Samick Les Paul Honeyburst String Through Body

[Commodore 64]

There's one at the local GC. It's a LP style, double bound. It's a Samick Artist Series, prior to Greg Bennett. It's used for $179. I played it for a while, the action is so low it's INSANE, I'd probably raise it, because you just look at it and it frets the note. Anyways, no string buzzing, no fretting out. It's really cool looking, and a tad beat up (needs a new switch) but still sounded pretty nice through the AC4TV I was testing it on.

Anyways, I can't find a damn thing googling for a Samick Artist Series with a string-through body. It has a tune-o-matic style bridge, but no stopbar, it's string through like a tele...which reminded me of Eric's new Godin (e.g. awesomeness).

It can't be purchased till October 24th, because it just came in this week, and they gotta wait 20 days. That didn't stop me, as I put a down payment on it already, so it's waiting for me behind the counter.

[FrankenFretter]

There's one at the local GC. It's a LP style, double bound. It's a Samick Artist Series, prior to Greg Bennett. It's used for $179. I played it for a while, the action is so low it's INSANE, I'd probably raise it, because you just look at it and it frets the note. Anyways, no string buzzing, no fretting out. It's really cool looking, and a tad beat up (needs a new switch) but still sounded pretty nice through the AC4TV I was testing it on.

Anyways, I can't find a damn thing googling for a Samick Artist Series with a string-through body. It has a tune-o-matic style bridge, but no stopbar, it's string through like a tele...which reminded me of Eric's new Godin (e.g. awesomeness).

It can't be purchased till October 24th, because it just came in this week, and they gotta wait 20 days. That didn't stop me, as I put a down payment on it already, so it's waiting for me behind the counter.

That sounds like a killer deal, C64! Good for you. Hope to see some pics after 10/24!

[Spudman]

That's going to be a great guitar. Samick makes a LOT of guitars and do a very good job of it. Seems like the price is more than right. Congrats on your Halloween present.

[Commodore 64]

http://lucky-cricket.com/files/bodyfrontbelowyi5.jpg

It looks a lot like that, but string through. So I guess it's not double bound, it's just bound on top.

I have spent damn near an hour googling, and I can't find any mention of a String-through Samick Artist Series LP.

[msteeln]

Man, if your Samick looks and sounds half as good as all the above, just shut up about strings thru too!
What a score!! :applause

[Eric]

Wow, that's pretty sweet and at an awesome price. Congrats!

[Commodore 64]

Finally got some pics of the Samick. I replaced the ferrules in the front and back, some of the ferrules in the front had sunken in, causing the strings to start cutting into the cap.

http://lucky-cricket.com/files/SamickLP.JPG
http://lucky-cricket.com/files/samickLP1.JPG
http://lucky-cricket.com/files/SamickLP_back.JPG

I raised the action a hair, to address some string buzzing. Set the intonation with no troubles. I have a book by Dan Erlewine, How to Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great. In it, he details some issues with Gibson-style guitars. One of the things he notes, is that when folks screw the stop-tail way down it causes a lot of pressure on the tune-o-matic bridge. So much so that the bridges start to flex, and sink in the middle, so the radius of the strings does not match the radius of the fretboard.

This Samick does not have a stop tail, being string thru. So as you might expect, there's a lot of pressure on the bridge. It is concave in the middle. I'm not sure this is a huge problem right now. The guitar intonates and plays great, and I don't have any issues with string height that bother me. But perhaps this is why you don't see a lot of string thru guitars with tune-o-matic style bridges. And it may also be why Samick doesn't appear to have made this model for very long.

I cleaned up the pots and switch with some DeOxit, everything is working well, no crackle, static or popping, so I'm quite pleased.

[Tig]

Veeeery nice, C-64!
I like!
http://images4.wikia.nocookie.net/muppet/images/7/70/Arte1.jpg

[Eric]

Looks nice. Congrats!


I raised the action a hair, to address some string buzzing. Set the intonation with no troubles. I have a book by Dan Erlewine, How to Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great. In it, he details some issues with Gibson-style guitars. One of the things he notes, is that when folks screw the stop-tail way down it causes a lot of pressure on the tune-o-matic bridge. So much so that the bridges start to flex, and sink in the middle, so the radius of the strings does not match the radius of the fretboard.

This Samick does not have a stop tail, being string thru. So as you might expect, there's a lot of pressure on the bridge. It is concave in the middle. I'm not sure this is a huge problem right now. The guitar intonates and plays great, and I don't have any issues with string height that bother me. But perhaps this is why you don't see a lot of string thru guitars with tune-o-matic style bridges. And it may also be why Samick doesn't appear to have made this model for very long.
Interesting stuff. In that case, what does he recommend for a tailpiece height? How do you figure it out?


