Photo essay of a "level & crown" (fret work)

[Dreadman]

A while ago I picked up a pre-owned (but unplayed) semi-hollowbody and it had the worst factory fret job I've ever seen - high and low spots everywhere. I got it for a real good price and liked it otherwise so I decided to keep it and do a level & crown the frets. This is the same procedure that's done to repair a guitar with grooves in the frets and/or flat fret tops from bending (both of which affect intonation). Usual cost is around $100-$150. It can typically be done once or twice before fret replacement is necessary. Original fret height and personal preference play into it.

This won't really be enough to teach the whole process but it'll be a good primer and if nothing else you'll be able to discuss this procedure well with a luthier or repair person if you ever have it done. The following work is called a "level and crown". I'll level the frets so they're all the same height then use a fret crowning file to make the tops round again. This procedure is identical for acoustics and electrics.

The first step was examining the fretboard by playing every note. It seemed that the 6th, 11th, & 19th frets were high and a general uneven-ness all over but it turned out that the 5th, 10th & 18th were actually low. That makes it worse. Rather than lowering a few high ones (and evening it all out) I had to lower almost all of them to the height of the few low ones. Lot of work. Okay, here we go....



Here's the guitar before - Washburn HB-30

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture001-2.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture011-1.jpg



First I removed the strings, bridge, tailpiece and studs, then lowered the pickups out of the way.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture024.jpg



Using an 18", bevel edged straightedge as a guide I adjusted the truss rod so the neck was perfectly straight without strings on it.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture033.jpg


Next I covered the fretboard with masking tape to protect the wood, then colored the fret tops with a black permanent marker.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture025.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture028.jpg


This is the fret leveler I made in the shop. It's a piece of precision machined aluminum bar with adhesive 220 grit sandpaper on both sides. It has to be perfectly flat so all the frets come out at exactly the same height.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture032.jpg


I first made a light pass with the leveler along the frets to see exactly which frets were high and low. It's kind of hard to see in this picture but the low spots are where there is still black on the frets and the shiny parts are high. The first fret is completely shiny because it was a mile high. The second fret is low in the middle and the third is high on the treble string side, etc..........This is really pretty crappy.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture036.jpg


On frets 14 - 19 you can see a lot of uneven-ness. It's not consistent with string wear, just a bad fret job. A LOT of leveling was required to get everything even.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture044.jpg


Here's another shot showing some progress. I kept going until all the frets were the same height as the lowest spot on the lowest fret (which happened to be the 5th in this case).

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture049.jpg

[Dreadman]

The next tool is a fret crowning file. It's basically an ergonomic handle with a file insert that has a concave cutting edge. The inserts come in 3 sizes, narrow, medium and jumbo - for different fret widths. Normally I'd use a medium file on these medium frets but I had to take off so much material that it would take forever so I used the jumbo insert, which will give the fret tops a wider radius (and less material has to be removed). That will also make this guitar a little easier to do slides on and it will go longer before it needs fret work again.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture055.jpg


I re-color the fret tops with the marker so I can gauge my progress. Great care must be taken not to file lower than the new top, otherwise you'll have low spots again. Crowning is tedious work. The file is pushed firmly, carefully and evenly across each fret maybe 20 or 30 times until the black becomes a very thin line and eventually disappears. I didn't get any pictures of myself filing but this is the finished job. You can see the markings on the tape that I use in the beginning to remember what's what. The straight lines indicate high spots and the X's indicate low spots.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture062.jpg


After crowning, and before removing the masking tape, I run 400 grit sandpaper vigorously over the frets, end to end, to shine them up and make them very smooth. I've used steel wool and even polished frets in the past but I'll save that for later on this guitar. Here's where we are so far.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture065.jpg


I rubbed some boiled linseed oil on the fretboard afterward to clean, preserve and enhance the wood. This fretboard wasn't very bad at all but if you look carefully at this picture you can see the results between the first 5 frets.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture067.jpg


Not that this picture looks any different from the first one but here's the finished product. I restrung it and gave it a setup and was able to get the action down to .040" (a little less than 3/64" or a little more than 1/32"). Arguably lower than is comfortable for playing. I'll raise it up a bit later but I like to see how low I can get it as a gauge of my work. I can safely say this neck is now in great shape.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/phobuk/Level%20and%20Crown/Picture068.jpg


