Lemon Oil on fretboards?

[ShootTheGlass]

A few people on here recommended treating my rosewood fretboard with lemon oil. Id heard of this when I first started playing not long ago, and was going to do it as I think the board looks a bit dry - the wood looks slightly greyed and lighter.

However, Ive recently seen some people on another guitar forum (*spits*) vehemently advising against the use of lemon oil saying it can rot a board, and make it dependent on being re-oiled. Surely this is only the case if you go nuts with the stuff?

Any informed opinions?

Thanks in advance.

[evenkeel]

I've used lemon oil, but prefer mineral oil. Definately use it very lightly. Wipe off any excess when you are done. If the fretboard is dirty, lightly clean with 0000 steel wool or a ultra fine scotch bright pad. I like the scotch bright pads better. No chance of a stray bit of steel getting stuck, rusting and making a mess. Also does not get all messed up with magnetic pickups.

[stingx]

I'm partial to lighter fluid. No brand preference...

[ZMAN]

I use D'Andrea lemon oil and conditioner on mine. I got it on a recomendation from my guitar tech. He uses it in his shop. You just wipe it on and rub it in with a cloth then buff it up to a light lustre. Don't let it get too greasy. I have seen Fretboards that have dried out and they are pretty bad. I use it spariingly and I have had a 2 oz container for a couple of years and I have about 7 guitars with rosewood boards.

[SuperSwede]

I'm partial to lighter fluid. No brand preference...

+1
:D

[Spudman]

Like everyone says use it lightly, let one treatment soak in and then wipe dry and buff. One treatment will last 1 to 2 years probably. Rosewood is naturally oily too so you don't want too much oil and make sure to clean the fretboard and not just stick more oil on a dirty fretboard. I like to use a fine steel wool first to clean and then oil.

[SuperSwede]

I like to use a fine steel wool first to clean and then oil.

A medium/hard toothbrush actually works really good for cleaning the fretboard, thats what I use... just dont stick it in your mouth after.

[sumitomo]

Has anyone noticed a difference (tone,feel,ect) oiling the fretboard or not?I have only cleaned mine and it looks good feels good but then again my hands get car dirty everyday and I know some of it never washes off my hands and I probably grind some in off my hands when I play.Sumi:D

[ShootTheGlass]

Thanks chaps, resounding yes. I normally do engineering and fabrication work so can get fine steel wool and scotch pads easily.

Ill have a go and see how it come out :)

[mrmudcat]

Make sure you sand/sratch with the grain horizontally.Not crossgrain.Naphtha is great for cleaning as mentioned above.I use *gerlitz guitar honey.(*link in other thread) for conditioning once or twice a year. I love it!!:bravo:

Boiled linseed oil can be used also for treatment.:beer:

[Plank_Spanker]

I like to play with clean hands, so my fret boards don't really get too dirty. I'll oil them with woodwind bore oil about once or twice a year. I've cleaned a few boards for folks that were certified bio-hazards..............lighter fluid and a soft bristled toothbrush to clean, bore oil to rehydrate the wood.

[evenkeel]

A medium/hard toothbrush actually works really good for cleaning the fretboard, thats what I use... just dont stick it in your mouth after.

That seems like a terrific way to go. Thanks for the tip!! :bravo:

[just strum]

Careful using steel wool or anything that has metal dust particles - you don't want it in your pick-ups.

[Plank_Spanker]

Careful using steel wool or anything that has metal dust particles - you don't want it in your pick-ups.

Most definitely. Completely tape off the pickups. Those magnets have a way of attracting metal shavings, and they do evil things to the windings.

That's why I use a toothbrush if I need it.

[Algonquin]

A tooth brush is a great way to go. I like to clean with my necks with a bit of diluted Murphy's Oil Soap. Followed by a little lemon oil... rub it in, rub it off, and Bob's you uncle! You're good to go :AOK:

[just strum]

Are we speaking of rosewood or both maple and rosewood?

The thread started with rosewood, but what about maple?

[Algonquin]

I would think most are referring to lemon oil on a rosewood neck. Maple would likely benefit mostly from a good cleaning I'd think.

[mrmudcat]

Strum strictly for rosewood /ebony or similiar like pau.
No oil on maple as they are finished:munch:

[mrmudcat]

Disclaimer:Post below is someones opinion on the net.It is not the opinion of me the poster;)



Ripped from here:

http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm


1. Linseed oil is more like a varnish than an oil. It seals the surface of the wood like a varnish, but oils of plant origin can later slowly penetrate. It comes in many forms. The stuff from a hardware or art store is a paint variety, boiled or raw. Both of them stink. If you insist on Linseed oil, get the food grade from a health food store. This grade doesn't smell so bad. If you use Linseed oil, take any rags or brushes that are used and dispose of them outdoors. This stuff can spontaneously burst into flame. You then lose both your ax and your home. Screw the cap on tight, minimizing any air space in tht container.

2. Tung oil is also a varnish. When used for this purpose, a small amount is applied and rubbed with one's hand until the surface feels hot. The heat from friction "sets" the varnish. This is where the term, "hand rubbed," comes from, not from skin oil. A hand has no lint and leaves no brush marks. A tung oil finish can also be later penetrated by a light weight plant oil. It is slow, but it works.

