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Thread: Getting a nut...

  1. #1
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    Default Getting a nut...

    As long as I'm going to be performing surgery on my epi strat copy. I was thinking that perhaps I should replace the nut. From what little i've been able to glean from the intarweb, it appears that my Epi has a plastic nut. I don't know why this would be bad, but most people say they replace plastic nuts.

    How do I know if my nut is bad? How hard is it to replace a nut?

  2. #2
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    There are a number of informative web pages available (I included two, but not necessarily the best).

    To do the job right, you need the proper tools. A good set of files is one of the first things you will need. - http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/tools.htm
    You can also find sets at Amazon and other web sources.

    The first thing I would do is watch some videos so you can determine if you need to replace the nut.

    If you decide to replace the nut, then you have to determine material (the great debate begins). I will give you my spin or opinion on material. If the slots and and height are good, material makes little difference as it pertains to tone. This is always debated, but once you fret the strings, the nut is really taken out of the picture. However, the nut also plays a role in wear and that is where plastic tends to lose out when compared to other materials.

    Many people prefer bone for what they say is tone and appearance. Although bone will wear over time (tuning and restringing wear), if treated correctly, it will last for many years. Adding a dry lubricant such as a graphite will help wear and also helps maintain tuning. I use a graphite made for door locks, but there are many different types on the market.

    Another material that people like to use is tusq. I tried this material on an acoustic saddle and didn't care for it and have since avoided its use. However, many people use it and swear by it.

    http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/nuts.htm

    http://www.ehow.com/video_2375091_ad...ut-height.html

    In the end, you might decide the investment in time and tools isn't worth the hassle and then it's time to visit Woodsy's and have them do it.
    Mark
    * Loud is good, good is better!

  3. #3
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    Good advice from JS. I had an Epi Sheraton. I to had heard that it would improve the tone and sustain. It cost me 60 bucks including the bone nut.
    I could not hear any difference! Nor could I see any.
    I would only replace a nut if the strings are sloppy in the grooves. The nut may not be cut deep enough and the string will sit too high on the nut. This would affect the set up to a certain degree. On a 45 dollar guitar I would not worry about that. The upgrades you are doing on the electronics will make a huge difference.
    As a side note, my guitar tech will adjust the nut during a set up. He finds it makes it much easier to get a really good low action, even if it's plastic.
    The Blues is alright!

    Guitars: 1968 Gibson SG, 2005 Gibson SG Standard, 2006 Gibson LP Classic Gold top, 2004 Epiphone Elitist LP Custom, 1996 Gibson Les Paul Standard. 2001 Epiphone Sheraton II, 2007 Epiphone G400.
    Fender Strats: 1996 Fender 68 Reissue CIJ, 2008 Squier CV 50s, 2009 Squier CV 50s Tele Butterescotch Blonde

    Amps: Blues Junior Special edition Jensen in Brown Tolex with Wheat front, 65 Deluxe Reverb reissue,1970 Sonax reverb by Traynor, Avatar Custom 2/12 Cabinet with Eminence Legend V1216 speakers,
    2008 DSL100 Marshall Amp , Fender Super Champ XD,Fender Vibro Champ XD

    Effects and Pedals: Fulltone Fulldrive II, Fulltone OCD, Fulltone Mini Deja Vibe, Fulltone Fat Boost, Dunlop Crybaby Wah, Boss DS1, Boss DD20 Giga Delay, Boss TU2 tuner, Boss BD2, Ibanez TS9 Tube screamer, Zoom 505. Radial tonebone hot british.

  4. #4
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    If the open strings play in tune with no buzzes and no strings hang up when bent, the nut is fine. If there is a little binding some lubrication will usually fix it.
    Electric: Fat strat > Korg PB > TS7 > DS1 > DD-20 > Cube 60 (Fender model)

    Acoustic: Guitar > microphone > audience

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