This might be interesting to try....

[duhvoodooman***]

When I was planning the pickup wiring mods for my Epi Dot, I had initially planned to use two push/pull pots to wire the neck p'up (a Duncan Jazz 4-conductor humbucker) for series/parallel/coil-cut capability, in addition to the bridge p'up. I ended up holding off on that until I could hear what the bridge p'up wiring mods sounded like. Glad I did, because now I don't think I would bother setting up the neck for both coil-cut and parallel, since they really don't sound much different on the Duncan JB I have at the bridge. So I'm thinking I'll just wire up the neck for series/parallel switching with a DPDT push/pull pot, which has the advantage of keeping the p'up hum-cancelling in both modes. However, since I wouldn't need the additional push/pull pot to add coil-cut switching, that got me thinking about a different use for it....

While doing my research for the Dot p'up wiring mod, I came across a couple of schematics for "Jimmy Page" humbucker wiring. One option he apparently included in his LP wiring mods was the ability to run all four coils of the two humbuckers together in series, essentially making one big 4-coil "megabucker". As you would imagine, this gives a really big, fat, full sound, though it can tend to be muddy. Still, the concept is a very tempting one to try out, and I'm giving it some serious consideration. I worked up a modified wiring diagram from my previous Dot project, and the switch and wiring configuration to do this is shown below. The new additions are the two DPDT switches shown on the neck pots at the top of the diagram, although it does require running a couple of wires between the switches on the bridge volume pot and the neck tone pot to make the "megabucker" series switching work.

Just curious--have any of you Fretters ever run the "megabucker" series wiring in your dual humbucker guitars? If so, how did you like it?

Attachment 546

[duhvoodooman***]

I completed the above wiring mod today, and the results are really interesting. Here's a quick summary:

I decided to go with a series/parallel push-pull pot on the neck volume control. The parallel setting for the neck p'up by itself is nothing special, but if you go to dual-p'up mode and put both the bridge and neck on parallel, you get a real nice bright, twangy (for a 335-type guitar) tone.

The "megabucker" switch setting--putting both humbuckers into series, like one big 4-coil 'bucker--is just too cool! FAT with three capital F's! I was afraid it might be too muddy, but that's really not a problem at all, to my ear. I put this on a push/pull on the neck tone pot.

I'll try to get an audio clip or two posted in the next couple of days.

While I had the Dot pulled apart, I made two other "improvements":

1. I ran a wire from a ground point on the controls and wedged the other end between the mounting arm and the foil-covered underside of the pickguard. The last of my pickguard static crackle is gone.
   
   
2. I rewired the volume pots so that the volume controls are independent when in dual-p'up mode. I.e., turning down one control doesn't affect both p'ups, like stock Gibson wiring does--only the one it's connected to. You just switch the contacts on the volume pot that the pickup and the wire to the 3-way selector switch are connected to. Easy!

Here's a modified drawing showing all the wiring mods I've done to my Dot pickup controls now, including the independent volume controls:

Attachment 576

One thing I'd do differently if I was doing this again--there's really no need to have coil-cut and parallel capability on the same pickup, IMO. After hearing both, they sound very, very similar. The coil-cut is easier to wire, but the parallel mode has the advantage of being hum-cancelling, which the coil-cut is not. Thus, there's no need to use a 3-position toggle switch, and the series/parallel can be handled with a DPDT push-pull pot. So, if I was starting over with the Dot, I would go with 4 push/pulls, just like Spudman told me to!! Guess we all have to learn the hard way sometimes, hey Spuds?

Anyway, you could have all the tonal options I have in my Dot (except for the questionably useful coil-cut I have on my bridge pickup) by wiring up a 4-control, 2-humbucker guitar as follows:

• Bridge volume DPDT push-pull pot wired for series/parallel operation
• Bridge tone DPDT push-pull pot wired for in-phase/out-of-phase operation
• Neck volume DPDT push-pull pot wired for series/parallel operation
• Neck tone DPDT push-pull pot wired to add bridge pickup in series ("megabucker" switch)

This is essentially the same as the "Jimmy Page" wiring mod, except it uses series/parallel switches on each humbucker, rather than coil-cuts. It's a lot of soldering, but the results are an aural smorgasbord!!

