Anyone put a bigsby on an Epi or other LP?

[Duff]

I am thinking about putting a Bigsby B7 with roller bearing bridge on an Epi LP Standard I have.

Has anyone put a Bigsby on their LP?

I have heard that it is supposed to be easy with the B7.

I wonder if the roller bridge will match the size and threads on my Epi bridge studs?

The B7 kit comes with the roller bridge and new studs with bushings to mount in your guitar.

Mounting the new studs would require removing the current bridge studs and dowelling the holes, then drilling out for the bigsby studs. Seems like a more precision, exacting, technical job than I am prepared to do. I can put on the bigsby but don't want to mess with the bridge.

A tech a Stewmac advised me that many people take a small file and file out the string "V" slots in the tonepro bridge to a more "U" like form. This, of course would take off the plating on the tonepro bridge at the string slots and the strings would be sliding across a different metal, maybe zinc. This doesn't seem like a great idea.

Anyone have any ideas.

I could take the guitar to a tech and have him put the roller bridge on. This route would be time consuming and could mess up the top of the guitar.

Bigsby doesn't have a phone number so I think I will try to email them, as they have an email address. Maybe I can get them to tell me if my bridge posts are threaded to accept their roller bridge.

[markb]

23DH-uFn6A8

Like this. Not difficult if you take your time. The B70 is a bit cheaper and imo better finished than the B7.
There are drop in replacement roller bridges. I think GFS sell one for a reasonable price but roller bridges are not essential.

[Duff]

Decent video, however, the Cat left out one of the most important aspects of installing the bigsby and didn't explain positioning or installing it at all: the roller bridge.

He went straight from installing the bigsby to stringing up the guitar and I'm not sure if he installed a roller bridge or used the stock bridge.

The final project turned out really well though.

You mentioned that a roller bridge was not essential. Does that mean you can use your stock bridge and not get strings hanging up out of tune and excessive string breakage at the wear point on the "V" shaped bridge saddles?

Filing the "V" to a "U" would expose the base metal of the bridge, possibly zinc. Would this be a good idea? Seems like the zinc would have a incompatibility with the nickel plated strings causing degradation of the strings at the point of contact and movement.

Your input is greatly appreciated though. Thanks. But I'm still concerned about how to approach the bridge. I'll check GFS.

[markb]

I'd say try the stock bridge without modification and see how you get on. A switch to Graphtech saddles would help if it's sticky without going to the expense of fitting a roller bridge.
Buf, if you do want to replace it, the post size is the key in replacing a TOM bridge. Most bridges fit either US or import sized. Your Epi bridge will have the larger import posts.
It's worth asking anyone you're thinking of buying a bridge from what size (exactly) their posts are. If they don't give you a helpful answer I'd shop elsewhere.
Here's the GFS part.

http://store.guitarfetish.com/robrchplfile.html

[wingsdad]

Why are you convinced or assume that a roller bearing bridge is essential with a Bigsby? Are you planning on 'dive bombing'? Bigsbys are an 'old school trem unit intended for gentler pitch shifts than more modern trem systems. Why not just install the Bigsby, or have a tech install it, see how it goes, and if you feel it hangs up, consider (a) lubing the saddles & nut slots and/or (b) switching to Graphtech saddles as MarkB suggests?

I suppose someone here knows of one, but I can't recall a factory Bigsby-equipped model Gretsch, Ibanez, Epi, Fender Tele, G&L ASAT or any other make that was stock with a roller bridge. Just yesterday while browsing at my local dealer, I tried out a Gretsch Electromatic Pro Jet w/ Bigsby, no roller bridge, and it didn't hang at all.

FWIW, MF has this model, and, just as with an Epi Wildkat, it's got the stock TOM bridge:

Epi LP Standard with Factory Bigsby (http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Epiphone-LimitedEdition-Les-Paul-Standard-Electric-Guitar-With-Bigsby-Vibrato-?sku=581891)

[Duff]

Yo Wingsdad, I am not assuming anything and am not convinced of anything.

I don't know anything about installing a bigsby on my LP. But I definitely know what a bigsby is and what it is intended for. I know what its limitations are and that it can contribute to you LPs tone, even if not used, probably due to the mass in the string path.

My question was about the roller bridge of which I have no knowledge of it's role in the bigsby function. All indications are that the roller bridge is a good idea with a bigsby, as far as I can tell. Not having to necessarily put one on is good news and the type of info I was wondering about. But I do know what a bigsby is and its capabilities and applications.

Fender trems have specially designed bridge saddles to facilitate string movement when applying the trem arm. The new Am Standard I have has redesigned old school saddles to reduce string wear. It is only reasonable to think that a bigsby would include a modified bridge saddle, to the uninitiated.

Notice also that the roller bridge is included in the B7 bigsby kit. Obviously there is a reason for this inclusion. Nothing says its optional. I get information from good guys like you. Word of mouth. Excuse my ignorance if I should have known better.

From my investigation I found that filing the saddles might be necessary.

The graphtec alternative sounds real good. No changes at all sounds reasonable and I'll try it.

I am just trying to get info from anyone that actually did the mod. But I appreciate the feedback from you guys. Thanks.

