Questions about setting up a guitar at home -- what's required?

[Eric***]

So at the urging of some fellow fretters, I'm now interested in teaching myself/learning how to do a decent setup and some regular guitar maintenance. I've been afraid of screwing up guitars in the past, but now I have some guitars that probably need a truss rod adjustment, so I'm willing to dive in.

First is a request for a link to a setup guide. Anybody know of a decent site or two to guide me through this? I've found some decent ones just by googling, but sometimes the best sites are pretty well hidden, so if anyone has a really good site, I'd appreciate it. I was thinking video would be extra useful, but I'll take whatever I can get.

Secondly, what tools do I need for the job? I have a somewhat basic multimeter, though that's not really involved in neck/action/intonation setup. Are there any specific measuring tools you use in a setup? List anything and everything that comes to mind or that you use when setting up your axe.

All input is welcome! It's fret.net brain-picking time! Thanks!

[oldguy]

The correct size allen wrenches for the truss rods, bridge saddes, etc. on your guitars is essential. Some people measure the neck relief, which is fine, but I usually eyeball it from the nut to the bridge, get it straight, and raise/lower the bridge to suit me.
I've done it for so long I don't even think about it. You probably should check the neck relief w/ a straightedge for awhile until you find what you prefer.....some like a pretty healthy bow, not me.
If you run into intonation problems you'll likely want a good tuner to sort that out.
Screwdrivers of the right size and proper type are essential also. It sucks to ruin a screwhead on your guitar because that screwdriver you had laying around "almost" fit snugly!

[Andy]

this covers all that and much more..plut the guy is very responsive to questions ...prepare to set alot of time aside this guy is very detailed !

or you can skip to the actual set up vids

on one playlist he builds a complete parts-caster...full of details ..tools needed set up and so on.

very informative, no stone left un-turned

http://www.youtube.com/user/smbstressfest#g/p

[deeaa*]

Eric,

For truss rod adjustment you need nothing special - just a wrench that fits. Usually an allen key, almost as usual you need a socket, and possibly a screwdriver to remove the rod coverplate.

Here's how, just follow these.

1. Make sure the guitar is in tune
2. Press down high E string on 1st fret (F) and 12th fret.
3. Somehow pick the string between, over the neck that is, while holding it on the fretboard at both ends. The aim is to get this so that it _just barely_ rings when gently picked. If it just goes 'zzrt' the neck is too straight. If it has ample room to vibrate, there is too much bow.

You don't really need a lot of bow - just enough for it to ring in between, but the idea is, the harder you like to play and want pure cleans, the more bow you want, and the more shredder type you want to heck with full powerful chords, the straighter you want.

4. If the neck is too straight, rotate the rod end counterclockwise a quarter turn. Check for any change. Make sure the guitar is in tune, hit a few chords and re-check between 1st and 12th. Adjust it more or return some if need be.

Of course, if there is too much bow, turn it counterclockwise. In this case be a tad more careful, and you may want to loosen the strings just a tad before you do.

But anyway, that's all there is. Just turn it counterclockwise until there is ever so slight bow, and clockwise if there is too much.

It's really not much harder than tuning the thing. Certain time of the year, I just leave the cover off and the key in place on some axes as they need it daily :-)

And, finally, now that the neck bow is perfect, make sure the bridge height is correct as well and action nice.

Do report back how it goes. I've be happy to give guidance via Skype cam or something, but I'm just leaving for a holiday trip.

[Eric***]

Hmm. Well, I did that truss-rod test on the guitar I thought needed it the most, and it seems to be about right. If it buzzes sometimes on fretted notes played at reasonable volumes, does that mean the action is too low?

It tends to just buzz when unamplified, so maybe it's normal?

[deeaa*]

If the buzz is constant everywhere, not just in a few spots, then yes, the action is too low for the fret/neck condition. Could also be that the frets are worn or slightly uneven here and there in which case it'd need a light fret level.

Hard to tell what do you perceive as buzz, IMO electrics may 'buzz' just slightly and it won't be audible amplified...but you can also try to give it a touch more bow, i.e. loosen the rod maybe 1/8th turn to start with, as the more bow it has the less there is of course buzz.

If the buzz occurs on low strings only the neck is too straight 'sideways', in a perfect guitar neck the high end side is almost razor straight, not quite but barely rings free, but the low side still has enough clearance between the 1st and 12th to slide under a rather thick calling card. Usually all necks bend slightly more i.e. just right on the bass side due to more string pull that side.

If the buzz occurs on a particular string check it's height only, and if the buzz occurs on a particular area of the neck, there's a raised or damaged fret 1-2 frets away directly towards the body from where it buzzes.

My test for correct string height to a given fret condition is this:

When the neck relief is correct, do full bends somewhere between 12th and 20 something frets. Should ring clear without 'snagging' to buzz when pulling up the bend. Now do the same but go 1,5 steps bend, and in those I allow a slight buzz here and there, especially in the area where it's really impossible to bend anyway (past the 16th or so). If either bending ends in 'grounding' to a buzz, you need to raise the bridge alright.

[Bloozcat]

Eric,

I highly recommend this book:

This is the latest edition of the book (hasn't been an update in 14 years). It's one of those books that covers so many useful things about guitar maintenance, set-up, and repair, that it'll have you wondering how you ever got along without it. It's $29.95 from Stew-mac, but I found mine (older edition) for less at my local Barnes & Noble.

