What does the 1.5 and the 2.10 represent?

1.5 etc. is the tire's width. If you are riding pavement get the narrow tires (1.5) and you'll be flying. They use higher air pressure and lower rolling resistance and will make that old dog of a Trek feel like a sports car.

[just strum]

1.5 etc. is the tire's width. If you are riding pavement get the narrow tires (1.5) and you'll be flying. They use higher air pressure and lower rolling resistance and will make that old dog of a Trek feel like a sports car.

That's what I thought, but I wanted to make sure it had nothing to do with rim width where it attaches to the tire.

Tires ordered.

[markb]

You'll need 2 32mm thin spanners to adjust the headset properly. Yu have to hold the cup nut while torquing down on the locknut or you'll overtighten. You can do it with one spanner but it takes a bit of experience to feel how loose to leave the cup.
For speedy but tough tyres try Schwalbe Marathons or anything else with an antipuncture belt. It really works. Rim width is not really an issue unless you try to run 2.5" tyres on a road width rim.

[just strum]

You'll need 2 32mm thin spanners to adjust the headset properly. Yu have to hold the cup nut while torquing down on the locknut or you'll overtighten. You can do it with one spanner but it takes a bit of experience to feel how loose to leave the cup.
For speedy but tough tyres try Schwalbe Marathons or anything else with an antipuncture belt. It really works. Rim width is not really an issue unless you try to run 2.5" tyres on a road width rim.

I purchased one thin wrench for the lower nut and will use a standard wrench for the upper nut.

I ordered everything.

From one store: Tires, tube and wrench

Store two: brake cable bracket

Store three: Stem and neck

The shipping cost was enough for a guitar.

[just strum]

Conversion complete

New tires and tubes
brake cable bracket
BBB HighSix Quill 25.4mm Bicycle Stem
New seat (from my other bike)
Toe clips w/straps (again, from other bike)

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/018-1.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/016-1.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/014-1.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/017-2.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/015-1.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/012-4.jpg

The other bike

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/013-3.jpg

[Spudman]

That stem looks pretty high. Make sure you aren't above the limit marks. You'll get a lot of flex with it that high too. Otherwise, it looks pretty zippy. I love those kind of tires.

[Tig]

That stem looks pretty high. Make sure you aren't above the limit marks. You'll get a lot of flex with it that high too.

I agree. Make sure the hash marks are below/hidden by the top headset nut. The nice thing about using the brake cable guide fixed at the headset is you can adjust the stem height without having to also adjust the front brake cable.

Just Strum, you did a great job! With what you learned, you will be able to maintain and adjust the bike more from here on. I should have remembered to give you this How-To website by Park Tools back when you needed it most... Sorry!
http://www.parktool.com/repair/
Well, keep it for future guidance.

By looking at the height of the seat and bars, the frame looks a little small for you, but it should all work fine and was much cheaper than buying a new bike. I'm for recycling bikes when possible. I'd rather ride a fram on the small side than one too large.

Also, what is the manufacturer of the blue bike?

[markb]

Are those Suntour Barcon shifters on the road bike, Strum? I may have a home for those :)