I cleaned up the pots and switch with some DeOxit, everything is working well, no crackle, static or popping, so I'm quite pleased.
How do you get in there to use it on the pots and switch? Did you get into the electronics cavity or just spray it from the top? Mine have stopped crackling, but I think it's from use, not from the electronics cleaner I sprayed in there.

[duhvoodooman]

Sweet looking! Is that real wood grain on the top or a "photo-flame" finish of some sort? If the former, then it's an even better deal! :thumbsup

[Commodore 64]

I don't know if it's a photoflame. I'm not sure how to check. I could get a real close-up pic so you could see the "grains" though.

Regarding stop tail height, the book doesn't really say. He shows a couple photos on p.52 though.

As far as DeOxit on pots and switches. Most pots have a hole in them. I squirt some DeOxit in there and work the pot about 10-15 times. As fat as the switch, I sprayed it in from the top, since it's not an open switch.

[FrankenFretter]

Nice looking axe. That's interesting about the TOM bridge/tailpiece problem. You'd think after 50+ years of using the same combo, they'd have figured something out to remedy that. I have a Schecter that's string-through/TOM. Maybe it's time for a roller bridge on that one. That seems like it might help some.

What are your plans for the bridge problem? If you're just looking for another TOM to replace that one, I have one from my Agile that should fit, if you're interested.

[Commodore 64]

Eric: I scanned a chunk of p.52 of Erlewine's book to illustrate:
http://lucky-cricket.com/files/strings.png

Fretter: I'd be interested in the TOM, sure. We could trade if you want, I have a Compressor Pedal (Marshall ED-1), a tele bridge, a Fender MiM trem, assorted single coil PUPs (nothing high-end), and of course I can paypal you too.

[Eric]

Cool. Thanks for scanning that.

Note to self: check stop tailpiece height on Agile when you get home tonight...

[poodlesrule]

Cool. Thanks for scanning that.

Note to self: check stop tailpiece height on Agile when you get home tonight...


Ditto on my AS73.
Hmm... I just checked, and the stopbar (tailpiece) is set quite low. I never paid much attention to that area of the guitar, assuming it was set pretty much as factory. Never assume...!

[oldguy]

You might want to try it this way. Works for me.
(This is not my Agile, just a pic I grabbed from the web. This is how I do the wraptail bridge, tho.)

http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/1154ccf58696cfd3.jpg (http://www.thefret.net/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1811)

[Eric]

You might want to try it this way. Works for me.
(This is not my Agile, just a pic I grabbed from the web. This is how I do the wraptail bridge, tho.)

http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/1154ccf58696cfd3.jpg (http://www.thefret.net/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1811)
Cool -- thanks. So in that scenario, do you screw the tailpiece all the way down and then wrap the strings over the tailpiece?

[FrankenFretter]

You might want to try it this way. Works for me.
(This is not my Agile, just a pic I grabbed from the web. This is how I do the wraptail bridge, tho.)

http://www.thefret.net/imagehosting/1154ccf58696cfd3.jpg (http://www.thefret.net/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=1811)

I did the same thing with my Agile this weekend. I'll do the Tribute this weekend. I prefer the wrap to raising the tailpiece...it looks better.

[Ch0jin]

Woah. First thats a nice looking axe. Gratz on the acquisition.

Can anyone school me on the TOM bridge problem?

I have two tone-pro's equipped TOM/Stop Tail guitars and I've never really been confident enough to mess with them. (I'll build an amp from scratch, but ask me to set intonation or action and I freak out.)

From those pics I'm thinking you need to make sure the strings aren't hitting on the bridge, just the saddles, but a quick check of mine shows that on both guitars both e strings seem to just touch the bridge and the middle 4 strings miss it by a couple of mm.

One of them I converted from wrapped to "normal" because I didn't like the look of it (I even put a new tail piece on as the original has scars from the strings now) but I've noticed that guitar has the tail screwed all the way down whereas the other factory setup guitar has it raised a little.

[FrankenFretter]

Woah. First thats a nice looking axe. Gratz on the acquisition.

Can anyone school me on the TOM bridge problem?

I have two tone-pro's equipped TOM/Stop Tail guitars and I've never really been confident enough to mess with them. (I'll build an amp from scratch, but ask me to set intonation or action and I freak out.)

From those pics I'm thinking you need to make sure the strings aren't hitting on the bridge, just the saddles, but a quick check of mine shows that on both guitars both e strings seem to just touch the bridge and the middle 4 strings miss it by a couple of mm.

