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warren0728
February 11th, 2006, 11:26 AM
I think an Ebay "how-to" thread would be a great idea under the "Open Mic" forum, and suggest that you spearhead that operative. I will be happy to monitor the thread, and offer any assistance that I can. ;)

On a recommendation from nelskie i am starting an ebay how-to thread. I am getting ready to start buying and selling on ebay (not just music stuff....i have a lot of antique cameras and photographic memorabilia).

Ebay has excellent resources for sellers and i have them all bookmarked for reference...here's a starting point...

http://pages.ebay.com/education/

... but i think this thread should be more on the tips, tricks, techniques that you have used when dealing with ebay. For instance, how to you keep track of all your auctions (assuming you have several going at once), do you use a spreadsheet, a simple list, etc.

What are your thoughts on length of auctions, buy it now prices,
etc.

Well....what are your thoughts?...

ww

Nelskie
February 11th, 2006, 12:03 PM
On the topic of monitoring your auctions, Ebay has a tool associated with each personal account where you can monitor all of your active auctions. You can instantly see things like the # of bids, who is bidding on it, and other vital auction information. Your auction items automatically go onto that screen as soon as you list an item; and, stay on there for as long as you want after the auction. There really isn't a need to monitor your auction outside of Ebay, unless you want to.

I usually run my auctions at (5) or (7) day intervals, though you can go as short as (1) day, or as long as (10). There could be other intervals that I am unaware of, as I normally am using the auction lengths already stated. Those intervals will allow for adequate exposure time, and usually, will end in a successful sale.

Listing an item with a Buy It Now price can sometimes be tricky, though it is an effective sales tool if used correctly. It also costs a bit more to list an item as BIN. My two rules of thumb for listing stuff BIN is if you're offering a deal that you KNOW will sell fast, or on an item that is in high demand. Otherwise, a standard pricing auction will suit most of your needs just fine. In many cases, not using a BIN price will result in a higher auction price. I sold my Squier Tele II P-90 for about what I paid for it ($224.00), and had originally thought about listing it for a BIN price of $200. That extra $24 more than paid for the auction fees, and gave me an extra $8 in my pocket. That's a set of strings and a handful of new picks!

The best advice I can give any new Ebay'ers is this: have fun with it. Yes, it's a business, and yes, it can be disappointing not get what you expect price-wise for your item. Like guitar-playing, you get better at as you do it more often. But I've found that keeping a positive, open attitude has let me to enjoy the process of Ebay'ing just as much as using the $$ I make from my sales to buy new gear. ;)

Nelskie
February 12th, 2006, 01:25 PM
In light of a recent post regarding a fellow Fret.Net member's dissatisfactory experience with both Ebay & Pay Pal, I would like make the following statement concerning any and all information that I post on this particular thread, or anywhere else on this forum, in regards to either of these services.

In no way am I promoting the use of Ebay, or Pay Pal, nor condoning the ethics or validity of their end-user agreements. My suggestion to any Fret.Net member considering the use of Ebay, or Pay Pal, is to thoroughly read and understand the user agreements of each. As well, to be aware that there are, indeed, risks involved to buying & selling items through internet-based services such as Ebay. If you feel even the slightest bit wary, or uneasy about the processes that involved with either, very simply: do not participate.

The absolute LAST thing I would want to have happen in for a fellow Fret.Net member to get involved with Ebay / Pay Pal as a result of what they would read or post here, and then to have an unsatisfactory buying / selling experience. Since there is a chance that could happen, I'll make a suggestion that we seek the advice of our forum administrators as to how to best approach this situation. Perhaps it's a matter best left out of the arena of public discussion?

Justaguyin_nc
February 12th, 2006, 01:49 PM
I would hate to see these posts taken out of the site of the arena.. I think it's a great discussion on the do's and don't of buying online.. and makes people aware of what can go wrong... Nelskie you make excellent points and I was an avid deep ebay advocate... I hate giving it up..I ran into the 'bad" experience and thats that... But to those that "never" hit this point it's a wonderful way to buy and sell.. "WITH RISK" that someday you will be caught with your pants down.. as long as aperson can live with that it's fine.. I just don't think I can...