I act like I don't know what's essential with the bigsby installation, because I don't.

I have an Epi LP Standard that I am modifying. Put on a nice kill switch, and want to put on a nice bigsby.

The video was easy to understand, but nothing was said about the bridge. Therefore, knowing that a lot of people use roller bridges with bigsbys and seeing pictures of classic guitars with bigsbys including roller bridges, I thought having one might be a good idea if not essential for proper action of the unit.

Knowing that lubrication and graphtec saddles are an option is good news.

I'm not stupid or assuming ridiculous ideas, I'm just trying to get a handle on a project I want to do that I have no prior experience with but feel that my abilities are up to the task.

I always try to give encouragement to people seeking knowledge about things I know something about, or at least would like to think I do. I don't do the class down thing. Know what I mean?

Other ideas are definitely welcome from those who have ideas.

[Duff]

Note:

This Taylor T3B Semi Hollowbody Electric Guitar comes with a bigsby with a roller bridge. Americanmusical.

Also I found that the owner of this new Epiphone Wildkat Electric Guitar with Bigsby Tremolo ordered a roller bridge for about 22 dollars. Americanmusical.

Gretsch Guitars G6136TSL Silver Falcon Electric Guitar with Bigsby -- Black Finish Features: Space Control roller bridge. MF.

Gretsch Guitars G6128TDS Duo Jet Electric Guitar With Bigsby Features: rocking bar bridge. MF.

Gretsch Guitars G6128T Duo Jet Electric Guitar with Bigsby Features: Space control roller bridge. MF.

Gretsch Guitars G6136T White Falcon with Bigsby Features: Space control roller bridge. MF.

The reason of my post was to find out about putting on a roller bridge, which seems like a good idea considering the above guitars all come with specialized bridges combined with their bigsbys. It is only reasonable to suspect that a bridge mod will be in order when installing a bigsby.

It is good to know that one is not necessary and that a lot of mfg's don't seem to use modified bridges. But a lot of these long time bigsby equiped guitar mfg's seem to universally use some type of roller or other modified bridge with the bigsby.

So yeah, you can get away without one but it might be smart to try to find one that will fit your bridge without modification. Possibly the GFS one.

In case anyone is thinking of putting on a bigsby you might want to know that the roller bridge is not just some frivolous overkill, but a sensible compliment to any bigsby tremolo.

[Duff]

All of the Ibanez semi hollow body's I played today had roller bridges.

Also I noticed that utilizing the trem had a definite tendency to throw the strings out of tune, even with very moderate application. Constantly retuning.

These are not real bigsby trems though, but I imagine that the same tuning problems happen with bigsby's.

Therefore, I may just not get a bigsby because of the tuning instability, worse by far than the fender style trems.

[FrankenFretter]

I was just re-reading this with interest, since my Epi Flamekat (http://www.thefret.net/showthread.php?t=15989&highlight=Epi+Flamekat) has a Bigsby-style vibrato, and it seems to go out of tune more than it should. After changing to a heavier gauge string set (10-46), and setting the intonation, it does seem to stay in tune better, however. I'm still considering going with a roller bridge, though. I'd like to not have to worry about re-tuning that often, and it makes sense that the roller bridge would facilitate that.

I don't do any dive-bombing on the Flamekat, just a little tremolo sometimes, ala The Mermen (http://www.mermen.net/). Still, it seems to not want to stay in tune for long.

[deeaa]

CAUTION I have had a Gibson LP and an Epi one and a HB one and on _none_ of those the studs were exactly the same distance apart.

For instance the stopbar of the Gibson didn't fit the epi, because on the epi the studs were slightly closer to each other. Noticed this when I put in a TP-6; direct replacement for a gibby but had to file the studs to slide it on the epi.

On the cheap HB copy the studs were on the other hand too far apart, again by like a millimetre; I could fit the TP-6 on it by using some force too, but it was way tight. Conversely the HB stopbar was so far off from the Epi one there was no way it would fit.

There are similar small differences to most Epi parts it seems...covered pickups are slightly bigger than gibson ones, etc. etc...so just be advised it's worth checking if the Bigsby really fits the Epi OK.

[FrankenFretter]

CAUTION I have had a Gibson LP and an Epi one and a HB one and on _none_ of those the studs were exactly the same distance apart.

For instance the stopbar of the Gibson didn't fit the epi, because on the epi the studs were slightly closer to each other. Noticed this when I put in a TP-6; direct replacement for a gibby but had to file the studs to slide it on the epi.

On the cheap HB copy the studs were on the other hand too far apart, again by like a millimetre; I could fit the TP-6 on it by using some force too, but it was way tight. Conversely the HB stopbar was so far off from the Epi one there was no way it would fit.

There are similar small differences to most Epi parts it seems...covered pickups are slightly bigger than gibson ones, etc. etc...so just be advised it's worth checking if the Bigsby really fits the Epi OK.

Roger that, Dee. I believe that the studs are the 74mm, but I'll measure before I go so far as to order one. I could always use a few nails and well-placed wood screws, like you did on your Junk-caster...:thumbsup