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Proper way to install a new nut?
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Thread: Proper way to install a new nut?

  1. #1
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    Default Proper way to install a new nut?

    Someone asked me how to install a nut properly so I thought I'd pose the question to real experts such as yourselves.

    I'm no authority when it comes to building or installing nuts, but I'll post how I've been successfully peforming nut replacements with precut Graph-Tech nuts. I suggest waiting for others to chime in as they will surely offer suggestions that are better then mine.

    I use the Graph-Tech nuts because they are frictionless, precut, and easy to install. They tone the highs down a little bit, add midrage to your tone, and improve tuning stability immensely. The self lubricating material never binds or sticks as other materials do.

    If you do decide to try this, make sure the string spacing is the same on the new nut before you start working. I exclusively use the the precut Graph Tech precut nuts from Stew-Mac since they are the cheapest vendor I've found that sells them. I'd like to try some other materials but it's the only precut nut I can find on the internet.

    Here's my hack procedure:
    • Remove the strings.
    • Use a pair of pliers to slowly wiggle the nut loose and pull it gently out of its joint. If you are rough, you can crack the finish on the neck and cause an unwanted blemish.
    • Use a razor blade, screwdriver, or sharp kitchen knife to scrape out any leftover glue.
    • Put the nut in the neck. Trim the edges and file the bottome adjuster with a fine file until you reach the desired height and fit. (The stock height has been spot-on 85% of the time for me.)
    • Rub a small amount of Elmer’s Carpenter glue in the slot with a toothpick until you have a decent enough amount to make a good tight fit.
    • Install the nut and be sure you firmly push down to ensure its seating is solid.
    • Allow a few hours to dry,
    • Restring, set the desired string height, tune up, and away you go!
    I always rub a dab of 3-in-1 weight oil between my fingers and smooth it out across the string wherever friction will occur. (nut, saddles, and tremolo block cavity). This ensures a smooth lubricated connection which will aid tuning and resist string breakage.

    Ok guys... now tell me what I'm doing wrong.
    "It's funny the way most people love the dead. Once you are dead, you are made for life." - Jimi Hendrix

  2. #2
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    How easy do the stock Fender nuts come off? Have you had any break while part of the nut is still in the guitar?
    Guitars/Bass - MIM Fender Classic 50s Strat, MIM Fender Standard Strat, Squier Classic Vibe 50s Tele, Gibson Les Paul Studio, Epi '56 Gold Top Les Paul, Martin DSR acoustic, Sigma Martin Auditorium electric/acoustic, Squier Jazz Bass.

    Amps/Cabinets/Modelers - Model 2558 50 watt Marshall Silver Anniversary Jubilee combo w/ Celestion Vintage 30s, 4x12 Marshall cabinet w/25 watt Greenback Celestions, Fender Blues Junior w/ a couple of Billm mods, Line 6 POD 2.0, Roland Micro Cube

    Pedals/Effects - Cry Baby Classic Wah, Boss TU-2, Boss NS-2, Boss RC-2 Loop Station, Ross Compressor, MXR Micro Amp, Danelectro FAB Echo, Danelectro FAB Chorus, Danelectro Chicken Salad, Marshall Guv'nor Plus, Marshall Echohead, Duhvoodooman's Zonkin' Yellow Screamer, Digitech Digiverb, Digitech Bad Monkey, Dunlop Fuzz Face, Homemade Loop Bypass pedal, Duhvoodooman's Sonic Tonic (Maxon SD-9 clone +), Voodoo Labs Superfuzz

  3. #3
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    I was successful replacing the nut on my guitar - at least partially. The install was a snap - cutting a new nut from a blank is something best left to the pros I'll have to track down those Graph Tech's for my new supply of SST57's

    You may need to gently tap the old nut out from one side. I used a hammer and a small chisel. Once the bond is broken between the old nut and whatever adhesive was used, it should slide or pop out. Take your time, be gentle and go slow and you shouldn't have any problems.

    I only changed one step from temoloman's procedure: I restrung my guitar and tightened the strings to tune before the glue cured. I was told the string tension would pull the nut into the proper position - seemed to make sense to me.