Myles
February 12th, 2006, 07:55 PM
Indeed I have had well over 50 positive experiences buying products on ebay using paypal, but I have also had a couple bad experiences. I rarely buy anything worth more than a 20-25 dollars on ebay and as such any bad experience I have ever had has never really affected me financially. Over time I've slowly started buying products in the hundreds of dollars and continued to have positive experiences.

What I have found:
1. Store-like sellers that have sold 1000s of products will never try to intentially burn you, but miscommunication can result in bad expereinces. Basically just make sure to email them a lot with any concerns and if your product seems to be taking longer than it should. Follow up and keep communication lines constantly open and things should go very smoothly.

2. Even if a seller seems to have a very high positive rating check what's been happening the last few months. If they seem to be getting some negative reviews the last while email them before bidding and inquire. If they are hestitant to talk about it then you shouldn't buy from them.

3. Read everything. If something seems to good to be true, it probably is. People will do silly things like sell a picture or a guide to your product rather than the product itself. For example, if you are buying a 200 dollar product and you find it for 120 bucks then its probably fine, but if you find it for 20 dollars then you better read over what exactly they are selling again.

4. If the seller has a trade rating below 10 then you have to see it as almost a gamble. If the deal is good enough that you are willing to lose your money for the chance at getting it then go for it, but I don't recommend spending a large sum of money.

5. Use the Buy out feature. Not only with this guarantee you win the auction, but it will also mean your seller is going to be satisfied with the money that he recieved for his auction. (after all he choose the value) A lot of times you will get burned because an auction ended up not making as much money as the seller had hoped and they just don't want to take the loss. Buyout's prevent this.

That's all I can think of for now. I highly recommend that you have fun with ebay and paypal and buy small collectible like items for a while that you'd enjoy having, but that don't cost a substantial sum of money. Just get familiar with the system before you start taking out a second mortgage on your house for that limited edition item.

Spudman
February 12th, 2006, 09:01 PM
Good tips there Vitalmyles.

I've got around 300 transactions and a feedback score of 245 (99.6%) on Ebay.

My advice is to read the auction text (all of it)closely, look carefully at the photo's (having experience with what you are buying helps so you know the troubles to look for like finish cracks and repair work done on guitar necks, bodies, etc.) and ask specific questions. If you ask is "everything all right with it?" the seller can say "as far as I know yes." This allows them to sell something flawed intentionally or not. If instead you ask "is there a crack in the neck pocket finish, do the electronics work as they are supposed to, are the pickups stock?" These types of questions are specific and if they are falsified intentionally or otherwise with your saved emails you can get a refund through buyer protection provided by Ebay or Paypal. Ask questions.

Bidding tip: You guys can't use this to out bid me or share with everyone that you know. OK? Don't bid even dollars or at $.50 intervals. Everyone does. Bid in 6's. Instead of $5.50 bid $5.66 or $6.66. That way the next bid will have to go over the next even dollar mark to win and for some reason people are reluctant to do that.
Also if you really want an item - snipe it. Wait until the last moment that you can get your bid in usually between 30-60 seconds left and for the amount that you are willing to spend. That way other bidders won't have enough time to incrementally try to outbid you.

Don't forget to figure shipping into the total you are going to pay for your item. I've shipped guitars to each coast and have a good idea of what shipping actually costs. Stay away from guys charging $40-$60 for shipping a guitar. Ground rates from one coast to the other is around $25 or less for a boxed guitar without a hard case. Slightly higher with a case.

I've only had one bad deal. Someone with a -5 feedback tried to shaft me. They are no longer on Ebay.Rule: Don't sell to people with negative feedback. You can set your preferences to allow only bidders with good feedback.

Watch out for emails asking you to allow the sender to be added to your bidders list. This is "fishing" and they will hack into your account if you reply and possibly cost you money or steal from you. It is illegal.

If you are comfortable with and the seller will allow it use US Postal money orders. It takes more time but if you get shafted it becomes a Federal Offense because the transaction took place through the mail.

Gotta go now and check My Ebay. Ta ta.