Use of boiled linseed oil

[Duff]

Does anyone see a problem with using boiled linseed oil to polish your guitar finishes and fretboards?

The idea would be to apply a small amount and spread it with a buffing cloth and then buff it off to a beautiful oil shine.

This, of course, would contain zero abrasives and would leave a nice glossy finish when buffed off.

I'm wondering if it would soften the guitar finish or anything like that. Buffing it off should eliminate any softening effect, but I thought I would ask because there is so much knowledge out there on the Fret it's unbelievable. I am sure there are some people that know about using linseed oil on guitars.

Thanks for the feedback,

Duffy

[Rocket]

What kind of guitar?
What kind of finish does it have?

[Spudman]

Isn't that highly flammable? If I remember right I've heard that it isn't recommended for rosewood fingerboards. Fret Doctor beats anything out there on the market. It conditions and feeds the wood. I've started using it after switching from Formby's Lemon Oil which I've used for many years.

I also wouldn't use oil on finished wood.

[Duff]

They are very nice Epi LP's and an SG and various other guitars with poly and urethane finishes and clear coat.

I was using some Formby's or other fine furniture wax with carnuba wax in it but my dog chewed it up. I need to get some more pure wax with no abrasives in it. I don't mind wear marks but like a waxed look; moreso than a polished look.

I'm concerned that the linseed oil might weaken the finish poly or urethane or clear coat, even when used sparingly and completely buffed out.

I have regular premium fretboard oil.

The idea of using some linseed oil I have around came to mind and I thought I should see if anyone thinks it could be degrading to the finish, as in softening the finish.

Any ideas from any of you wood work specialists?

Duffy

[wingsdad]

I'm no woodworker, I know zip about boiled linseed oil, but I've learned to never use things like common household furniture polish (builds up layers of wax that are just miserable to get off) or any abrasive gummy polishes on any body or neck finish, and never any polish on a satin finish as it will get into the wood's pores.

There's a lot of good light, non-abrasive polishes out there, and everybody has their personal preference. Once I found this, it became mine:
Fender Meguiar's Guitar Care Kit at Sweetwater (http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/099-0508-000/)

For conditioning rosewood or ebony fretboards I use Kyser's Dr. Stringfellow. I used to use regular lemon oil for furniture, but it's too 'syrupy' (?). For glossed fingerboards (like my STRAT & ASATs maple or my Rick 12's glossed rosewood), since all they really need is cleaning, the Fender/Meguiar's kit's 'Mist & Wipe' is perfect.

[Algonquin]

I think it may be best to consider another product for your guitar care. Here's an clip from a quick search I did...

Why shouldn't you pick linseed oil as your first choice in a preservative?

Linseed oil has some negatives. Granted, it has been used with some success for many years. But welcome to the modern world! Today, there are scads of linseed oil-based paints and preservatives that expand on linseed oil's good qualities while overcoming (at least to some degree) its drawbacks.

Some of the problems with straight linseed oil, boiled or raw, are:

Sometimes linseed oil can take forever to dry... or stays sticky or doesn't dry at all!! This is a nightmare situation that happens too often when linseed oil is applied either (1) too thickly, (2) onto damp materials or (3) when the temperature is too cold. Thinning linseed oil with turpentine can help somewhat, but even with thinning it is important to apply thin, multiple coats but allow each coat to dry before applying the next!
No UV (ultraviolet) light resistance... UV causes more damage to exposed wood than any other factor, destroying wood fibers and setting it up for attack by mildew, fungus, and insects.
Linseed oil is mildew food... Many vegetable oils are food products for humans... all vegetable oils are food products for mildew! Linseed oil is not completely denatured, so it can encourage rather than discourage mildew growth.
Linseed oil does not harden sufficiently to offer enough resistance to abrasion to be a suitable deck floor preservative... at least by today's standards. Linseed oil has been used for interior wood floors, but it must be waxed for durability! Waxing an outside deck would be dangerous, even if you hang a "Slippery When Wet" sign!
Difficult to remove from wood... Multiple coats of linseed oil are gummy and difficult to remove fully for refinishing.