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mainestratman
March 24th, 2010, 02:38 PM
There has to be a fellow or two on this forum who homebrews.

I've been out of homebrewing for 15 years.. what are some good extracts/mashes to get started with these days? I'm interested primarily in ales.

Thanks!


:beer:

bcdon
March 24th, 2010, 04:05 PM
There has to be a fellow or two on this forum who homebrews.

:beer:

This thread (http://www.thefret.net/showthread.php?t=14830) must have got you as thirsty as it did me. I've never home brewed but would love to start, but right now I just need a beer.

mainestratman
March 24th, 2010, 04:10 PM
It did.. however, I've been thinking about getting back into brewing for about 6 months. :-)

poodlesrule
March 24th, 2010, 04:19 PM
Head out to the forum homebrewtalk.com (I am beergears there)
(beginner forum, wiki, excellent recipe sections, general banter, etc)

There are a few good vendors present there, Two stand out: Austin Homebrew and a forumite who started his business, Brewmaster Warehouse

You could take a look at Austin homebrew offerings and select a kit you know is going to be good or great.

Edit: The homebrewtalk crowd is *almost* as good as here...!

mainestratman
March 24th, 2010, 04:59 PM
Hey poodles.. thanks for the info... I have been going over that forum already, and have been finding some incredible similarities to here... namely, there is a "zman" there as well as here, and another member there has Robert's sigline.. LOL

I will keep reading! Thanks!

sunvalleylaw
March 24th, 2010, 05:24 PM
I used to homebrew regularly, and got to be pretty good at it. I had a killer high octane full calorie and flavor spiced Christmas ale which was likely my flagship.

Somewhere between adding the second and third child my homebrewing fell off though. I hope to return to it one of these days. Meanwhile, there are lots of good craft beers available.

marnold
March 25th, 2010, 08:08 AM
I'm not only a homebrewer, but I'm president of the Green Bay Rackers homebrew club. I used to have all my recipes online, but not since I switched ISPs. Can you do all-grain?

mainestratman
March 25th, 2010, 08:22 AM
Rev.. I have no equipment at the moment. Over the next couple months we're going to slowly amass what I'll be needing.. starting with getting set up for extracts, then evolving from there.

marnold
March 25th, 2010, 08:37 AM
Here's a painfully easy Winter Warmer recipe
6.6# Northwestern Gold liquid extract
3.3# Northwestern Dark liquid extract
1 oz German Northern Brewer pellets (8.5% AA--60 minutes)
.5 oz East Kent Goldings pellets (5.6% AA--60 minutes)
1 oz East Kent Goldings pellets (5.6% AA--10 minutes)
.5 oz East Kent Goldings pellets (5.6% AA--at knock-out)
Starter of Wyeast #1338 European Ale yeast

Here's an IPA
9.3# Northwestern Gold liquid extract
2 oz Galena pellets (12% AA--60 mins)
1 oz East Kent Goldings whole hops (homegrown AA unknown--60 mins)
2 oz East Kent Goldings whole hops (homegrown AA unknown--10 mins)
1 oz East Kent Goldings whole hops (homegrown AA unknown--dry hop)
2 tsp Gypsum added to water
2 pkts Danstar London dry ale yeast

You can use your favorite ale yeasts for either of those. I prefer something malty/less attenuative for the first and something drier and fruitier for the second. Northwestern extract is repackaged Briess. I used my own hops in the second one. Just substitute store-bought Goldings. Or you could use Cascade for more of an American flavor.

mainestratman
March 25th, 2010, 08:52 AM
I like painfully easy... and ales. :-)

Thanks! I've started a BEER folder on my desktop.

sunvalleylaw
March 25th, 2010, 08:52 AM
Marnold is much more an expert than I. I never brewed from all grain, but rather used extracts. Non hopped. Prehopped extract can be nasty. I prefer whole hops to pellets. I also preferred to use dry extract rather than canned thinking it gave a little bit more flavor, and depending on the recipe, plenty of specialty grains for flavor and/or color. I like to use Wyeast yeast, and on some recipes would throw in a pack of dry champagne yeast to finish off fermentation nicely.

I have used a variety of whole hops including
Cascade (boiling)
Domestich Saaz (boiling)
Hallertau (finish)
English or Kent Goldings (finish)
Tettnanger (finish)
Fuggle (finish)

Seems like Cascade is my go to boiling hop as I look over old notes.

I would love to figure out a recipe to capture the flavors of both Deschutes Greenlakes Organic, and their new Red Chair, and also Stone Ruination IPA.

I have fixings for kind of a scottish ale (like Mack and Jacks kinda) that I may brew up this spring to get into it. Very easy recipe.

