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View Full Version : shaping Tusq nut - changing angle



Pickngrin
February 11th, 2010, 07:16 AM
I just got a black Tusq pre-slotted nut. Last night, I was working on it, sanding it to fit my guitar and eventually I realized that I need to change the angle of the bottom. However, it's difficult to hold the nut, small to begin with, at an angle and rub it against sandpaper on the workbench. Any tips on how I can change the angle a bit?

Thanks!

Bloozcat
February 11th, 2010, 08:04 AM
You're probably not going to like the answer.....

http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/335.jpg

One very handy attachment for a Dremel tool....

Pickngrin
February 11th, 2010, 09:44 AM
Funny, I actually have one of those that I picked up on clearance several years ago but never used. How would I go about using that to change the angle of the nut? Or were you suggesting modifying the nut slot (which I would not want to do)?

Bloozcat
February 11th, 2010, 10:01 AM
Funny, I actually have one of those that I picked up on clearance several years ago but never used. How would I go about using that to change the angle of the nut? Or were you suggesting modifying the nut slot (which I would not want to do)?

First of all, what guitar are you putting it on? Are you trying to change the back of the nut to match the radius of the fretboard (as in a Fender nut slot)?

If it is a Fender neck, Tusq makes pre-slotted nuts for Fender with a curved back to match the nut slot radius. It has a raised delta-like protrusion in the center in case your nut slot is flat as may be the case on some import Fenders. You simply remove this protrusion to fit it to a radiused Fender nut slot.

Otherwise, you'd use the Dremel with a router bit to re-shape the bottom of the nut. First you'd have to make a template out of something like plexiglass with the proper radius curve. This would be the guide for the router bit to follow. A lot of extra work if it's just a matter of buying an already radiused nut.

If you're good with a Dremel tool, you could even free hand the radius with sanding wheels.

Pickngrin
February 11th, 2010, 10:22 AM
It's going into an import Hamer (SATF). I bought the Tusq Epiphone nut because it was the closest fit. I'm not trying to change the radius.
If I put the new nut (after the sanding I've done so far) in the slot with the base flush with the bottom, the nut is angled away from the fretboard. I need to change the angle so that both the bottom and (fretboard) side of the nut are flush.

Bloozcat
February 11th, 2010, 10:58 AM
OK, I see what you mean. Kind of strange that the nut slot wouldn't be square with the fretboard so that the nut would sit perpendicular to the fretboard in the nut slot. What does the existing nut look like? Is the bottom angled like you're proposing to do on the new one? Or, was the top of the nut shaped differently (which would seem odd)?

Hand sanding is probably the only way, then. That is, if you want to be careful and not overdo it.

I recently got a combination belt/disc bench sander for jobs like this and so many others that seem to pop up. It sure saves a lot of time over hand sanding.

navvid
February 11th, 2010, 02:48 PM
As Blooz said, you might not like the answer, but the correct solution would be to level the bottom of the nut slot. I know it sucks, but this will be the best long term solution, especially if you ever change the nut again. If the slot is not level, it is difficult to get good mating of the parts (bottom of the nut against the bottom of the slot).

Heywood Jablomie
February 11th, 2010, 05:24 PM
Did your initial sanding create the angle (i.e. does it lean when standing on a flat, level surface)? I know it's easy to do, because I've done it. Point is, if you did, you can sand it perpendicular again (assuming that doesn't take the nut down too far). I don't think there are any special "tricks" except for care and patience.

Pickngrin
February 11th, 2010, 06:32 PM
Did your initial sanding create the angle (i.e. does it lean when standing on a flat, level surface)? I know it's easy to do, because I've done it. Point is, if you did, you can sand it perpendicular again (assuming that doesn't take the nut down too far). I don't think there are any special "tricks" except for care and patience.

Yes, I just checked and it does lean a bit. I thought that I had sanded evenly (with the sandpaper on the workbench), but I suppose that I didn't. I just don't know how I can manage to sand it perpendicular (it's difficult to hold these little things at an angle while sanding.

Heywood Jablomie
February 11th, 2010, 07:23 PM
I just don't know how I can manage to sand it perpendicular (it's difficult to hold these little things at an angle while sanding.
Difficult, but not impossible. You may sand your fingers, too - that's how it goes...

Since you obviously (like me) put more force on on one side, hold it the other way around, and check your progress often. BTW, what grit sandpaper are you using? I use 150.

Pickngrin
February 11th, 2010, 07:34 PM
Difficult, but not impossible. You may sand your fingers, too - that's how it goes...

Since you obviously (like me) put more force on on one side, hold it the other way around, and check your progress often. BTW, what grit sandpaper are you using? I use 150.

I don't remember which way I was sanding last night (which side was getting more pressure). I was using 220 grit but I think am going to ascend to some finer grit now so that I don't remove too much material too quickly. I don't mind sanding my fingers a bit, but I don't want to kill this nut in the process...

Great screen name, by the way!