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Thread: What about my poor Cry Baby?

  1. #1
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    Default What about my poor Cry Baby?

    I have a newer (late 90's to early 2k's) Dunlop Crybaby, marked Benicia California. I got it along with some comic books from a friend, and haven't much used it because to me it sounds like crap. It especially sucks tone when off. So first things first, I figure I should put a DPDT switch in there... but what else can be done to a Cry Baby? Anybody have any mods for it? Can I make it sound more like a vintage wah, or just generally better in any way?
    Guit Boxes: 87 MIJ Strat, Ibanez MIJ RG540, Korean Fender Dreadnaught, The Loar LH-500 (1934 L-5 Reproduction)

    Amp: Marshall TSL100 amp head with JCM900 1960 Lead 4 X 12 angled cab

    Effects: Crybaby, TS10 Tube Screamer, Badder Bad Monkey, Boss Metal Zone

  2. #2
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    I just replaced 2 older switches and made them true bypass with a 3PDT switch. It was easy and cheap.
    http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/me...egory_Code=SWI

    You could also install the fasel. http://www.effectsconnection.com/osc...x.php?cPath=45
    http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/me...Category_Code=

    This will help you with the wiring
    http://buildyourownclone.com/wahinstructions.pdf

    "No Tele For you." - The Tele Nazi

    Ha! Tele-ish now inbound.

  3. #3
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    Do you need a 3dpt switch Spud? I thought that was only necessary if you want to add an led indicator...
    Guit Boxes: 87 MIJ Strat, Ibanez MIJ RG540, Korean Fender Dreadnaught, The Loar LH-500 (1934 L-5 Reproduction)

    Amp: Marshall TSL100 amp head with JCM900 1960 Lead 4 X 12 angled cab

    Effects: Crybaby, TS10 Tube Screamer, Badder Bad Monkey, Boss Metal Zone

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by navvid View Post
    Do you need a 3dpt switch Spud? I thought that was only necessary if you want to add an led indicator...
    If you decide to add an led later then you won't have to buy another switch, and the cost is about the same.

    "No Tele For you." - The Tele Nazi

    Ha! Tele-ish now inbound.

  5. #5
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    some years back I had a standard CryBaby and ordered a Whipple mod kit on eBay for it
    As I recall the fellows name was MIke. He was very nice and helpful too. The kit came with a new inductor and pot if I recall and a selection of resistors so you could experiment with the voicing.
    I also did a by pass switch, but I don't remember if that was part of the kit or I got that separately

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    Hm, this thread made me want to mod my Vox wah. I'm not entirely happy with it; I'd like a much more voice-like growling response, you know, really 'gwaurrgnghgh...wangggg...weeee.....brrrööööp' kinda growling instead of the usual 'waauh waauh' :-)

    I found a few sites indicating that just changing one or two resistors would make the pedal much more vocal. Anybody have any particular suggestions on what to check out?
    Dee

    "When life's a biatch, be a horny dog"

    Amps: Marshall JVM 410H w/ Plexi Cap mod, Choke Mod & Negative Feedback Removal mod, 4x12", Behringer GMX110, Amplitube 3/StealthPedal

    Half a dozen custom built/bastardized guitars all with EMG's, mostly 85's, Ibanez Artwood acoustic & Yamaha SGR bass, Epiphone Prophecy SG, Vox Wah, Pitchblack tuner plus assorted pedals, rack gear etc. for home studio use.

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    Quote Originally Posted by deeaa View Post

    I found a few sites indicating that just changing one or two resistors would make the pedal much more vocal. Anybody have any particular suggestions on what to check out?
    Which resistors are the ones in question? Anybody know?
    Guit Boxes: 87 MIJ Strat, Ibanez MIJ RG540, Korean Fender Dreadnaught, The Loar LH-500 (1934 L-5 Reproduction)

    Amp: Marshall TSL100 amp head with JCM900 1960 Lead 4 X 12 angled cab

    Effects: Crybaby, TS10 Tube Screamer, Badder Bad Monkey, Boss Metal Zone

  8. #8
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    The 33K resistor in parallel with the inductor > swap to something higher all the way to 100K for extremely vocal character. 68K has been recommended.

    That sounds real interesting to me...also perhaps 1K5 resistor between the base of Q1 and the inductor should be replaced with a larger value, should give more midrange..1K8 or maybe more...that should smooth out the bass/treble transition for more midrangey action.

    I think I'll do the vocal mod at least shortly, as that's my main beef with the sound.
    Dee

    "When life's a biatch, be a horny dog"

    Amps: Marshall JVM 410H w/ Plexi Cap mod, Choke Mod & Negative Feedback Removal mod, 4x12", Behringer GMX110, Amplitube 3/StealthPedal

    Half a dozen custom built/bastardized guitars all with EMG's, mostly 85's, Ibanez Artwood acoustic & Yamaha SGR bass, Epiphone Prophecy SG, Vox Wah, Pitchblack tuner plus assorted pedals, rack gear etc. for home studio use.

  9. #9
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    Just a note from my experience, a lot of the wah mod pages talk about ripping out the transistor buffer as well. I removed mine when I did the true bypass, Q and vocal mods to my crybaby and it severely decreased it's usability. I basically have to run a buffered pedal after it to get it sounding decent, and forget about running a fuzzface after it. I'm actually looking at a custom PCB with FET input and output buffers and a bunch of other stuff just get make it sound like a normal wah again. If I could do it again I would ONLY do the true bypass mod, AND I wouldn't use a normal 3PDT stomp switch. They are noisy as hell, mechanically speaking. You can hear the switch mechanics as you rock the pedal. There are some nice switches out there designed for true BP and WAH use, but I can't recall exactly where I saw them...

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