[tot_Ou_tard]

Vood,

Do you have your usual "you can do this too" list of photos with all the circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one telling what each one was...?

I *need* that if I am ever gonna try something like this.

[Spudman***]

So, if I was starting over with the Dot, I would go with 4 push/pulls, just like Spudman told me to!! Guess we all have to learn the hard way sometimes, hey Spuds?

We all get our lessons exactly as the universe deems appropriate. Still, it sounds like you ended up with a versatile sounding axe and that is worth all the bumps from along the path. Isn't that what it's all about?

What the hell am I talking about?!

[elavd]

Look at that:
http://www.gilmourish.com/?page_id=66

[Justaguyin_nc]

We all get our lessons exactly as the universe deems appropriate. Still, it sounds like you ended up with a versatile sounding axe and that is worth all the bumps from along the path. Isn't that what it's all about?

What the hell am I talking about?!

Nice one YodaSpud.. Actually so true... reminded me of "if the frog had wings"... but in a nicer way...

DVM... you keep up these wiring posts.. they really spark an interest!!

[duhvoodooman***]

Do you have your usual "you can do this too" list of photos with all the circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one telling what each one was...?

Nope, sorry, Tot. Didn't try to chronicle this one with photos. I was so up to my eyeballs in wiring diagrams, switches with little tiny contacts, bits of wire, and soldering stuff that a camera never even crossed my mind. Besides, if you've seen one "solder this here" photo, you've seen 'em all!

We all get our lessons exactly as the universe deems appropriate. Still, it sounds like you ended up with a versatile sounding axe and that is worth all the bumps from along the path. Isn't that what it's all about?

What the hell am I talking about?!

You're asking me??? But seriously, your original advice to go with 4 push-pulls was right on the money. So you can't be too crazy....

DVM... you keep up these wiring posts.. they really spark an interest!!

Punny. Very punny!

[tot_Ou_tard]

Nope, sorry, Tot. Didn't try to chronicle this one with photos. I was so up to my eyeballs in wiring diagrams, switches with little tiny contacts, bits of wire, and soldering stuff that a camera never even crossed my mind. Besides, if you've seen one "solder this here" photo, you've seen 'em all!

That's too bad, but I understand!

Are the pups hard to change on a 335 type guitar or does the fact that it has a solid block down the center make it as easy as a solid body?

[duhvoodooman***]

Are the pups hard to change on a 335 type guitar or does the fact that it has a solid block down the center make it as easy as a solid body?

They're a PAIN to change on a 335-type, because all the wiring is inside the body, with no way in there. Thus, you have to loosen the whole wiring harness and pull it out through the f-hole to be able to work on it. Actually, pulling it out the f-hole isn't so bad, compared to putting it back in! You have to run string or wire through the mounting holes for the individual controls and out through the f-hole, tie it around the neck of the switch or pot of choice, and then pull it back through the f-hole and up through the mounting hole. Big fun....NOT! Strats & tele's are a dream to work on compared to these!

[tot_Ou_tard]

They're a PAIN to change on a 335-type, because all the wiring is inside the body, with no way in there. Thus, you have to loosen the whole wiring harness and pull it out through the f-hole to be able to work on it. Actually, pulling it out the f-hole isn't so bad, compared to putting it back in! You have to run string or wire through the mounting holes for the individual controls and out through the f-hole, tie it around the neck of the switch or pot of choice, and then pull it back through the f-hole and up through the mounting hole. Big fun....NOT! Strats & tele's are a dream to work on compared to these!

Yikes!

As I have never changed pups before, it looks like I'll have to look into hollow/semihollows with excellent pups. Any recommendations for a newbie on a budget?

BTW, I've got to say it one more time.

You Duh_Man Voodoo! You make me feel like I might someday be able to mess with my gitfiddles like you do!

[Spudman***]

They're a PAIN to change on a 335-type, because all the wiring is inside the body, with no way in there. Thus, you have to loosen the whole wiring harness and pull it out through the f-hole to be able to work on it. Actually, pulling it out the f-hole isn't so bad, compared to putting it back in!

Now you know why they are called "F" holes.

[duhvoodooman***]

As I have never changed pups before, it looks like I'll have to look into hollow/semihollows with excellent pups. Any recommendations for a newbie on a budget?

Well, the Epiphone Dot's, for sure. The stock p'ups are good, not great. The model I have goes for $400 new, but there's a "studio" version that can be had for $300, with only one volume and one tone control. The Ibanez Artcore series is definitely worth a look. Warren just got one (see HERE) & likes it a lot. I tried a couple in GC and didn't like the feel as much as the Dot, but the p'ups sounded very good, I thought. Rondo Music has some very inexpensive semihollows from Douglas, SX and Agile, though I have no idea how good they are.

BTW, I've got to say it one more time. You Duh_Man Voodoo! You make me feel like I might someday be able to mess with my gitfiddles like you do!

Thanks, but it's really not as hard as you might think. Just don't start out on a $2500 LP! A Squier Strat would be a good first project.

Now you know why they are called "F" holes.

I think you covered that once before, Spuds, but it definitely bears repeating!

[duhvoodooman***]

I recorded three clips to demonstrate the new tones my Dot picked up from these latest mods. All were recorded using my Vox AD30VT on the Black 2x12 model with a bit of reverb. For the "clean" riffs, I used nothing else, and for a "dirty" tone, I added in my Digitech Bad Monkey. I made no volume adjustments within any of the clips, so the volume modulations you hear are strictly the result of the different pickup configurations.

Here are links to the clips, with a description of each:

CLIP # 1

Comparison of the stock middle pickup position (both humbuckers in parallel) vs. the "megabucker" switch on (both humbuckers in series). The same pair of riffs is repeated four times:

1. Clean, both humbuckers in parallel (toggle at middle position)
2. Clean, both humbuckers in series ("megabucker" on)
3. Dirty, both humbuckers in parallel (toggle at middle position)
4. Dirty, both humbuckers in series ("megabucker" on)

CLIP # 2

All clips recorded with the "megabucker" switch on, and alternating in-phase and out-of-phase with the bridge pickup. The out-of-phase riffs have that distinctive hollow, nasal tone, which having the two p'ups in series seems to accentuate. The same riff is recorded four times, with the first pair clean and the second pair dirty. A different riff, containing some chording, is played at the end, using the dirty setting:

1. Riff 1, clean, "megabucker" on, bridge in-phase
2. Riff 1, clean, "megabucker" on, bridge out-of-phase
3. Riff 1, dirty, "megabucker" on, bridge in-phase
4. Riff 1, dirty, "megabucker" on, bridge out-of-phase
5. Riff 2, dirty, "megabucker" on, bridge in-phase
6. Riff 2, dirty, "megabucker" on, bridge out-of-phase

CLIP # 3

The third clip demonstrates the effect of the series/parallel switches on the individual humbuckers. When this switch is on, the coils within the same pickup are placed in parallel, rather than the stock series configuration, giving a brighter but somewhat thinner tone. With the pickup toggle in the middle position, I played the same riff twice, first with both p'ups in their usual series configuration, and then with both switched into the parallel mode. If you need a little more "twang" than your humbucker guitar will normally produce, here's a good way to get it. It ain't "Tele-ville", but it's definitely brighter than the stock tone:

1. Clean, dual pickups, both pickups in serial mode (stock)
2. Clean, dual pickups, both pickups in parallel mode

[Spudman***]

Cool! That megabucker sounds pretty fat. I like it. Thanks for posting sound clips. You're a champ.

Hi ho, hi ho, it's off to mod I go...

[SuperSwede]

Very nice DVM.... very funky out of phase sounds!

[tot_Ou_tard]

Yes, excellent Vood. You've really got me thinking that I should try (the simpler version) of this mod if I get a 335 clone.

[alanfc]

Very Cool !
I'd go crazy with all those choices. Would be great for recording though