In my Christmas beers, I was never afraid to add some honey, a little molasses, ginger, orange rind, a bit of spice (but not too much, too much anise or nutmeg is not pretty), cinnamon, etc. Usually, I had plenty of 6.0LCrystal, maybe some Chocolate or Caramel grains, and some Black Patent to provide some back up and support for the extra spices and such. Never ever do I use sugars for fermentation.

poodlesrule
March 25th, 2010, 09:09 AM
I would love to figure out a recipe to capture the flavors of both Deschutes Greenlakes Organic, and their new Red Chair, and also Stone Ruination IPA.

Ah a hophead, I see...
As mentioned earlier, homebrewtalk has an extensive recipe section with many clones like beers above, and useful post-brewing comments.

marnold
March 25th, 2010, 09:14 AM
Oh, I should mention too that those recipes assume a full-wort boil. If you are only boiling part of it, you'll see to ramp up the hopping accordingly.

syo
March 30th, 2010, 06:55 AM
Whoa...
All this talk is making me flashback 15-20 years ago. When my beer gear was more important than any other gear. Unfortunately, my best bitter was the first one I ever made and it was all downhill after that.

SVL and Marnold are getting me a bit pumped up though...Goldings, Fuggle, Crystal malt... Too bad in my hands they wind up tasting of bananas... :puke:

ZMAN
March 30th, 2010, 07:33 AM
I am not the Zman over at the brew site. I used to make beer and wine, I loved the making part it was the bottling that I hated. Probably some really good new inventions to clean bottles, or maybe even disposable bottles now. The wine turned out the best. We made several batches but then a local vintner came up with excellent local wine that is sold in bulk in 16 Litre boxes.
I know "Gag in a box", but these are exceptional wines that sell for less than 4 dollars a bottle. So it didn't make sense to make it any more. I am in the centre of the award winning Canadian wine area. We have the exact same lattitude and climate as the best French wine areas including the Niagara escarpment that is perfect for wine growing.
The craft brewing is also very huge in this area, and a lot of the really older small town brewers are flourishing. Again not worth the time and expense to do it at home.
How do you guys approach the bottling thing with the beer?

sumitomo
March 30th, 2010, 07:51 AM
I think most of the guys skip the bottleing stage Zman,They sound like they use a ladle or a pump!Sumi:D:D

marnold
March 30th, 2010, 08:20 AM
I am not the Zman over at the brew site. I used to make beer and wine, I loved the making part it was the bottling that I hated. Probably some really good new inventions to clean bottles, or maybe even disposable bottles now.
I just went to corny (five gallon pop) kegs. Much easier to clean one big bottle than 50 little ones. And the bursting strength is somewhere in the vicinity of 200 psi.

sunvalleylaw
March 30th, 2010, 10:04 AM
I still bottle, and use a bit of corn sugar (just a bit, the only corn sugar that goes in my beer) to stimulated a little bit of fermentation for fizz in the bottle.

Syo, watch your fermentation temps. Getting too hot or variable temps seemed to be the culprit if I ever had a banana like flavor. I would rather go slow and easy than over do it and ferment too fast. Also, make sure you boil everything, or at least have your finish hops in the last 5 or so minutes of the boil. I try to have some boiling water that I use to sanitize anything that comes in contact with my beer, like a spoon if I needed it, thermometers, etc. One reason I stopped brewing much after a couple kids was it was really hard to keep things as sterile as I wanted. Now that the kids are older, I would like to give it a go again. This thread is getting me pumped up a bit for it too.

ZMAN
March 30th, 2010, 11:28 AM
I just went to corny (five gallon pop) kegs. Much easier to clean one big bottle than 50 little ones. And the bursting strength is somewhere in the vicinity of 200 psi.

Interesting. What are the logistics in using a 5 gallon pop keg. How do you dispense the beer. Just like a regular keg beer keg, or do you use a pump?

Update: Never mind. I just read up on Cornelius Kegs. They look pretty good, but the pressure was reported at 135 PSI. Still pretty reasonable.

marnold
March 30th, 2010, 11:50 AM
Interesting. What are the logistics in using a 5 gallon pop keg. How do you dispense the beer. Just like a regular keg beer keg, or do you use a pump?

Update: Never mind. I just read up on Cornelius Kegs. They look pretty good, but the pressure was reported at 135 PSI. Still pretty reasonable.
I've got a 20# CO2 tank, tubing, fittings, and a cobra tap. Pretty straightforward.

I just checked one of my kegs. It says 130 PSI. I'm sure there's a "Bubba" factor beyond that too, although I have no interest in finding out. I would guess that at that pressure, the relief valve might vent. Anyway, you would have to go out of your way to get pressures that high. Yeast will die before they produce CO2 in those kinds of pressures. If you would force pressurize it that high, well, you get what you deserve.

I usually dispense at ~13 PSI and force-carbonate at ~30 PSI.

I do have this story: I racked a barleywine I made to a keg too soon because I was going on vacation. Fermentation wasn't near done, as it turns out. I also dry-hopped it. When I went to check the pressure, the relief valve clogged with hops. Same thing with both fittings. I finally unscrewed one of the fittings which promptly launched itself into the basement ceiling. It's a good thing my head was not in the way. Later, I took it outside to do the same thing. The fitting launched to the height of my two-story house.

sunvalleylaw
November 5th, 2011, 01:54 PM
Hi Guys! Reviving this old thead as it seemed to be the most active recent homebrew thread I could find. I am returning to homebrewing after a pretty fair absence. I have been an extract (dry preferred often) brewer since the 90's but quit in the mid 00's due to kids, etc.

I am getting set to brew up a Black Double (or double black?) IPA this weekend. As per usual for me, I am combining some ideas/recipes to get there. This is what I have:

Specialty Grains to steep before boil:

.5 lbs Crystal 80L
.5 lbs. Chocolate Malt
.25 lbs Black Patent Malt
.25 lbs Roasted Barley

Malts/Fermentable Sugars:

7 lbs. darker mixed LME from Williams Brewing Scottish Ale kit
3 lbs. Muntons Plaine Extra Light DME

Hops:

English Fuggle and Golding pellet hops (KCF 125 Williams Scottish Ale kit hops), bittering
1 oz. US Goldings leaf, bittering 1
1 oz. Chinook Leaf, Bittering 2
1 oz. Willamette leaf, Flavoring 1
1 oz. Cascade leaf, Flavoring 2
1 oz. Cascade leaf, Aroma

Hops schedule:
Bittering 1 added after returning to boil after adding LME and DME
Bittering 2 added after another 15 min.
Flavoring added after 50 min. (add Irish Moss)
Add Aroma hops after another 8 or so min. (58 or so total so far)
Boil 2 more min and remove from heat.

Yeast:

1 package Wyeast 1056 American Ale
I have another package of 1728 Williams Scottish I was considering pitching as well, but it is past date and does not seem to be activating after a couple hours.

I am going for something like a Oskar Blues Gordon's ale blackened up and hopped up. Or like a "Back in Black IPA, but pumped up in original gravity. I like Ruination, I like Seven Seas Balls Deep double IPA (though it needs more hops to balance out all that malt), and like the color and flavor added by blackening an IPA with black patent.

I can bump up the black patent or barley, and am open to suggestions on my hopping schedule. I have not dry hopped before, and am not so comfortable doing so as I worry about contamination after pitching.

I will use a larger (8 gal I think) plastic primary with airlock, and rack to glass secondary. Probably unneeded basic info but since I have not done this in a couple years, just kinda reminding myself what worked in the past.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

sunvalleylaw
November 5th, 2011, 08:58 PM
Brewing under way, and adjustments being made on the fly as always. ;) I am thinking I am going to add the Cascade flavoring hops 5 min. early at 45 min, rather than 50, then the Willamette at 50 and remaining Cascade aroma hops at 58 min, just before taking it off the boil. Not gonna pitch the scottish yeast as it didn't poof up. But the Wyeast 1056 poofed up nice and big and hopefully will do the job.

In honor of the upcoming ski season, this Double Black IPA, (or Black Double IPA) is going to be called: "Double Black Diamond Ale"!!

Beerman
November 6th, 2011, 06:17 PM
I brewed for 9 years and stopped due to moving, job and just not enough time. But, a friend started and I got the bug again. Might start back.
I'm a huge fan of very hoppy brews like Racer 5, Arrogant Bastard and the like and homebrews that are hoppy are easy.

brewmandan
November 6th, 2011, 09:36 PM
i've been homebrewing for about 9-10 years now. brewed up a batch of red wheat lager yesterday.

sunvalleylaw
November 7th, 2011, 11:00 AM
Bump! Well my batch started bubbling nicely in the airlock, then started to poof up the lid enough to make me think it was going to blow its top. (temp had gone up to abut 74 or so from about 70 too.) I was using a primary bucket that does not have a lid that will fit the standard blowoff tubing I have used, so had to figure something out. I used my bottling bucket tubing instead like this:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/sunvalleylaw/IMG_0510.jpg

The lid stayed on overnight, and it is settling in again at about 70 with steady but slower offgassing. Since my Original Gravity (OG) came out so high (measured at 1.091 if it was an accurate measurement), I wish I had thought to use a starter for the yeast. But the pack I used was nice and puffed up and seemed ready to go. I will give it a good 10 to 14 days in the primary and hope I get all I can out of the fermentation. I am also thinking I will dryhop this batch too with likely some Cascade or Chinook hops if I can get some. I have not done that before, but think it might work well in this beer, and give it another layer of hop aroma.

I would welcome any thoughts from you brewers that have been more active (Marnold, Brewmandan, anyone else?) about what I did already and re: any thoughts about what I can do from here on this batch. It is fun to do this again. I really like the big 8 gal kettle I borrowed for boiling too. Much easier to use for a near full batch boil than my little 5.5 gal. stainless.