Wood work

[evenkeel]

The back of my Martin has a bunch of small dings. It was like this when I got it. I liked the tone so much I felt I could ignore the blemishes. But, no sense in leaving well enough alone :thwap so I decided to try and spot reair the back.

Here is what it looked like before the repair effort. The largest spot in the middle has just been hit with some 400 grit sandpaper.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/evenkeel_album/D2rbackrepair1.jpg

I spot sanded all the dings, maybe 7-8 in total. Then brushed on a coat of nitro lacquer. This Martin actually was finished with a catalyized lacquer but I opted to use the regular stuff.

After drying for 3-4 hours I sanded again, 400 grit and reapplied the lacquer. The idea was to expand the coverage each time, feathering into the finish and build up the ding to the same level. Here is a pic at this stage of things. You can see the sand marks but the dings are starting to fade.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/evenkeel_album/d2rbackrepair2.jpg

More filling and sanding, now with 600 grit paper.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/evenkeel_album/d2rbackrepair3.jpg

I went around this dial four times until I got things pretty evened out. The final step was to wet sand the entire back side to blend into the repair. This was done with 800 grit, then 1500 grit. Then a light compound, then a final polish.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/evenkeel_album/d2rbackrepairfinal.jpg

I'm very pleased with the results. The dings are still visible but you really need to hold the guitar in just the right light to find 'em.

I should add I'd never do this with a "real' Martin. My D2R is a poor mans Martin, like a Shenandoan or even a Sigma so I figured I could not really make things any worse.

[luvmyshiner]

Nice job Keel! Looks great.

[sunvalleylaw]

Cool! I am not sure why you wouldn't do such a repair to your "real Martin". Looks like it came out great!

[Kazz]

Looks great Keel....the only thing I would have suggested is after you sanded the clear off....take a hot iron....and a damp towel to the nicks...if it is in the wood itself...and steam out the dent in the wood....once you have it steamed back to level...then lightly sand and finish accordingly.

At least that is how I do pool cues when they get nicked up. (Usually rock maple or some variant) No I am not talking about $20 house cues either...I play with Italian Meucci Orignals from the 60's and 70's back when they were hand made.

[evenkeel]

Looks great Keel....the only thing I would have suggested is after you sanded the clear off....take a hot iron....and a damp towel to the nicks...if it is in the wood itself...and steam out the dent in the wood....once you have it steamed back to level...then lightly sand and finish accordingly.

Great tip. Wish I'd had that little tid bit before I started. Only one of the dings impacted into the wood. I may go back later and try and redo it. Thanks.

FYI, the "sanding block" I used was a D cell battery. Not my idea, but a good tip.

Thanks for the kudos

[M29]

Some dents can be what they call drop filled with lacquer then scraped flat with the surrounding surface with a razor blade and then finished like you did. If a dent is pretty deep this technique may be used. Just a thought.
You did a nice job congrats. It sure is satisfying to do this stuff on your own.:AOK

[evenkeel]

Some dents can be what they call drop filled with lacquer then scraped flat with the surrounding surface with a razor blade and then finished like you did.
I considered that method. Since the guitar was finished with a catalyzed lacquer I thought the drop fill method would not blend in well. With traditional nitro cellulouse lacquer when you drop in the new material it softens the old lacquer, making the repair less visible. Sometimes you might drop in some lacquer thinner to soften the surface more. Catalyzed lacquers will not do this and are therefore harder to spot repair.

[M29]

That is very true ek, I missed that when I replied. The blending of laquer into the underlying lacquer is the beauty of the product in a spot repair.

[otaypanky]

Looks great!
Just a side note, a wonderful alternative to regular wet/dry paper is Micro Mesh, available in kits at woodworking supply houses. It's much longer lasting and has grits up to 12000. I refinshed a Strat using Reranch products a few months ago and this stuff just amazed me how well it works.
Now keep that belt buckle covered :)

[evenkeel]

Looks great!
Just a side note, a wonderful alternative to regular wet/dry paper is Micro Mesh, available in kits at woodworking supply houses. It's much longer lasting and has grits up to 12000. I refinshed a Strat using Reranch products a few months ago and this stuff just amazed me how well it works.
Now keep that belt buckle covered :)
Thanks for the tip. I do want to do a bit more buffing and polishing so will give the micro mesh a try.

[otaypanky]

You begin to get a satin sheen to the lacquer once you work up to 6000 grade. You can go to a full gloss if you work up to 12000. The kits aren't cheap, $20 for the small and $45 for the larger kit. I got it at a WoodCraft store. They sell online as well
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2004014/2004014.aspx

[M29]

Thanks for the info OP:AOK