Refinishing Wood Floors

[kidsmoke]

Taking things WAY off topic....


Wondering who among the assembled has experience in this regard?
I've managed to make it these many years without having to perform this task, but it looks like It's inevitable.

I'm planning to rent a drum sander and knock out a couple of rooms, and I'd like someone who's been through it to have a chance to share their knowledge.

Thanks in advance!

[Eric]

Hmm...I've had a couple of friends refinish their wood floors before, but that's as close as I come to having done it. I know a drum sander was involved.

Super helpful, right??

[kidsmoke]

Hmm...I've had a couple of friends refinish their wood floors before, but that's as close as I come to having done it. I know a drum sander was involved.

Super helpful, right??

Exactly where I'm at, and why I've avoided it all these years!!

[Spudman]

I've done the whole thing myself and my floors were dark brown, almost walnut, from neglect and abuse before I bought the house. Now they are a beautiful golden oak.

I learned a lot.

If you are only doing one section of the house make sure to seal it from the rest of the house. Tape over any air vents, erect a plastic wall at the border between work zone and non-work zone, and remove EVERYTHING from the part of the house that is getting sanded. You'll also need to get a smaller hand held belt sander for sanding the zone next to baseboards and thresholds.

Patience is your friend. The drum sander can be brutally unforgiving should your concentration lapse. It's nearly impossible to repair the divots that the sander can make if it rests in one spot. It doesn't really matter if you belt sand the edges first or last. I like last because then I can match the rest of the floor and there will be less to sand as well. The drum gets pretty close.

Start with 60 or 80 grit. Buy plenty of paper. The old finish will clog it quickly. After you have done the whole floor to your satisfaction in heavy grit progress to a finer grit and then finer again after you've done the whole floor at each grit. Smooth and tight is what you will be looking for on your floor's wood grain. Coarse grit will leave it fuzzy. You want smooth. Now do all the edges and spots that you'll use the belt sander for. Same with grit progression too. Be patient.

Vacuum. Vacuum. Vacuum. Vacuum. Vacuum. Vacuum. And then vacuum some more. You should be able to then take a damp cloth like a t shirt and wipe the whole floor. You are looking for minimal dust. Let the floor dry and wipe with the cleaned damp shirt again. Then do it again. Check all your cracks for dust residue and remove with a vacuum. Then wipe with the cleaned again shirt one more time. Be patient.

Breathing: wear a really good filter and clean or replace often. A hat is essential and goggles are great as well. Don't forget the patience.

I used a water based floor seal/finish and they are easy to apply...with patience...and being methodical. You'll need a foam applicator for the end of a broomstick (see Home Depot or Lowes). If you are going to use a stain and have really porous wood expect a drastic color change. Tighter wood like maple or oak wont change so much. Find an inconspicuous spot to do a test on first before starting the whole floor. For the stain a small t-shirt rag on the end of a sponge mop works well. Check it often for dust and dirt as you are staining. Get a paint pan for getting the stain onto the applicator. Be patient.

Once you have the whole floor stained. Let it dry...and be patient. This could take 1 or 2 days. Then wipe the whole floor with a clean t shirt rag. You don't want any dust. Oh, vacuum everything first. NO DUST.

Now you are ready to apply the finish. Think of this step as being the PATIENT methodical full coverage painter step. You want an even finish, no bubbles. You may see some, but watch them, and after 1/2 hour they should be gone. Don't do much until you've checked that they are disappearing. Slowly and with a slight overlap apply the finish all in the same direction over the WHOLE floor. Let dry - be patient. Check to make sure your applicator isn't getting dirty. Next day take some fine sand paper and knock down all the bumps in the finish over the whole floor. Get your clean damp t-shirt and wipe all dust off. Then do your next, second, layer of finish. Let dry. Sand then wipe clean again. Last day finally do your last, third, coat.

Congratulations! You're done. LET THE FLOOR DRY for 2 more days then move back in. Go to a fabric store and buy a foot or two of felt and apply it to the bottom of your furniture's feet with contact cement.

During the whole process - be patient!

[Tig]

Sound like even more work than what I'll be doing the next few weeks. :eek: I'll remain happily ignorant of floor refinishing, which helps you none at all!

Our house came with some cheap "washed out beach" engineered flooring that we are replacing with something warmer with wide planks (also laminate "photo top" engineered).

Old:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/5321315014_03cb7d0503_z.jpg

New:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5129/5321315016_94fc13859a_z.jpg

[Retro Hound]

Spudman really got it. Be patient.

They now have sanders with built in vacuums. That would have been great.

I used denatured alcohol instead of water to clean after sanding. It dries faster and can get you light-headed (might be bonus for some). I used a paint edger to apply the finish for a real smooth even finish. Be patient though. Uploading a pic didn't work. Try this: http://www.toolspotting.net/edger.jpg
It works really well, and you can get them on a pole, but I just got down on my hands and knees. You don't push down on the edger at all, just let gravity do the work.

Oh, and ours had been carpeted and whoever put down the pad had gone crazy with the stapler. I had to patch about 10,000 holes after pulling out 5,000 staples. If the boards have shrunk, you can use some wood filler to fill in the gaps (and staple holes). The stuff I used was almost liquid. You put some down on the floor and use a squeegee to spread it. Then you get to sand again, but just with a hand sander, not the drum. Then wipe it down again. Be patient.

Our floor is now a beautiful red oak. Don't forget to be patient.

[kidsmoke]

Jeez guys, could you be more specific???

THANK YOU. That's an excellent manual. Exactly what I hoped for. Just called and got the rental quote, looks like this weekend is gonna be a long one. That's ok though, both the Bears and The Patriots have a bye week.....

Can't imagine what anyone could add to what these guys have, but feel free!

[Retro Hound]

Here's some photos:

http://inlinethumb62.webshots.com/46781/2675268020010367626S600x600Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2675268020010367626bpwslc)

http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/48000/2020094510010367626S600x600Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2020094510010367626ScjiTw)
If you're going to do something like the above shot to keep dust out, add another support in the middle. This one sags too much. :thwap

http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/16693/2125408750010367626S600x600Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2125408750010367626QAhjjT)

http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/13125/2410418080010367626S600x600Q85.jpg (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2410418080010367626gOqBuA)

[kidsmoke]

Ok Spud, my girl read your manual and thinks you should just plan a trip to Chicago. All the authentic mexican you can eat, and a gig at a northside tavern.....what d ya say??


Thanks again. You spelled it out very clearly. Retro, I appreciate your input as well. I'll let you know how it goes.

[Spudman]

Tio
Send me a ticket and I'll be right there. I've got plenty of friends in Chicago and I'd me more than happy to help with your floor. SLC to ORD.