Buzzing after string change

[Eric***]

Question for whoever can answer:

I recently changed the strings on my Agile AL-3100 (LP clone), and I put on GHS boomers, 0.011. Now, I get a tiny bit of buzz on open chords strummed hard. Moreover, in the Line 6 Pod Farm I mess around on quite a bit, there's a distinct buzz/distortion after the pick attack now, which makes even clean guitar sound distorted.

So I guess it's a couple of questions: 1) Is it possible I screwed up something I don't even realize in restringing the guitar (it's the same gauge strings as the setup, except the low E is slightly heavier due to a different brand) and 2) Is this in any way related to the distortion I hear in Pod Farm/Gearbox now?

I posted this in here because of the stop tailpiece/Les Paul thing, but maybe this would be better off in the beginner thread? Not sure.


Eric

[aeolian]

If you can figure out if it is only one string that is buzzing or several strings that are buzzing that can help figure out what is wrong. It will also be helpful to see if it is open string or fretted string that is buzzing.

[Eric***]

I suppose I should note that the thing played great before, so this is all pretty new. I'm not sure if the software stuff is related, but I was looking for reasons why it sounded so bad.

[Commodore 64***]

Are the strings you put on a different gauge than the ones you had previously?

[Eric***]

Are the strings you put on a different gauge than the ones you had previously?

I believe the ones on there previously were here, while the new ones are here. As you can see, some difference, but not much. Both were 11s, but some of the intermediate strings were a smidge different.

[ZMAN]

When you changed the strings did you do them individually or did you take them all off at once and start from scratch? If you did the neck would not have tension on it and it could have moved slightly. I would check the neck reliief and see if you need a minor adjustment. The string tension will bring the neck back into alignment but it may take a day or so.
You could also check the nut and make sure the strings are seated properly.
Other than a possibility that the bridge was moved slightly that is all that coud affect the buzzing.

[Eric***]

When you changed the strings did you do them individually or did you take them all off at once and start from scratch? If you did the neck would not have tension on it and it could have moved slightly. I would check the neck reliief and see if you need a minor adjustment. The string tension will bring the neck back into alignment but it may take a day or so.
You could also check the nut and make sure the strings are seated properly.
Other than a possibility that the bridge was moved slightly that is all that coud affect the buzzing.

Thanks. My main concern is that something like the bridge or tailpiece screw height/tension may have changed. Are those things super-touchy to the point where a slight rotation of either screw could really mess with your action?

If the answer is 'yes', do you happen to know of any good links for simple bridge and tailpiece setup/adjustment?

[markb]

First check the relief. Put a capo at the first fret and fret the top E at the last fret clear of the body. Measure the clearance under the fret halfway between. You should be able to just get a 2nd string under there without touching as a general rule. If the gap is huge you'll need to tighten the truss rod. If no clearance, loosen it. Go gently, 1/8th turn at a time.

One that's set, use the bridge screws to set the action. It just goes straight up and down all at once so it's quite simple. You can measure the string height as you move the bridge. Tune and test for buzzes.

Use the tailpiece screws to fine tune the sustain and playing feel. Often tailpieces are screwed right down as "more angle = better", right? Well, not necessarily. This can give you a really choked sounding, tight feeling guitar. The only way to find the optimum height is by trial and error with a lot of retuning between adjustments.

Set the intonation once you've made all other adjustments. Never adjust intonation with old strings.

All this takes me about half an hour.

[Eric***]

When you changed the strings did you do them individually or did you take them all off at once and start from scratch?

BTW, I did take them all off and then restring the whole thing. That was about a week ago, and it's still acting funny, but duly noted for the next time I change them.

[ZMAN]

Yes Eric it is not a good idea to take all the tension off the neck if you don't have to. There are times when you must remove the strings, such as a pickup replacement or fret work etc. In that case you would probably have to adjust things again. What you are dealing with is thousands of an inch for buzzes so it can be a slight variation or a multiple of small things that cause it. You probably did not have the tension off very long and a small adjustment is all you need. I am not one to advise on set up. I have a great tech that I take all my guitars to. He will do a complete set up for 30 bucks plus strings. I usually don't change strings very often so I haven't run into this issue. The only time I have had to adjust a neck was a seasonal adjustment to a Fender Strat. That was only a couple of turns on the truss rod.

[Rockette]

A lot of times, after a string change, a tuner shaft nut loosens and causes the washer to buzz or chatter that is mistaken for string buzz.
Worth checking.

[Eric***]

First check the relief. Put a capo at the first fret and fret the top E at the last fret clear of the body. Measure the clearance under the fret halfway between. You should be able to just get a 2nd string under there without touching as a general rule. If the gap is huge you'll need to tighten the truss rod. If no clearance, loosen it. Go gently, 1/8th turn at a time.

Thank you so much for this. It's not nearly as intimidating when you lay it out like that. One question: when you say the high E, are you talking about the 0.011 string? And you mean the gap should be the thickness of the B string?

[markb]

Thank you so much for this. It's not nearly as intimidating when you lay it out like that. One question: when you say the high E, are you talking about the 0.011 string? And you mean the gap should be the thickness of the B string?

Yes and yes. Some guitars play better with more or less relief but that's a good starting point.