Callaham steel block install question.

[Tone2TheBone]

For those of you mighty Strat slingers who have one and installed it yourself...is it really necessary to put the arm on while you put on the bridge plate as the instructions say? I'm thinking the only reason Bill suggests doing this is to take up slack between the plate and the arm so it won't swing around freely. Is this why?

[tremoloman***]

I didn't receive any instructions to do that, but then again none of the 6 steel blocks I've installed have the new enhanced "pop-in" model you got. Perhaps this may be a new requirement of the enhanced model.

I can't see how you could damage it by not having it installed while assembling it to your bridge. After all, it is just a steel block with some holes drilled in it.

I'll gladly trade you for the older style model which doesn’t have this requirement if you wish!

-trem

P.S. Would you please take a picture of the old and new block side by side so the rest of the members can see just how awesome these blocks are in comparison to the crappy MIM?

[Tone2TheBone]

I didn't receive any instructions to do that, but then again none of the 6 steel blocks I've installed have the new enhanced "pop-in" model you got. Perhaps this may be a new requirement of the enhanced model.

I can't see how you could damage it by not having it installed while assembling it to your bridge. After all, it is just a steel block with some holes drilled in it.

I'll gladly trade you for the older style model which doesn’t have this requirement if you wish!

-trem

P.S. Would you please take a picture of the old and new block side by side so the rest of the members can see just how awesome these blocks are in comparison to the crappy MIM?

I just PM'd you. I mentioned that I did take pictures of the whole process of installation to post here but that I left the camera at home. I'll post them later. I didn't put the arm in as the instructions mentioned cause I didn't see any advantage to do it. The plate doesn't move at all from the hole locations once you start the screws. The whole process took me only 20 minutes with me taking pics as I went.

[tremoloman***]

I just PM'd you. I mentioned that I did take pictures of the whole process of installation to post here but that I left the camera at home. I'll post them later. I didn't put the arm in as the instructions mentioned cause I didn't see any advantage to do it. The plate doesn't move at all from the hole locations once you start the screws. The whole process took me only 20 minutes with me taking pics as I went.

Awesome T2TB! Thanks for taking the time to take some pictures. I had planned on doing this the next time I do an upgrade, but you've beat me to the punch.

Since you did this part, I'll take on the task of doing some before & after soundclips. I'm going to install one in my SX SST62 in a couple of weeks along with a new set of pickups I got in a trade.

[Cranium]

Will this block fit in all/most Fender strat models?

[Tone2TheBone]

Here are photos I took during the installation of the Callaham Steel Tremolo block.

Obviously the first thing I did was to take off the strings to prep for the removal of the trem...

Attachment 528

This is a shot of the Callaham block before it was installed. A nice big solid piece of cold rolled steel. Yowza....

Attachment 529

Next I took the springs off the claw in the cavity of the trem...

Attachment 530

Once the springs are out you can start taking the bridge screws off the body...

Attachment 531

This is what the bridge/trem assembly looks like off the guitar...

Attachment 532

I have to post a second time for the other set of photos because I can only upload and attach 5 photos at a time. Go to the other post to view....

[Tone2TheBone]

Continuation:

Here is a side by side comparison of the stock pot metal trem block and the Callaham Steel block. A whole 5 ounce difference in weight.

Attachment 533

Start taking out the string saddles one by one and place them somewhere on the side in the order you took them out so you can put them back in the same way otherwise you'll have to readjust the string saddle heights...

Attachment 534

After the string saddles are off you can then take the bridge plate screws out. The photo was taken with the assembly still in the cavity because I didn't have a 3rd hand to take the photo with and turn the screwdriver. You can do this part with the unit out in your hand.

Attachment 535

And this is what the bridge plate looks like without the saddles and trem block.

Attachment 536

And finally attach the new steel screws that come on the Callaham to the bridge plate and go backwards and reinstall all the saddles and body screws. You will have to reintonate your guitar unless you cleverly marked where your saddles were before taking them off.

Attachment 537

[Tone2TheBone]

Last shot of the trem installed with springs attached and ready to be strung.
Attachment 538

The oddball spring in the photo was one I had laying around. I had lost the original spring somewhere...but you get the "picture."

Notice that the string holes are bore'd such that the ball ends of the strings will sit just below the surface of the bottom of the trem block. This means more energy is transfered to the strings due to the longer length inside the block. How does it sound? Louder and tighter with more sustain. I highly recommend replacing your blocks.

[tremoloman***]

Excellent pictures and posts T2TB! That guitar is goregous!
What kind of camera did you take those pics with? They came out awesome!