[wingsdad]

+1 on Bloozcat's recommendation. Make sure you get it with the DVD. If you don't have a B&N nearby, try here...they have book & DVD sales from time to time, which is how/when I scored it:
Erlewine's Book at Elderly Instros

[marnold***]

I also like the Metal Method Setup and Repair DVD. Worth its weight in gold.

[LeftyBlues]

+2 on the Erlewine book! My one bit of input us this: truss rod adjustments, a little bit goes a loooong way, hence the 1/4 turn at a time! If any doubts, especially on an older instrument, take it to a luthier.

[aeolian]

One thing to know about truss rod adjustment is that the effect of adjusting it is not immediate. Many times I have read that you should let the guitar settle after a truss rod adjustment for 24 hours before checking to see if it did what you want.

[Eric***]

Do any of you use any sort of ruler or other device for checking string height?

[Heywood Jablomie]

Do any of you use any sort of ruler or other device for checking string height?

I have a 6" metal precision ruler I got at Home Depot for under 5 bucks. Scales in 32nds and 64ths, and works well to check for high frets. Keep in mind that with guitars, most measurement specs are merely approximation, and can vary quite a bit depending on the guitar itself and other setup conditions, the player's personal taste, string type/gauge, etc.. What I'm saying is that specs are guidelines, and not etched in stone. Some players seem to get low-action envy when they read about so-an-so's 2/64" action, which is just a number and not an indication of how well the guitar plays overall, or whether it would even be to your taste. Understanding the basics and being able to make basic adjustments is a blessing because the need for the occasional tweak is inevitable.

Edit:

Here's the ruler, and it's under 2 bucks

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

[deeaa*]

Seems to me too that it's a question of so tiny changes it's already very hard to even measure correctly, plus how would you measure anyway - which string, which fret to measure? Which side of the neck?

I just go by my rule of barely rings between & no 'grounding' with bends anywhere, works well for me.

[Eric***]

I have a 6" metal precision ruler I got at Home Depot for under 5 bucks. Scales in 32nds and 64ths, and works well to check for high frets. Keep in mind that with guitars, most measurement specs are merely approximation, and can vary quite a bit depending on the guitar itself and other setup conditions, the player's personal taste, string type/gauge, etc.. What I'm saying is that specs are guidelines, and not etched in stone. Some players seem to get low-action envy when they read about so-an-so's 2/64" action, which is just a number and not an indication of how well the guitar plays overall, or whether it would even be to your taste. Understanding the basics and being able to make basic adjustments is a blessing because the need for the occasional tweak is inevitable.

Edit:

Here's the ruler, and it's under 2 bucks

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Does that thing measure flush at one end? That's been my frustration with the rulers I have sitting around -- there's the little unmarked bit at the end that makes it hard to get a good measurement when sitting it on a surface.

But anyway, as you say, it's all subjective. I just notice guitar techs sometimes taking out their measuring tools and what not and doing all of these checks, so I thought I might need something a little more accurate than my 5th-grade plastic ruler...

[Eric***]

Seems to me too that it's a question of so tiny changes it's already very hard to even measure correctly, plus how would you measure anyway - which string, which fret to measure? Which side of the neck?

I just go by my rule of barely rings between & no 'grounding' with bends anywhere, works well for me.

Yeah, that's probably good and easier anyway. It's little tips like those that I've been missing up to now. When you enter into something with no antecedent knowledge, it's tough to just pick up and run with it. I feel like that's the single biggest mistake a lot of people make when teaching something: understand how little the person being taught may actually know.

[Heywood Jablomie]

My ruler does measure flush from its end. For me, measurements have helped me know at least if I'm in the ballpark, or to know where I started before making a change - measurements being reference points rather than specs.

[Eric***]

My ruler does measure flush from its end. For me, measurements have helped me know at least if I'm in the ballpark, or to know where I started before making a change - measurements being reference points rather than specs.

Oh, excellent. I'll probably pick one up in that case. Thanks!

[deeaa*]

Yeah, that's probably good and easier anyway. It's little tips like those that I've been missing up to now. When you enter into something with no antecedent knowledge, it's tough to just pick up and run with it. I feel like that's the single biggest mistake a lot of people make when teaching something: understand how little the person being taught may actually know.

Yeah, and I if anyone _should_ know that all too well...being a teacher...still I constantly run into situations where I assume way too much understanding of the thing at hand from my pupils due to them 'seeming' savvy with the subject...and then I go on and on and realize later they've fallen off the wagon forty minutes back and nobody said anything. I hate that! Especially if they are such a sulky bunch they only reveal it in their grading of the course.

Doesn't help that I myself am the type that just plunges in head first at anything at hand without too much thinking on whether it's hard or not. Many a time I've had these horrible feelings of getting in too deep when I've done something. Like when I tore down the entire plumbing/drainage/water system of my house...at some point I just stared at the gaping holes that went thru all the three stories of the house and for the first time really started thinking I've never done anything like that before, I've a friggin' Master of Philosophy degree not a construction professional...when I thought about all the things involved from electrics to pipes and toilet seats and tiling and concrete mixing and whatnot...cold hand groped my chest...



...but it turned out OK, I just found out how to do things as I went along.