One of them I converted from wrapped to "normal" because I didn't like the look of it (I even put a new tail piece on as the original has scars from the strings now) but I've noticed that guitar has the tail screwed all the way down whereas the other factory setup guitar has it raised a little.

I have to admit something; I really didn't know the real reason that the top wrap was done. I actually thought that it was for more sustain ( that made sense to me, more contact with the tailpiece equals more sustain...right?). Now that I know the real reason people do it, it makes even more sense. I actually don't mind the look at all, it reminds me of the no-TOM wrap tailpieces of old (and new, I guess).

Wow, way to divert the thread. Sorry, C64.

[oldguy]

Commodore 64,
Congrats on the Samick! That's a beautiful guitar, and very well built. And did I mention it's beautiful? :thumbsup

Sorry to get OT about the bridge wrap, btw, but it does look pretty darn cool. Mojo factor increases by .41477 w/ it also.

Eric, I didn't lower mine much at all. You just need the strings to make contact w/ the saddles.

[Commodore 64]

I have to admit something; I really didn't know the real reason that the top wrap was done. I actually thought that it was for more sustain ( that made sense to me, more contact with the tailpiece equals more sustain...right?). Now that I know the real reason people do it, it makes even more sense. I actually don't mind the look at all, it reminds me of the no-TOM wrap tailpieces of old (and new, I guess).

Wow, way to divert the thread. Sorry, C64.

No worries on the diversion. I'm glad the thread has transitioned beyond HNGD, in fact. It just so happens that the same page that I scanned from Erlewine's book also discusses a the "top Wrap" a little bit.


On the 1954 Gold TOp LEs Paul, the stop bar doubled as the bridge. Pwners of '54 Les Pauls swear by that models tone and would not want a TOM bridge near their guitars. The front loaded strings wrapped over the top of the bar...Though it may look a little weird, using the top wrap on a guitar with a TOM bridge and stopbar tailpiece can give you the best of both worlds: a well coupled tailpiece with strings well clear of the bridge body.

As much as I'm quoting hsi book here, it's prudent to drop a link. It's pretty cheap on Amazon, and also comes with a bunch of plastic radius cutouts which have been useful. http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Guitar-Great-Softcover-Player/dp/0879306017

[ZMAN]

64: Have you thought about installing a stop bar on the guitar. I would say this might be a thought only if you are having "issues" with the string through.
What are type of pickups are in the guitar. Soundwise does it have some good HB Tones

[Commodore 64]

64: Have you thought about installing a stop bar on the guitar. I would say this might be a thought only if you are having "issues" with the string through.
What are type of pickups are in the guitar. Soundwise does it have some good HB Tones

No, I haven't considered a stopbar. The thing that drew me to the guitar in the first place was the string-through design. I think that is so cool (looks-wise). So I will deal with the consequences, it's just something I'll have to be aware of, since the existing TOM has clearly been affected.

As far as tones. I'm trying not to rush to judgment. I'm used to single-coils. Yes, my Ibby has 'buckers, but it's a jazz box, so they are pretty docile. My Jackson...I prefer it on the single coils, and I don't play it very often these days. Having just been asked to be in a band, they prefer the Tele, as it is a different beast than the other guitars in the band (Samick SG and Super strat both with 'buckers), so that's what I've been playing mostly.

This Samick appears to have the stock PUPs. I'm not sure what to listen for, I know that if I dime the guitar knobs they get pretty dirty and they clean up quite a bit if I back off a few degrees.

All that said, since I got it, I've discovered a blown speaker in my Peavey Bandit. I wanted to leave the Bandit at the rehearsal place, so I swapped out the speaker with the stock speaker in my Blues Jr. BTW, it sounds freakin' fantastic in that Peavey. But the upshot is, the only working amp I have at home right now, is my Killer Ant. I love the Killer Ant (through a Weber sig12S), because I like dirt at low-volumes at home. But it doesn't do much clean, lol.

So, I need to get a new speaker for my Blues Jr., and really put some time into listening to the Samick as I play it. If I dime the Killer Ant, and the volume knobs on the Samick, I can pretty much play the guitar without a pick, with hammer ons and pull-offs, heh. So that's kinda new to me. And cool.