3. Mineral oil merely coats the surface, gives it a bright sheen, but does not penetrate. This prevents absorption by a plant oil after the fact. This includes most bore oils, but not all. Read the label.

4. Silicone based furniture polishes also make it shiny but prevent later penetration.

5. Polyurethane finishes can't be penetrated. Some shellacs can, but I don't know which.

6. Skin oil contains dirt, skin fragments, salt, bacteria and God knows what else. "Hand-rubbed" does not mean skin oil! It means Tung oil.

7. Petroleum based lubricants behave like mineral oil, don't penetrate the wood, and prevent future absorption. Most contain solvents that can potentially damage some adhesives.

8. Corn Oil, Safflower oil, etc, probably do penetrate to some degree, but contain no preservatives.

9. Lemon Oil, Almond oil, Walnut oil, Rosewood oil, food grade, are probably O.K., but make sure they don't contain solvents like naptha or other petroleum distillates. Solvents can weaken any adhesives used in instrument construction.
__________________

[Plank_Spanker]

I disagree with a couple of points above..

Mineral oil (bore oil) does not just coat the surface of the board. I've watched it being absorbed. I've used it for many years and my fret boards look and feel pristine. If it's good enough for big dollar woodwinds and the moisture those bores see, it's certainly good enough for my fret boards.

"Food grade oil? ROFLMAO!!!! Is that a joke? Nothing like a little extra virgin OV going rancid in the fret board. Save all that for salads.

Naptha is actually a tried and trued method of cleaning porous wood fret boards. You just need to rehydrate the wood with a good oil - bore oil, when you're done.

[marnold]

I've read a lot of forums rip the idea of using olive oil, but I've also heard it recommended by people who do this sort of thing professionally. To be honest, I don't know who to believe.

[Plank_Spanker]

I've read a lot of forums rip the idea of using olive oil, but I've also heard it recommended by people who do this sort of thing professionally. To be honest, I don't know who to believe.

I used to cook for a living, and I can tell you that olive oil does go rancid and bad over time. There is no way that I would ever apply olive oil to the fret boards of my guitars - other opinions be damned. It goes bad, and I wouldn't be a big fan of rancid oil inhabiting my fret boards..

I can only speak from my experience. In my 35 years of playing, bore (mineral) oil has never steered me wrong.

[mrmudcat]

Plank I agree with your above posts.I ran up on that crap on the net and thought it interesting.You do have to watch what and how much you use .:master:

Never had a problem with linseed or bore oil or naphtha for cleaning!:bravo:

[ShortBuSX]

I disagree with a couple of points above..

Mineral oil (bore oil) does not just coat the surface of the board. I've watched it being absorbed. I've used it for many years and my fret boards look and feel pristine. If it's good enough for big dollar woodwinds and the moisture those bores see, it's certainly good enough for my fret boards.

"Food grade oil? ROFLMAO!!!! Is that a joke? Nothing like a little extra virgin OV going rancid in the fret board. Save all that for salads.


You do know that mineral oil is considered "food grade safe", right?
Its used on meat slicers as well as other stainless kitchen items.
Although Id never use olive oil either.

I use lemon oil on BOTH rosewood and maple necks...it cleans my maple neck nicely. I even use it on the back of unfinished necks...and often use it with 2000 grit wet/dry paper to wet sand a neck smooth, even with my finished maple neck!
I find that the finish on maple necks tends to get worn, Ive got a MIM Strat that I picked up used for $200, the edges of the fret board was kinda jagged and rough, but with a lil light wet sanding with the lemon oil, she looks and feels brand new...although I like that blistered and lifted look on the very end of the fretboard(closest to the neck pup), so I left that.
But I do find lemon oil to be a nice mild solvent for cleaning maple fretboards too.

[Plank_Spanker]

I know that mineral oil was non-toxic, but I didn't know it was considered "food grade".

Learn something new around here every day.............:D

[ShootTheGlass]

To those who advised me to oil my fretboard...

Many thanks :D :bravo: . The board must have been really dry, it feels WAY better than it did, looks like healthy wood now, has really brought out the red tones in the colour of it too.

Also cleaned off my frets using some really fine steel wool. Looks phenomenal, like a new guitar! I blame all the hand cheese on the previous owner. Obviously...

[peachhead]

I've used Dunlop fretboard conditioner (I think it's like a lemon oil) without a problem, but since I mostly play acoustic at this point, I like Finger Ease. It has worked well for me so far and was recommended to me by both of my instructors. I know it's not specifically for fretboard conditioning but it seems to keep mine pretty well oiled up. When I change strings I hit it with the Dunlop. I try to keep my hands clean when I play but I sweat no matter what I do.

[thearabianmage]

I've read a lot of forums rip the idea of using olive oil, but I've also heard it recommended by people who do this sort of thing professionally. To be honest, I don't know who to believe.

To anyone thinking about using extra virgin olive oil on their fretboards: don't.

I've tried it and it sucks. When you apply it, it gives it an awesome shine. . . when it dries it goes grey and 'shadowy'.

Bad times.