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Thread: Truss Rod Adjustment?

  1. #1
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    Question Truss Rod Adjustment?

    I have a wee bit of fret buzz, especially on the low E (not enough for most people to notice, but I do and it bugs me ). Should I adjust the truss rod to give the neck more relief, and if I do so will it affect intonation?

    Thanks,

    Trev
    Electrics: Hagstrom Ultra Swede (Gold Eagle Burst) Gretsch 5120 Electromatic (Orange) Custom Nashville Blackout Telecaster (Black, Stat mid/neck p'ups; Lil Puncher (Modern Vintage) bridge p'up; Wilkinson Compensated Bridge w/ 3 brass saddles, Warmoth Vintage Modern Birdseye Maple Neck) Fender MIM Stratocaster (Blue Agave, Rosewood Fretboard, Fender Tex-Mex p'ups; GFS Trem/Block Kit) Highland Spitfire (semi-hollow, flame maple top w/ bubinga inlay)
    Acoustics:Washburn D10CEQSB, Yamaha FG160E
    Bass: Westone Spectrum ST, Warwick Rockbass Corvette Basic Active
    Amps: Vox NT15H/V112NT Night Train, Peavey Bandit 112, Hartke HyDrive 210C Bass Amp, Vox DA5


  2. #2
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    T_Ross – I am no expert on this subject matter but I do adjust my truss rods from time to time. It sounds to me that you just need to raise that low E string just a tad higher than you have it right now. If the other strings are not buzzing then most likely your relief is OK.
    Guitars:

    Electric: Washburn HB-30, Squier Tele Custom Deluxe, Jay Turser Strat.
    Acoustic: Seagull S6.

    AMPs: VOX AD30VT, Peavey Envoy 110.

    Modelers: V-AMP 2, Digitech RP-100A.

    Pedals: Boss RC-2 Loop Station, Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble, Digitech Bad Monkey, Ibanez DE7 Delay/Echo, DOD VFX40B 7-Band Graphic EQ, Ibanez CS-5 Super Chorus.

  3. #3
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    I can't adjust the action on each individual string as I have a fixed bridge/saddle (as most acoustics will be). Without replacing or mod'ing the nut and saddle the only way I know of adjusting string height is with truss rod adjustment - or am I missing something?
    Electrics: Hagstrom Ultra Swede (Gold Eagle Burst) Gretsch 5120 Electromatic (Orange) Custom Nashville Blackout Telecaster (Black, Stat mid/neck p'ups; Lil Puncher (Modern Vintage) bridge p'up; Wilkinson Compensated Bridge w/ 3 brass saddles, Warmoth Vintage Modern Birdseye Maple Neck) Fender MIM Stratocaster (Blue Agave, Rosewood Fretboard, Fender Tex-Mex p'ups; GFS Trem/Block Kit) Highland Spitfire (semi-hollow, flame maple top w/ bubinga inlay)
    Acoustics:Washburn D10CEQSB, Yamaha FG160E
    Bass: Westone Spectrum ST, Warwick Rockbass Corvette Basic Active
    Amps: Vox NT15H/V112NT Night Train, Peavey Bandit 112, Hartke HyDrive 210C Bass Amp, Vox DA5


  4. #4
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    T_Ross,

    Hey, sorry about that. I missed the category of "Acoustics" when I read the question. A tapered shim might do the trick for you. Hopefully another Fretter may help you with this one.
    Guitars:

    Electric: Washburn HB-30, Squier Tele Custom Deluxe, Jay Turser Strat.
    Acoustic: Seagull S6.

    AMPs: VOX AD30VT, Peavey Envoy 110.

    Modelers: V-AMP 2, Digitech RP-100A.

    Pedals: Boss RC-2 Loop Station, Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble, Digitech Bad Monkey, Ibanez DE7 Delay/Echo, DOD VFX40B 7-Band Graphic EQ, Ibanez CS-5 Super Chorus.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim
    T_Ross,

    Hey, sorry about that.
    No problem-o I figured you must have missed that.
    Electrics: Hagstrom Ultra Swede (Gold Eagle Burst) Gretsch 5120 Electromatic (Orange) Custom Nashville Blackout Telecaster (Black, Stat mid/neck p'ups; Lil Puncher (Modern Vintage) bridge p'up; Wilkinson Compensated Bridge w/ 3 brass saddles, Warmoth Vintage Modern Birdseye Maple Neck) Fender MIM Stratocaster (Blue Agave, Rosewood Fretboard, Fender Tex-Mex p'ups; GFS Trem/Block Kit) Highland Spitfire (semi-hollow, flame maple top w/ bubinga inlay)
    Acoustics:Washburn D10CEQSB, Yamaha FG160E
    Bass: Westone Spectrum ST, Warwick Rockbass Corvette Basic Active
    Amps: Vox NT15H/V112NT Night Train, Peavey Bandit 112, Hartke HyDrive 210C Bass Amp, Vox DA5


  6. #6
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    hey T_Ross, I am no expert with this as well, but I have tinkered with my acoustic guitars quite a bit. I have found that slight adjustments to the truss rod usually solve the problem, and generally will not affect the intonation. I like my action/relief pretty low, and I find that when the seasons change (pennsylvania), that I usually need to make a minor adjustment. Intonation never went out of whack for me.

    Good luck!
    Leonidas' Gear List:
    Electric Guitars - Agile AL-2800 (S.D. '59 B, Pearly Gates N), Squier Telecaster Custom (GFS FAT PAFs + Mods)
    Acoustic Guitars - Crafter ML-Rose, Epiphone PR-350CE
    Amps - VOX AD50VT, Epiphone Valve Jr. (Modded), Fender Blues Jr
    Pedals - Crybaby Classic w/ Fasel Inductor, Boss DS-1, Digitech Bad Monkey, Danelectro Cool Cat Chorus, Danelectro Fish & Chips EQ, Ibanez AW7

  7. #7
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    Thanks! I'll give it a shot and blame you... I mean, let you know if I have any problems - LOL!

    Trev
    Electrics: Hagstrom Ultra Swede (Gold Eagle Burst) Gretsch 5120 Electromatic (Orange) Custom Nashville Blackout Telecaster (Black, Stat mid/neck p'ups; Lil Puncher (Modern Vintage) bridge p'up; Wilkinson Compensated Bridge w/ 3 brass saddles, Warmoth Vintage Modern Birdseye Maple Neck) Fender MIM Stratocaster (Blue Agave, Rosewood Fretboard, Fender Tex-Mex p'ups; GFS Trem/Block Kit) Highland Spitfire (semi-hollow, flame maple top w/ bubinga inlay)
    Acoustics:Washburn D10CEQSB, Yamaha FG160E
    Bass: Westone Spectrum ST, Warwick Rockbass Corvette Basic Active
    Amps: Vox NT15H/V112NT Night Train, Peavey Bandit 112, Hartke HyDrive 210C Bass Amp, Vox DA5


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