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If anyone's interested here are the two main tools you'd need for this job:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Leveling/Fret_Fingerboard_Levelers.html
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Shaping_and_crowning/Three-in-one_Fret_File.html

[oldguy]

Dread, thanks a million for this post. This type of tech info is invaluable to those of us who are..... shall we say......... luthier challenged. :whatever:
Seriously, the explanation and photos are really appreciated, this type of project can turn a bargain ball bat into a real keeper, thanks for the time to explain it!:beer:
The links are appreciated, also, btw.

[Rocket]

Dread... you da effin' man donk!

That makes the process so clear that anyone could do a pretty good job at what most of us pay someone else to do.

What's different about acoustic L&C?

How bout a step-by-step pictorial of a basic acoustic setup like one might perform immediately after a new acquisition.

[kiteman]

I have the crowning tool you showed, it's a good investment. I did a level and crown on my agile al3000 lp copy but I leveled the frets with a diamond dusted steel plate that was made for sharpening knives.

I used it to rock on the frets and hit the high spots found. Then using the markers I crowned the frets with the tool I bought.

The fretwork on this guitar was quite decent to begin with but after this job it was better. I was able to lower the action a little more.

[mrmudcat]

Not that I have to add anything to Dreads post but this is important. As you noticed the pups are covered with tape also!! Make sure you take the time to do this right as their will be plenty of metal shavings/dust and you dont want that on your pups or in the cavities!;) Magnets and metal:whatever:

Great post brother and I know your just getting cranked up!:master:

[tot_Ou_tard]

Yow! First class thread Dread!

Very clear & well documented.

You done us all a very valuable service. Thanks! :AOK:

[Bloozcat]

Great post Dreadman. :AOK:

Tedious work, yes, but the difference it makes is like night is to day.

[wingsdad]

D-man, it is SO good to have you here to share your skills and knowledge of stuff like this :bravo: :) Thanks, amigo :AOK:

[Robert]

Oh D-man, we love this kinda of stuff here! This is just great! Highly appreciated.

[luvmyshiner]

I remember this project Dread. It's good to see it posted again. Many thanks.

[Pike]

Nice work Dreadman, and thanks for taking the time to put this together for us!

[kerc]

Excellent thread! Thanks! :D

[sumitomo]

Great thread, I think this thread has sticky written all over it.great info thats why I like this forum.Sumi

[ted s]

Nice tutorial Dread, thanks for posting.

[Cal]

Thanks Dreadman! :AOK:

I've been missing your magic posts. It's great to see you in action again; keep up the good work.

[just strum]

Dreadman,

Wow, flashback without the kool-aid.

Nice to see that post again.

[Dreadman]

Everyone's very welcome. My pleasure. If anyone can add anything to it, please do. I'm sure everyone does it a little differently and I'm happy to learn all I can.

Shiner & Strum (and others) - I'm glad to have a place to re-post it.

[wingsdad]

Great thread, I think this thread has sticky written all over it. ...
Not to put the D-man on the spot, but I'll bet I'm not alone when I say that he's got quite a few more potential sticky-threads on the care & feeding of our wood & steel weaponry up those flannel sleeves of his...:master:
:poke:

[magoo]

Great job Dread, Thanks for posting.

Stay tune folks D-Mans In the house.:master:

[murph]

Dread, what a great posting and the pictures just lay it out. Its good to see you posting your informative pieces again.

Murph

[StrokerAce]

thanks for this post.

what about the relief in the neck? should you straighten it out before you do this?

[Cal]

thanks for this post.
what about the relief in the neck? should you straighten it out before you do this?
Welcome to the forum StokerAce! :D

(BTW, if you read Dread's instructions in detail you'll find the answer to your question. :poke: )

[StrokerAce]

yep, i skipped right over it. thanks Cal.

[Rx Tone]

That makes the process so clear that anyone could do a pretty good job at what most of us pay someone else to do.



heh heh....

[Rx Tone]

What about compensating for the neck relaxing after the strings are off?
The profile of the neck without the strings is different than with strings.

