The transistors I used in mine are 2N3904's.
The pinouts are (with the flat side facing to the right): C-B-E top to bottom.
The GenaralGuitarGadgets (GGG) schematic uses 2SC1815's. I think they are the same pinout configuration.
The transistors I used in mine are 2N3904's.
The pinouts are (with the flat side facing to the right): C-B-E top to bottom.
The GenaralGuitarGadgets (GGG) schematic uses 2SC1815's. I think they are the same pinout configuration.
Guitars: Epiphone SG-400 Custom; Epiphone Firebird V; 1996 Gibson LP Standard; Avion 4; Yamaha FG-301B acoustic
FX: TS-808; Big Muff (Triangle Version); Red Llama; Green Ringer Octave Up (Clones); Maxon Phaser; Maxon Compressor; Tremulus Lune Tremolo; Line 6 POD II
Amp: (Somewhere in another country) Hiwatt 100W head, Marshall 4x12 cab
My noise here
No, they're not. 2SC1815's have the collector pin in the middle position:Originally Posted by Suhnton
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...oshiba/964.pdf
MPSA18's are the same pinout as the 2N3904's, but much higher gain.
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So, I remember one of them was a 2SC1815. Praise the lawd. So, what would be the practical difference between using MPSA18's and 2N3904's, because the legs on my reclaimed MPSA's are stubby, and I've got brand new 2N3904's sitting there.Originally Posted by duhvoodooman
The higher gain transistors will keep the buffer gain closer to unity. You may lose a few percent by going with a lower gain tranny. Shouldn't be a big deal.Originally Posted by thegnu
DVM's Ever-Expanding Gear List:
Guitars - W-A-A-A-Y-Y too many to list. Check 'em all out HERE
Amps & Cabs - "Kap'n Kerrang-aroo" BYOC 18W TMB kit amp head; Mojave Coyote head; Fender Hot Rod Deluxe Lacquered Tweed Ltd. Ed.; Allen Sweet Spot kit amp; BYOC Tweed Royal kit amp; Epiphone Valve Jr. combo + mods; Drive 2x12 cab / Celestion G12M Greenback + G12H30; AB Custom Audio 1x12 cab / Celestion Alnico Blue
Pedals/Effects - ZILLIONS, including DVM's Home-built Pedals - See some HERE and HERE, TOO!
DVM's Gear Photos
Visit MY WEBSITE!
Cheers for the correction (I was too lazy to look it up )Originally Posted by duhvoodooman
Guitars: Epiphone SG-400 Custom; Epiphone Firebird V; 1996 Gibson LP Standard; Avion 4; Yamaha FG-301B acoustic
FX: TS-808; Big Muff (Triangle Version); Red Llama; Green Ringer Octave Up (Clones); Maxon Phaser; Maxon Compressor; Tremulus Lune Tremolo; Line 6 POD II
Amp: (Somewhere in another country) Hiwatt 100W head, Marshall 4x12 cab
My noise here
Hey guys, thanks for the help. You guys are pretty darn friendly, as forum inhabitants go.
I had some MPSA18's that weren't too short I couldn't put small pieces of old heatshrink tubing and twist its feet around. So that's done.
I've got interesting stuff to report (at the very least for future googlers). On the OD-9, the TS808 mod resistors are already in place. As for the Keeley more/less mod, the "4k7" is a 2k2 resitor, and the "51k" resistor was a 20k. So I just let them be.
The Monte Allums tri-gain mod installs a switch that gives you stock 1n914a silicon diode clipping on one side, LEDs on the other, and a blend in the middle. I had some issues with the solder joints falling apart, so I took a little bit of that radioshack board with the copper pads per-hole, so I could mount the mod on a more stable surface. Now I've got asymmetrical germanium diode clipping, and symmetrical silicon diode clipping.
Except I screwed up my switch from resoldering it too many times, and for now, only the germanium diodes are working.
Thanks for your help!
For future Googlers, as you say , usually looking up the transistor type gives you the datasheet, most often in PDF format, and that shows you a picture of the transistor with the pinout clearly labeled.
Example:
About lifting traces or solder pads, make sure you're using a proper wattage soldering iron (a 25W should be used for PCB work), and be very careful when desoldering (don't let the desoldering braid, if you're using that, cool and stick to the solder pad and then force it off, and don't pull on the components that are not ready to come out). If a trace does come off, you can fix it with a jumper wire (most of the time a resistor leg can be used for that), or you can scrape off some of the insulating coating from the track near the old solder pad and solder the component leg to that.
As for having the option to switch between clipping devices, my (unsolicited ) opinion is that these things are better done on things that are designed to do that and are more experimental in nature, such as a BYOC OD2 kit.
And finally, about MPSA18 vs. 2SC1815, the swap is not really worth it unless you triple the ammount of distortion your pedal can do, or you're using the pedal with very noisy single coil guitars. Even then, the difference is subtle. I'd be surprised if anyone could hear it in a live situation.
Hope this helps.
Yeah, in retrospect, I don't much care for the switch, but I already have a hole where the switch goes. I'm in a learning and tinkering phase, so there's no harm in playing around as long as I'm careful not to blow things up. And as for removing components, I got the cheapo Radio Shack desoldering iron, and it's made component removal way, way easier that using a regular desoldering pump and desoldering braid.Originally Posted by red
Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.
IME the 2SC1815 is already a pretty good device. I don't think there is any point in changing them out in these pedals. If they had used 2N3904's from the factory, then maybe, but I'd let the 2SC's be.
Currently a bad bass player pretending to be a worse guitarist.