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View Full Version : Which bridge will fit?



grungeiceman
June 25th, 2010, 07:39 PM
I have a 2000 Squier infinity strat made in indonesia, and was wondering what gfs bridges will fit in it. This was my first guitar bought it new 10 years ago. Sorry if there has already been a thread about this. Thank you!

Zip
June 25th, 2010, 09:15 PM
I think this one (http://store.guitarfetish.com/minmeimstupt.html) will work.

markb
June 25th, 2010, 11:18 PM
That one'll do.

This one (http://store.guitarfetish.com/wistsatrfial.html) will too if you can drill straight.

guitargirl
June 25th, 2010, 11:58 PM
I think this one (http://store.guitarfetish.com/minmeimstupt.html) will work.

I think so too.
guitar manufacturer--(www.guitar-china.com)

Bloozcat
June 28th, 2010, 08:02 AM
One word of caution:

If memory serves, the Affinity body is thinner than a standard Strat body. What this means to you is that a standard bridge, whether it be made for a Mexican or Asian Strat, will have a trem block that will be too long for the Affinity body thickness. The result is that the trem block will protrude out of the back side tremolo cavity by about 1/8" or so.

You'll need a body that is 1-3/4" thick (standard) for the trem block to sit inside the cavity properly.

You can make it work, but it'll require milling the block down a bit (or if you have a lot of patience and a steady hand, grinding & filing it down).

bigoldron
June 29th, 2010, 11:23 AM
One word of caution:

If memory serves, the Affinity body is thinner than a standard Strat body. What this means to you is that a standard bridge, whether it be made for a Mexican or Asian Strat, will have a trem block that will be too long for the Affinity body thickness. The result is that the trem block will protrude out of the back side tremolo cavity by about 1/8" or so.

You'll need a body that is 1-3/4" thick (standard) for the trem block to sit inside the cavity properly.

You can make it work, but it'll require milling the block down a bit (or if you have a lot of patience and a steady hand, grinding & filing it down).

That's what I ran into with the one I had. It didn't take much, but the block had to be ground down a little. I left the back cover off too, which helped.

Duffy
June 30th, 2010, 05:34 AM
If the block is going to stick out, what I would do is take it to an auto Machine Shop and ask them to mill it down so that it won't touch when you put the cover back on.

They might do this free. Very minor, non technical, loose specification, eyeball job that can be done with little set up time to outstanding effect.

Way better looking approach than using a gringer and grinding it down yourself, in all reasonable likelyhood. A home grinding job would probably look like a hack job, possibly uneven, etc.

Not that some skilled guys here on the forum can't do an acceptable job of doing this with a bench grinder and a fresh'ish wheel; but the average dude probably would be benefited by taking it to a machine shop and letting a professional do a top of the line job that will look outstanding, just like a factory job or better.

Not to sound overly exacting, I hope this idea is interesting to at least someone. It is realistic and inexpensive, if not free.