How do you "level" frets on a radiused fretboard with a flat bar? Since it doesn't follow the radius, won't you get flat spots?

[kiteman]

What about compensating for the neck relaxing after the strings are off?
The profile of the neck without the strings is different than with strings.

How do you "level" frets on a radiused fretboard with a flat bar? Since it doesn't follow the radius, won't you get flat spots?

What I do is make the neck straight before doing any fretworks. I used a diamond dust coated steel plate to level the frets. The stone will follow the radius.

[Rx Tone]

What I do is make the neck straight before doing any fretworks. I used a diamond dust coated steel plate to level the frets. The stone will follow the radius.

I see.
I was leading up to the question of a neck jig.I've seen a couple of different versions.What do you think?
To me the idea makes perfect sense.

[BrettS]

Wonderful primer on DIY level and crown fretwork! Thank you sooo much!

[fretdancer]

Great job! Love the way you put the pictures up. Explained alot to those still in the process of learning the art of guitar repair.

[Geoffrey Charles]

Late to the party, but just wanted to say thanks for this wonderful thread.

[Spudman]

This is also a good video guide step by step. It's 22 sections long but very thorough and good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vm5kjLsDOdc&feature=PlayList&p=D65E8BFC21B63A99&index=19

[IronMaiden666]

do you work in a machine shop?

[MAXIFUNK]

great post as well as some great work on your axe!

[navvid]

Everyone's very welcome. My pleasure. If anyone can add anything to it, please do. I'm sure everyone does it a little differently and I'm happy to learn all I can.

Shiner & Strum (and others) - I'm glad to have a place to re-post it.

I have been told that if you file across the frets at a 45 degree angle when you are leveling, it helps to maintain the fretboard radius. That, or you use a sanding block which matches your fretboard radius.

Thank's for the great thread.

[guitardan777]

Great thread !!

I did this recently on one of my guitars....
But I used 12" radius block to maintain the FB radius and it worked like a charm. I started w/ 220 then went 350, 500, 600.....Overkill probably but sandpaper is cheap : ) I don't have the crowning tool, so I make shifted a foam block w/ a handle (thinking it would follow the fret profile) lots of elbow grease but it turned out pretty good. Then polished them up w/ 0000 steel wool

See:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Leveling/Fretboard_Radius-sanding_Blocks/8_Wooden_Radius-sanding_Blocks.html

Teadius work indeed, but well worth the time...

[M29]

guitardan777, I have a crowning file if you ever need to use one.

[guitardan777]

guitardan777, I have a crowning file if you ever need to use one.

Thank you my friend, I'll take you up on that next time I see you.....

[otaypanky]

Here's some more great material recently posted by Ron Kirn on another forum. Great detail and lots of tips.
Ron is well known for his tele and strat style builds. I have one of his tele's and it's wonderful
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-discussion-forum/201556-fret-leveling-yer-tele-101-a.html

[stiggowitz]

Nice work and the tips I can use.
I recently built a fret jig so I could level the fretboard under tension similar
to the one in a supply catalogue.
I've done fretboards without tension and done well but this jig seems to be a bit more precise and at 65 my eyes aren't quite what they used to be;)

s:)

[gordy_sg_no1]

most of my tools are diy lol. ok apart from the leveling radius beam as i got my friend who is a cnc machinist to make me one and bore the insides out. i tend to get by with very few tools realy. i have a home made notched straight edge made with a dremmel and a nice steel rule and i crown and end dress with needle files mostly now. although saying that the beam is only a time saver as i still preffer the no5 jack plane i used to use as it was the way i learned and its more ergonomic. im thinking about making a couple of end bevels next 45 deg and 37 deg. spose im an odd ball in the fretting system.

[yuominae]

Another super useful thread, thanks! Not sure I'm ready to do that by myself just yet though... How messy is it and much time does it take? I've got a mess-hating wife and time-intensive job and kids, which might be incompatible :D

[PeterPan]

Hey DreadMan. I also like to do my own leveling. One thing that often confuses me is the best way to compensate for the lack of string tension when you begin the main initial leveling task. Usually I just loosen the truss rod (hopefully remembering to note the starting point). Is that the best approach?