More Adventures in Restringing (Floyd Content)

[marnold]

I changed the strings on my DK2M on Sunday for the first time. It was also my first-ever string change with a non-Speedloader Floyd Rose. It was not as hard as I thought it would be, but I'm glad I had the experience with the Speedloader already. The trem stop held the bridge in place so I didn't have to do anything heroic. I followed Spud's advice and ran the ball end through the tuners, made a bend by the fine-tuners on the bridge, cut the string, locked it down in the bridge, and then tuned. Keeping the ball end on made everything a lot simpler. Between Spud's technique and the trem stop, I swapped the strings in about the same amount of time I would change strings on a fixed bridge--if not even slightly faster. The only issues came due to the angle the strings take past the nut due to the pointy headstock, but that's the price you pay for style and, dare I say it, sexiness.

I also took the opportunity to tweak my truss rod since I was getting a bit too much bow. It had the effect of raising the action while still causing my high E to fret out on bends above the 12th fret. Thankfully the truss rod required the same 7mm wrench that my old Charvel Model 7 did. Now it plays even better. I probably could flatten it out even more, but I absolutely despise fret buzz so I try to avoid it at all costs.

The amazing thing is that I can think of nothing negative to say about this guitar. Nothing. It's like I've finally found my match. I haven't had this lack of guitar GAS in, well, ever. Amph GAS is an entirely different story . . .

[FrankenFretter]

I changed the strings on my DK2M on Sunday for the first time. It was also my first-ever string change with a non-Speedloader Floyd Rose. It was not as hard as I thought it would be, but I'm glad I had the experience with the Speedloader already. The trem stop held the bridge in place so I didn't have to do anything heroic. I followed Spud's advice and ran the ball end through the tuners, made a bend by the fine-tuners on the bridge, cut the string, locked it down in the bridge, and then tuned. Keeping the ball end on made everything a lot simpler. Between Spud's technique and the trem stop, I swapped the strings in about the same amount of time I would change strings on a fixed bridge--if not even slightly faster. The only issues came due to the angle the strings take past the nut due to the pointy headstock, but that's the price you pay for style and, dare I say it, sexiness.

I also took the opportunity to tweak my truss rod since I was getting a bit too much bow. It had the effect of raising the action while still causing my high E to fret out on bends above the 12th fret. Thankfully the truss rod required the same 7mm wrench that my old Charvel Model 7 did. Now it plays even better. I probably could flatten it out even more, but I absolutely despise fret buzz so I try to avoid it at all costs.

The amazing thing is that I can think of nothing negative to say about this guitar. Nothing. It's like I've finally found my match. I haven't had this lack of guitar GAS in, well, ever. Amph GAS is an entirely different story . . .


My Douglas has a non-Speedloader Floyd, and I've been hesitant to change the strings because of that fact. And they're probably due. Good stuff to know, Rev. I've heard a 9-volt battery behind the trem block will hold it in place for string changes. My Douglas also has the pointy headstock and the need to relieve the bow via the truss rod. I've been doing that slowly, and it's been making a (slow) difference.

[marnold]

I've heard a 9-volt battery behind the trem block will hold it in place for string changes.
I've seen people put a nine volt in between the bridge and the body (on top of the guitar) but that only works on non-recessed Floyds. My guess would be that even if you put a nine volt behind the block, it would be more likely to fall out when a string is removed. The bridge will want to move as if you were pulling the strings sharp. It wouldn't work on my DK2M in any case because I've got too much space between the block and the cavity.

The trem stop I got was this:
http://www.axcessories.com/products.asp?cat=103

Simple, relatively cheap, and effective.

[FrankenFretter]

Nice. I'll have to order one of those. Thanks!

[marnold]

Nice. I'll have to order one of those. Thanks!
They're very handy. Just one word of advice, though. Decide how many springs you're going to want to keep on and place that stop accordingly. I've got four springs on mine with the stop in the middle. If you've got three springs, you might need to do a bit of adjusting.

I just had to adjust the intonation on my low E again. That stop was a godsend for that.

[FrankenFretter]

The guitar came with the "standard" 3 springs, but I do tend to like a firmer feeling tremolo. Maybe I'll order a few more springs when I order the Trem-Stop. I wasn't sure I'd like the Floyd when I first got it; I'd heard mixed things about them. I had a Washburn with a Kahler many years ago, and of course my project Strat has the Fender clone tremolo, but this is my first Floyd. I have to say, I love it. I'm now a fan. :rockon: :dude

Just out of curiosity, what ever became of your Charvel? Is there a thread about that somewhere here?

[marnold]

Just out of curiosity, what ever became of your Charvel? Is there a thread about that somewhere here?
Oh, there's more on here about that than you'd probably ever want to read :) I was going to repaint it and put in new pups, but I lost enthusiasm for the project. I ended up selling it to a guy on the Jackson/Charvel forums. I took the money from that and bought my Floyd. The Model 7 was a Tele-style with a maple fretboard.

[Spudman]

I'm glad to hear my method worked and you are enjoying your guitar. Isn't that what it's all about...and looking marvelous too.:beer: