Strat Bridge Insert Problem

[D-Ops]

http://debijo77.webs.com/jagPics/stratBridge.jpg

I've recently bought a MIM Classic Player 50's Strat. I want to install a block to disable the tremolo but I've run into a problem.

The inserts that hold the 2-point bridge pivot pins were not installed flush to the body (see attached). In particular, the one on the bass side protrudes so high that the bridge is prevented from laying perfectly flat on the guitar body.

I need advice/suggestions - I'd like to perform the block-conversion myself.

Does anyone know, for certain, how those inserts are applied? Are they just hammered in? Any adhesive used?

Thanks :)

D-Ops

[tremoloman]

Hello!

I had one of the inserts on an American Deluxe come loose and start moving up and down causing tuning problems. Mine became so loose it was able to almost fall out without any sort of wiggling.

I'm no expert, but I put some wood glue around the pivot, hammered it in gently, and it's been solid as a rock for 6 years and counting.

I spoke to my local dealer and he explained Fender just hammers them in. Since the wood had contracted a bit in the winter due to lack of moisture, it became loose.

Good luck!

[Bloozcat]

The inserts usually have vertical splines on the outside diameter of the insert. The whole is drilled so that the insert fits very snuggly. Then the insert is pressed in or tapped in using a nylon punch or a glass faced hammer as tremoloman indicated. I prefer to use an arbor press because I happen to have one that I use for installing frets. The other method will work fine if you're slow and careful.

Getting the bridge plate to sit completely flush with the body may be problematic as the knurled collar on the top of the insert is a larger diameter than the splined section. You have to remove both studs and counter sink the holes to the depth that corresponds with the thickness of the collar to correct this.

To remove the inserts you'll have to fashion a puller of sorts. You can do this using a large 1/2" socket (std. length or deep well depending on the bolt length), a bolt with the same threads as the insert, a nut with the same thread as the bolt, and a washer. The hole in the washer would have to be the same size or slightly larger than the bolt. The socket would sit over the stud with the open side down, the washer would sit on top of the socket, and the bolt would go down through the nut, the washer and socket and thread into the insert. You'll have to choose a bolt that will thread all the way into the insert with enough thread on the bolt above the socket and washer to accomodate the nut. Hold the socket a firmly and turn the nut clockwise against the washer. This will pull the insert out of the hole. You'll need to have something soft between the socket and the body before you start to protect the finish as well. When I've done it I've used a thin piece of wood with a hole in it and some felt between the piece of wood and the body. It sounds complicated, but it really isn't. I could show you how to do it a lot faster than it took to type this. It's just a question of having the tools to do it and the confidence to try it.

Edited to clarify insert extraction procedure.

[DeanEVO_Dude]

tremoloman:
I had a Squier Standard with the two-point bridge and the sleves came loose, what I did was:
Aquired small pieces of hardwood (a guy I work with does cabinetry work) they were about 6-8" long and about 1/4" square (the size does not matter you will see, but you can also make trem-blocks outa 'em). Then with a razor knife or exacto knife, I shaved slivers off as thin as I could get them. Then I used wood glue (Elmers, etc.) and put a couple in the holes for the sleves - glued to the side (yes, they will, for the most part be flat and the walls of the holes rounded...), once the glue has become tacky enough to hold them slivers of wood, I then installed the sleves (pounded them in gently) using a hammer and a scrap piece of wood. Worked like a champ... just be sure there are no cracks in the wood between the bridge pin holes and the pickup/trem cavities, those must be fixed before you can do this, or they will become loose again. Good luck.

[archtop]

Hi Folks!
Not sure if anyone here needs to remove the bushing, but hopefully someone will find this useful... I had to remove the bushings yesterday to install a regular trem system in this old Affinity Squire body. Here's some pics which are self explanatory. Note, the bolt is metric, M6. Also the screwdriver is turned clockwise (as if tightening) in order to remove the bushings.

http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/thum_118084c90fe1caa120.jpg (http://www.thefret.net/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1769)
http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/thum_118084c90fe4041673.jpg (http://www.thefret.net/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1770)
http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/thum_118084c90fe5d53d64.jpg (http://www.thefret.net/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1771)
http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/thum_118084c90fe7cc3377.jpg (http://www.thefret.net/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1772)
http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/thum_118084c90fe9db0a59.jpg (http://www.thefret.net/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1773)
http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/thum_118084c90feb99d862.jpg (http://www.thefret.net/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1774)

[Commodore 64]

Nice post archtop. I used a 1/2 socket and some fender washers on my Jackson, but that wood bridge jobby you made is pretty slick.

[archtop]

Nice post archtop. I used a 1/2 socket and some fender washers on my Jackson, but that wood bridge jobby you made is pretty slick.


Thanks Commodore. I looked in the off-cuts box and found that piece which did the job exactly. I have a roll of self-adhesive felt which comes in handy for cushioning the contact surfaces (also tarts up the jig!).