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View Full Version : MIA vs MIM neck interchangability



stoneattic
August 12th, 2008, 08:02 PM
Does anyone know for sure if the MIA and MIM necks are interchangeable? The reason I ask is that I dislike the screw in trem in my MIM standard and I'm thinking about replacing the trem with an aftermarket one that has the pop-in type of bar. I know the MIA trem will have wider string spacing and I'm wondering if the "E" strings with end up too close to the edge of the neck.

I know I'll need to fill and re-drill to mount the MIA width trem, but I can handle that.

hubberjub
August 12th, 2008, 08:28 PM
I think a Fender Stratocaster neck pocket is the demention on all of the models. A Telecaster neck is not the same though.

ShortBuSX
August 13th, 2008, 06:45 AM
Sounds like your question is more about string spacing on the trem than it is actually about necks, right?

What exactly is your new trem option?

stoneattic
August 13th, 2008, 07:03 AM
Sounds like your question is more about string spacing on the trem than it is actually about necks, right?

What exactly is your new trem option?

I'm thinking of this guy here: http://store.guitarfetish.com/wivitrpoarst.html

I know I'll have to fill and drill the body for the different screw spacing. I am thinking about modifying the holes in the trem though.

I'm worried that MIA spacing (2 7/32") or the in between that some aftermarket trems have (2 1/8") will leave my E strings too close to the edge of the fret board. But if MIAs have the same neck width, at least in the pocket, which it appears they do, then it shouldn't be a problem

Bloozcat
August 13th, 2008, 09:59 AM
In answer to your first question, yes, the neck pocket dimensions are the same on MIM Fenders as MIA Fenders. So, the necks are interchangable.

As to your second issue, why not save yourself all the trouble of plugging holes and re-drilling, and insteadjust get one of these:

http://store.guitarfetish.com/minmeimstupt.html

Steel trem block, stamped steel bridge saddles, and made to fit the screw hole pattern on a MIM Fender. And...it's a couple of bucks cheaper too.

stoneattic
August 13th, 2008, 12:22 PM
In answer to your first question, yes, the neck pocket dimensions are the same on MIM Fenders as MIA Fenders. So, the necks are interchangable.

As to your second issue, why not save yourself all the trouble of plugging holes and re-drilling, and insteadjust get one of these:

http://store.guitarfetish.com/minmeimstupt.html

Steel trem block, stamped steel bridge saddles, and made to fit the screw hole pattern on a MIM Fender. And...it's a couple of bucks cheaper too.

Thanks for the responses.

The pop-in trem versus the screw in is the reason for all this. The link you posted still has the screw in style, which feels "wobbly" to me.

Bloozcat
August 13th, 2008, 12:44 PM
Thanks for the responses.

The pop-in trem versus the screw in is the reason for all this. The link you posted still has the screw in style, which feels "wobbly" to me.

Have you tried the stiff spring in the trem arm hole yet?

At one time, Strat tremolos actually came with this spring. What it does is to create tension against the trem arm as you tighten the arm down. The effect is to give the feel of the threads being "locked", instead of loose and sloppy.

I do like that Wilkinson Vintage style tremolo that you pointed out, though. I've used it on several guitars and builds recently. I like that it's very vintage in design, fit, and tone, yet it has the 2-1/8" string spread that I prefer. So, I can't fault you for wanting one. It's just that extra fillin' n' drillin' that you'll have to do (and I've done enough of that myself as well!).

stoneattic
August 13th, 2008, 01:47 PM
I haven't tried the spring. What prevents it from falling out when the trem arm isn't installed? Any tips on where to get such a spring?

I was originally looking for a steel block like the Callaham or GFS, to replace the zinc one but was trying to find one that would use a pop-in arm, killing two birds with one stone as they say. But no one I could find seems to make one. The Wilkinson was the closest I could find but involved some modification. I'm still leaning toward the Wilk and "ovalling" the holes in it to fit the MIM spacing instead of filling and drilling the body. I have access to a mill so I can do the work very cleanly. I figure the screw heads will hide the work anyway.

Bloozcat
August 13th, 2008, 02:27 PM
I haven't tried the spring. What prevents it from falling out when the trem arm isn't installed? Any tips on where to get such a spring?

I was originally looking for a steel block like the Callaham or GFS, to replace the zinc one but was trying to find one that would use a pop-in arm, killing two birds with one stone as they say. But no one I could find seems to make one. The Wilkinson was the closest I could find but involved some modification. I'm still leaning toward the Wilk and "ovalling" the holes in it to fit the MIM spacing instead of filling and drilling the body. I have access to a mill so I can do the work very cleanly. I figure the screw heads will hide the work anyway.

Hmmm...where to get the spring...

It seems that I always have stuff like that lying around. Maybe saddle springs, or humbucker mounting springs that I cut down, or possibly even ball point pen springs. I can't really recall exactly where they came from.

I've heard of problems with the trem arm hole in the bridge plate lining up with the hole in the GFS steel replacement block. Trouble is, GFS hasn't been able to identify which models/years the problem happens with...or if it's possibly just random even.

Filling the existing bridge mounting holes really isn't that difficult. I'd advise using hardwood dowel pins for the job as they have spline cuts in them that allow air to escape when pushing them into the hole. Straight dowel blanks that you cut to length will work, but they like to float up out of the hole from the hydraulic effect of the glue sealing the air pocket under the dowel. Tight-Bond or Elmers glue will work well to hold the dowels in place. A good drill press for drilling uniform holes, a good Japan saw without offset teeth for cutting off the excess dowel once in, and some good masking tape to protect the surface area paint around the bridge when cutting, and you've got just about what you need.

Then comes the fun of getting the new holes perfectly aligned....:)