Neutrik or Switchcraft?

[Eric***]

Which sort of 1/4" plugs do you prefer and why? Though it seems like it might end up being a push on cost, I think I'm going to start soldering some of my own cables and wanted input on connectors.

I think I'll need a mismash of 90 degree and straight 1/4" mono plugs. Any input from all of you?

[markb]

Neutrik are easier to solder and have better built in strain relief, no messing with heatshrink tubing. I don't notice a difference in use. Oh, the Neutrik silent plug is a nifty thing to have at the guitar end.

[Spudman***]

I like Neutrik too because they are usually bigger around and easier to grab. Otherwise both work fine.

[Ch0jin]

I just started using Neutrik right angle plugs and I like them so they get my vote

[Eric***]

Question on soldering: how is one supposed to solder the shielded part to a Neutrik plug? I just did my first little patch cable after much delay, but at first I had a buzz because one of the shields wasn't connected to the outside collar.

So what's the best way to do this? I'm finding that to be the toughest part. No comments on what that says about my soldering skill, please -- I'm well aware of that.

[Spudman***]

Question on soldering: how is one supposed to solder the shielded part to a Neutrik plug? I just did my first little patch cable after much delay, but at first I had a buzz because one of the shields wasn't connected to the outside collar.

So what's the best way to do this? I'm finding that to be the toughest part. No comments on what that says about my soldering skill, please -- I'm well aware of that.

You'll need to have some solder flux paste. Do you? Put a dab of this on the part of the plug opposite the place (pin) the other wire is soldered too. The flux will allow the solder to stick to it. That is where you connect the ground lead. There is no pin for the ground to get soldered to. It just connects to the body of the plug.

Tin the lead
Put some flux on the area where the ground lead goes
Put some solder on the tip of your iron
While holding the ground lead in the paste touch the tip of the iron with solder down right where you want the wire soldered

In no time the flux will bubble and the solder will flow and you can remove the iron and let the solder cool. That should do it.

[Commodore 64***]

Flux-cored solder, FTW.

Oh and tin your wired ends. Always.

[Eric***]

Flux-cored solder, FTW.

Yes, that's the type I have.

Oh and tin your wired ends.

I did that, but I didn't put a blob of solder on the plug itself, which would have helped. I found a guide that talked about unweaving the shield, bunching it on one side, and twisting it into a wire, which is the info I really needed. I think that should make it much easier.

[Spudman***]

I found a guide that talked about unweaving the shield, bunching it on one side, and twisting it into a wire, which is the info I really needed. I think that should make it much easier.

Exactly. That's what you do. Twist the braid so that you have 2 solderable leads.

[Commodore 64***]

I found a guide that talked about unweaving the shield, bunching it on one side, and twisting it into a wire, which is the info I really needed. I think that should make it much easier.

If you didn't do that in the first place, I don't know how in the world you soldered anything to the right place. Did you just not solder the shield wire at all?

[Eric***]

If you didn't do that in the first place, I don't know how in the world you soldered anything to the right place. Did you just not solder the shield wire at all?

Is there an emoticon for ":condescending"?

I was able to solder the shield to the outside collar by just rolling down the shield a little bit to move it away from the signal cable, putting some solder on the shield, and soldering it to the outside part of the neutrik plug. It was a little annoying, hence the initial question, but possible.