[Tig]

So, I need to get a new speaker for my Blues Jr.,

Be sure to give this guide from Billm Audio a read...
The Right Speaker for your Blues Junior (http://billmaudio.com/wp/?page_id=295)

[Eric]

No, I haven't considered a stopbar. The thing that drew me to the guitar in the first place was the string-through design. I think that is so cool (looks-wise).
+1

[duhvoodooman]

Be sure to give this guide from Billm Audio a read...
The Right Speaker for your Blues Junior (http://billmaudio.com/wp/?page_id=295)
Based on that article, I ended up putting an Eminence Cannabis Rex in my Blues Junior and have been very, very pleased with it. Smoothed out the treble harshness that the Jensen C12N speaker had under some conditions, and gave the amp a better bottom end, too.

[Duffy]

To tell if it is a photo finish you need to look real close at the individual grain markings. If it is contact paper or whatever photo finish is, it will have a lot of little dots that combine from a slight distance to blend into the color we see. These little dots are usually perceptible with the naked eye when looking closely with plenty of light. Otherwise use a magnifying glass and you will definitely be able to see the dots if it has them - this would be the conclusive test. If it looks like wood grain striations and not a lot of little dots, it is real wood.

That finish looks so striking I'm thinking that it may be a photo finish, because a natural flammed maple top like that would be very nice and probably more expensive than a more mild looking one.

I have a phone number of a guy that has been selling Samicks for many years. If you want his number you can give him a call. He works at a quality music store. Let me know if you want to give him a call and see if he recalls anything about your particular guitar.

It is definitely a nice looking guitar and Samick has been known to make some good guitars. I have a real nice Samick Jumbo acoustic electric.

[Duffy]

Commodore 64,
I found a forum that has a Samick Guitar Club sub forum, if you are interested in finding out more about your guitar, they might have a lot of combined knowledge.

Here is the link if you are interested:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/guitar-owners-clubs/232639-samick-club.html

Hope you find this useful. For all I know it could be a "tired" club.


I see you are already doing some upgrades and maintenance on your new Samick LP. Sounds like you are going to turn it into a real nice guitar. There is no other feeling exactly like building up an inexpensive guitar into a really awesome guitar that you can be proud of. Especially when it turns out real real good.

The last deeply discounted guitar I bought is an awesome NOS Ibanez SZ320 Gold Top with Duncan/Ibanez open coil full size humbuckers. It doesn't need any upgrades.

One upgrade I have discovered that has improved every guitar I have them on is - locking tuners. They really help keep the guitar in tune, sometimes for really surprisingly long periods of time. I also use powdered graphite in the nut grooves and on the bridge saddles, and this also facilitates tuning and greatly reduces string sticking and jumping when fine tuning. The graphite lets the tuner pull the string thru the tight spots without sticking.

I hope you get some good information on the Samick Guitar Owners Club.

[Commodore 64]

Thanks Duffy. My favorite local music store is a Samick dealer. I've developed a pretty good relationship there, taking lessons, and chatting with the manager. The manager is who asked me to be in his band (first rehearsal was Sunday, really cool).

I will see what he has to say. Also, I made a post over at TDPRI in that thread you linked. Thanks.

Re: Locking tuners, nut & stuff. Locking tuners are sweet. I really need to get a set to try. As far as nut and frets...I just got some nut files, a crowning file, some fret protectors, and a big quartz polymer sanding block. I've bookmarked Ron Kirns fret leveling tutorial (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-technical/201556-fret-leveling-yer-tele-101-a.html) and am going to refret an old Oscar Schmidt acoustic I have here (half the frets have been removed already)...After that, assuming I don't butcher it...I'll be ready to start honing my skillz.

Eric's former $100 SX tele and my $45 Epiphone Strat will be my first patients...

[Kazz]

Good luck C64.

[wingsdad]

2 cents: A stopbar would defeat/undo the basic purpose of the string-thru body design: maximize direct contact of the string 'anchor ends' with the body wood and minimize anchoring strings to metal, as with a Telecaster.

[Commodore 64]

OK. I have a line on a Hellatone Celestion Vintage 30 for 50 bucks on CL for my Blues Jr. I'm gonna go ahead and do that, but I've been eyeballin' the Cannabis Rex for the Blues Jr. for a few months now. At some point, I'll probably get one of those too.

Hellatone is just what Avatar calls a Celestion that they've broken in already.

[Tig]

OK. I have a line on a Hellatone Celestion Vintage 30 for 50 bucks on CL for my Blues Jr.
Hellatone is just what Avatar calls a Celestion that they've broken in already.

I'd buy one for full price. $50 is a steal!

[Commodore 64]

Got the Hellatone last night. Hope to put it in this weekend.

Also, the Samick dealer looked up my guitar in his old catalog, it's a 1999/2000 model, and he claims it is a full-on flamed maple top.

[Duffy]

Nice.