[Tone2TheBone]

Thanks man. It's a Nikon Coolpix 4200. I ran it in Macro mode with flash on.

[duhvoodooman***]

Wow, good thread & nice pix, T2TB!

[M29]

That was great, I am glad to see the Callaham block mine looks pretty close, I see they use a full size block and I wondered if it would fit properly because the original has the cut out area.

I think if I can drill out my blocks broken drill I can add some weld or epoxy to put the hole back to the correct size, redrill, and I will be good to go.

Awesome, thank you very much for your time taking these nice sharp pictures.

M29

[Tone2TheBone]

I'm glad to be of help. I know I sure have picked tremoloman's brains for the past couple of weeks I own him a great deal of thanks! Now I want to hear his sound clips. I'll eventually do some although they won't be before and after clips. Bring on the sound clips Trem!

[Tinky-Winky]

I was wondering about whether the stock bridge and saddles would also make a difference to the sound. The thing is, if they were made from poor metal, then mightn't the sound of the quality tremolo block be somewhat reduced?

EDIT: Have a look down this page and have a look at the drill bits below the cobalt. You can certainly drill your broken bit out with a harder bit.
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/drillfaq.htm

[Spudman***]

Hey Tone.

Do you happen to have the ability or did you measure the distance between the holes (center to center)?

I am curious what the measurements are because it would be great to be able to change the blocks on the Squier Strats as well. Usually the measurements on their hardware can differ slightly from USA or Mexican hardware.

If the specs are the same then the Squier Special Edition Strats are an even better bargain once the trem block is replaced.

[Tone2TheBone]

I was wondering about whether the stock bridge and saddles would also make a difference to the sound. The thing is, if they were made from poor metal, then mightn't the sound of the quality tremolo block be somewhat reduced?.....

You cannot reduce from quality that already IS. This is a big steel block man! The Callaham steel block is going to be a huge improvement over the crappy 5 oz. zinc housing (not even gonna call it a block). And if you opt to get the steel saddles and screws to go with it then you can't go wrong. It's all good.

[Tone2TheBone]

Hey Tone.

Do you happen to have the ability or did you measure the distance between the holes (center to center)?

I am curious what the measurements are because it would be great to be able to change the blocks on the Squier Strats as well. Usually the measurements on their hardware can differ slightly from USA or Mexican hardware.

If the specs are the same then the Squier Special Edition Strats are an even better bargain once the trem block is replaced.

S - All I know is that the Mexican Standard blocks fit the 2 1/16 string spacing for MIM guitars. I don't know what the Squiers have. Someone probably has already requested steel blocks from Bill for Squiers. If they haven't I'd be really surprised. I'll contact him and ask. Can you imagine how many more he would sell if he did?

[tremoloman***]

T2TB:
Thanks for the props, but it's you who took the time to post those great pictures. All I did was nag you to give the Callaham a try. I promise to post some sound clips as soon as I can. My recorder is in the studio and my bass player is keeping it so he can mix our recordings during the week. It should be soon!

Tinky-Winky:
The Callaham saddles are SO much better than the stockers. The difference between the quality is night and day. The saddles alone will improve your tone and reduce string breakage, but the block is what makes the most difference. If you can only go for one of the two, it's really worth getting the block. (Callaham saddles are available for both vintage and Mexican spacing).

Spudman:
I can't speak for all Squiers, but I discovered that a MIM bridge plate fit my Jagmaster to a "T". Using the MIM bridge plate, I was able to install a Callaham block without any trouble.

[Tone2TheBone]

T2TB:
Thanks for the props, but it's you who took the time to post those great pictures. All I did was nag you to give the Callaham a try. I promise to post some sound clips as soon as I can. My recorder is in the studio and my bass player is keeping it so he can mix our recordings during the week. It should be soon!

Tinky-Winky:
The Callaham saddles are SO much better than the stockers. The difference between the quality is night and day. The saddles alone will improve your tone and reduce string breakage, but the block is what makes the most difference. If you can only go for one of the two, it's really worth getting the block. (Callaham saddles are available for both vintage and Mexican spacing).

Spudman:
I can't speak for all Squiers, but I discovered that a MIM bridge plate fit my Jagmaster to a "T". Using the MIM bridge plate, I was able to install a Callaham block without any trouble.

I'm going to go all the way and order some saddles from Bill. Can't hurt none. I'm glad you were there to support the endeavor Trem.

I hadn't thought about using an MIM bridge saddle on a Squier thats a good idea. I don't have a Squier but for these guys that do I'm thinking that would work. Great idea.