    Disclaimer: I'm not a guitar tech, I can barely play this thing as it is. Use your own judgement before attempting repairs or taking my adivice
    Electrics: Hagstrom Ultra Swede (Gold Eagle Burst) Gretsch 5120 Electromatic (Orange) Custom Nashville Blackout Telecaster (Black, Stat mid/neck p'ups; Lil Puncher (Modern Vintage) bridge p'up; Wilkinson Compensated Bridge w/ 3 brass saddles, Warmoth Vintage Modern Birdseye Maple Neck) Fender MIM Stratocaster (Blue Agave, Rosewood Fretboard, Fender Tex-Mex p'ups; GFS Trem/Block Kit) Highland Spitfire (semi-hollow, flame maple top w/ bubinga inlay)
    Acoustics:Washburn D10CEQSB, Yamaha FG160E
    Bass: Westone Spectrum ST, Warwick Rockbass Corvette Basic Active
    Amps: Vox NT15H/V112NT Night Train, Peavey Bandit 112, Hartke HyDrive 210C Bass Amp, Vox DA5


  4. #4
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    Any nut should come off without much trouble. The first thing you want to do is take an exacto knife (or razor blade) and trace along the seam where the nut abuts the fret board...on both sides of the nut. Do the same to the nut ends (around the whole "U" formed around the nut end). Doing this will ensure that you won't get any unwanted finish chips when you do the next step. Be careful, you don't want to slip and gouge your beautiful neck!

    Next, take a small flat punch and use it to gently tap the nut on one end. The nut should break free rather easily without alot of force. Once the nut is out, clean up the nut slot, and you're ready to install the new nut.

    There are many great websites out there on guitar repair that go over proper nut installation. Here's one that I like that comes complete with illustrations that are quite helpful:

    http://fretnotguitarrepair.com/ElectricGuitarRepair.htm

    Another great source and a must have for any serious modder is Dan Erlewine's book, "Guitar Player Repair Guide" which can be purchased from Amazon, or locally at Barnes and Noble (where I got mine). Great book that I refer to constantly.

    Those are a couple that I can think of off the top of my head. As soon as I can remember more I'll post 'em.

    EDIT TO ADD: A couple more...
    http://www.frets.com/
    http://www.stewmac.com/
    Last edited by Bloozcat; July 14th, 2006 at 12:51 PM.

  5. #5
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    My first ever electric guitar had a nut problem (my constant bending and doublestops, though poorly executed, cut right through the nut, leaving the strings almost flush with the fretboard). I took it to the music store for a new one. I got the guitar back a week later, with a cracked neck, on the low "E" side, and a new nut. The response to my inquiry of "What the h-e-doubletoothpicks happened?!?" was, "Dude, uh, we're like sorry, but, um, yer nut was held in by some really good glue. We had to use a chisel and it put a crack in your neck. Don't worry, we epoxied it real good, and if there's a problem, bring it back."

    The moral of the story? BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING A STOCK NUT, ESPECIALLLY WITH A CHISEL. Oh, and don't trust your guitar to idiots.
    Guitars:
    Fender 2006 MIM Fender Stratocaster HSS in 3TS
    Ibanez RG 570 with a bridge Invader
    ESP M II Deluxe with a Tune-o-Matic bridge
    Eleanor, the magical, mystical Road Worn wonder Tele
    Blackstar HT Club 40

  6. #6
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    That's why my Tele has a brass nut. Perfectly cut and it won't wear out!

  7. #7
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    Squier & Fender nuts have been a breeze to remove. The SX ones are a bit more diffucult. I was impatient and both broke into a few pieces during the removal process. I might have been alright if I had been more careful but I'm just too excited to wait most of the time.

    If it had been an expensive guitar I would have certainly been a little more patient. Id I wanted patiens I would have been a doctor! :P
    "It's funny the way most people love the dead. Once you are dead, you are made for life." - Jimi Hendrix

  8. #8
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    Ok, how do you know what is the correct string spacing one should get for a new nut? Are nuts preset or do I need to measure each slot?
    Guitars:

    Electric: Washburn HB-30, Squier Tele Custom Deluxe, Jay Turser Strat.
    Acoustic: Seagull S6.

    AMPs: VOX AD30VT, Peavey Envoy 110.

    Modelers: V-AMP 2, Digitech RP-100A.

    Pedals: Boss RC-2 Loop Station, Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble, Digitech Bad Monkey, Ibanez DE7 Delay/Echo, DOD VFX40B 7-Band Graphic EQ, Ibanez CS-5 Super Chorus.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim
    Ok, how do you know what is the correct string spacing one should get for a new nut? Are nuts preset or do I need to measure each slot?
    With one of these from Stew-Mac...$20.95

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