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Thread: DR HandMade Strings

  1. #1
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    Default DR HandMade Strings

    To coat or not to coat? That will be a question discussed in this review on DR HandMade Strings, a boutique string manufacturer who has and continues to garner attention from the likes of legendary Bootsy Collins, Larry Coryell, Roy Clark, Mike D’Antonio, Steve Howe, Joe Walsh, the late Dimebag Darrell, and many others.

    Strings come in all different sizes and tonal flavours, and in such a range that it is apparent so many manufacturers are attempting to appeal to very diverse and discerning tastes from millions of guitar and bass players. As a result, you have arguments as to how strings should be wound, if nickel is better than phosphor bronze, etc., and obviously if coated strings are superior to non-coated strings.
    In regard to tone, any set of strings, coated or not, will have its own qualities that will appeal to some players and not others, and some guitarists will be drawn to coated strings because of a brightness that seems to set them apart from their non-coated counterparts. Still other axe swingers prefer non-coated strings as they ‘apparently’ offer a more full-bodied and harmonic experience. I’m not so sure about that, having tried DR HandMade Strings, but one thing is for certain, “it’s all in the ears!”

    An argument for coated strings is that they usually offer a smoother play and the tone lasts longer as these strings tend not to oxidize as quickly. Being a fan of coated strings, although I sometimes use less expensive non-coated brands when they’re on sale and inexpensive, it is quite apparent that they offer a smoother playing field and I have found they do last longer. However, it should be stated that I play only in a climate-controlled environment, never hot and humid, which is the bane of steel-based guitar strings. I have heard doubts of potential longer string life in other ‘gear’ reviews, but this will depend on the guitarist and how much s/he sweats playing in varying climates, etc., all of which could make less of a difference in the end if conditions are so extreme that any added string life is too short lived to make a good comparison. (Unfortunately, most reviews are based on ‘at the time’ conditions of hours or a few days of playing around with gear, and not using the product for several weeks or months.)

    When it comes to ‘feel,’ this is another issue for the preference of one string over another; it’s no different than the quality of a guitar neck, in that how it feels on the super sensitive finger tips becomes a very personal experience.

    And so, what we need to look when discussing any string is longevity, tone and feel. Having tried other coated strings, I can vouch for the longevity, and I have found they can last three times as long before sounding ‘dead’ or losing their grace. This makes sense since metal oxidizes when in contact with air, and if that metal is protected by a coating, to eliminate air exposure and hinder oxidation they will last longer. However, I would rather focus more on tone and feel rather than hyping coated-string dollar value/lifespan.

    Made in the USA, DR HandMade Strings have been around since 1989, but it’s only been recently that I’ve been a convert, switching over from a coated competitor. This next point may be true of other companies and products, but with the DR team being actual musicians who know what they want in strings (FYI: Mark Dronge, the founder of DR HandMade Strings is the son Guild Guitars founder, Al Dronge), it helps to set this company apart, similar to a luthier company that involves musicians crafting each instrument as opposed to regular people working an assembly line. A bit more heart and soul goes into production and you can’t put a value on that.

    Part of DR’s claim to fame is through their patented K3 coating, which purports to “sound as good or better than uncoated strings,” or at least that is the feedback DR has been receiving from its customers. I reserved judgement on that basis since strings are a faction of “I have to play to believe.” I doubt many guitarists have tried every conceivable string out there, and so it is a situation whereby a handful of strings have been tried and eventually a guitarist will pick and stick with one or only a few companies since s/he feels comfortable with the brand; and the sound/tone is ‘good enough’ that investing in different string companies is of little interest and you don’t want to lose out on what you have. I would speculate that I tried about 10-15 different string brands over the years, usually based on a guitar legend’s endorsement. What I can say about DR HandMade Strings is that they do sound as good as uncoated strings, but more importantly, from my perspective, they sound more ‘lively’ than other strings I have used. Generally speaking, there is a more tone-saturated quality to these strings, with a bit more sparkle, clarity, snap and even loudness.

    Recently, I tried three different sets of DR HandMade Strings, including the Neons, the DDTs and the Dragon Skins (for acoustics), all of which are packaged in envelopes using the Cortec protection to ensure corrosion resistance until use. DR’s website provides some general information on each string set, and so it’s difficult to articulate just how good these are without coming across as copying and pasting what’s already there. Nonetheless, here goes.

    The Neons are nickel plated strings wound on a hexagonal core (to increase gripping surface for longer intonation longevity), and they are just plain fun to use because of their bright and startling colors (green, orange and yellow). It’s a good way to set off a guitar, as though you have custom strings on your old six-shooter. Although you require a UV light to really show these off (and they truly do look like neon lights), their radiant colors remain attractive even without the UV. Fitted on my Les Paul Custom, Neons are very smooth on the fingers, and the pick rolls over more easily and very cleanly for those quick sweep patterns and metal runs than I have experienced with other brands. They are highly responsive to bending and vibrato and what becomes clear is the good volume of the higher strings and the tight bottom end of the lower strings. The tone may have an element of ‘bright and crisp,’ but there is nothing thin or tinny about them.

    The DDTs were designed, engineered and patented for drop-down tuning (although you can use them for any application), and so I took up this challenge with the lightest gauge that DR makes: 10-46. I have my Reverend ‘Unknown Hinson Signature’ guitar tuned to a C, four semi-tones lower than standard tuning and everything remained tight – surprisingly tight. This is not something I experienced with other (standard tuning) strings and you can tell these have been created with drop-tuning in mind. Even while hitting away on the open C string, the tone was very clear and not muddy. I avoided drop-tuning in the past because of that ‘garbled’ sound that often emanated from regular strings (and I do not care for really heavy gauge strings), but now I found a great solution.

    The Dragon Skin Acoustics put a smile on my face as much as the other DR strings. Fitted on an Ovation Celebrity guitar, these strings are warm, yet bright and punchy. Most obvious is how loud they are, which really took me by surprise since the thin-body Ovation I play is hardly known for its volume output. These phosphor bronze strings (with featured coated brass treble strings for added warmth and balance) ring out at nearly double the loudness as the Martin strings I used previously, and at the same string gauge (12-54). The Dragon Skins also were far easier on the fingers (and electric guitarists who play only occasional acoustic know what I mean) since the Dragon Skins offered an unusually low tension effect; and because of the coating there was less squeaking when the fingers slid up and down the neck.

    PLUSES: Extremely clear sounding with no tininess, these strings are smooth to the touch, loud and respond better than other strings I have tried.

    MINUSES: Sting sensitivity and tone is so subjective that you will need to try them for yourself to be a true believer!

  2. #2
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    Let the manufacturer decide if to coat or not (any manufacturer not just DR), let the manufacturer and distributer advertise, and let the player decide. That would be my answer.

    Whether to coat or not seems like a question that should be asked of every string manufacturer, rather than just DR. It is a manufacturing process that most of the companies utilize in their attempt to be competitive in a tuff market. Is it profitable to coat strings or counter productive?

    I would guess, from my totally uninformed standpoint, that most strings sold are of the non-coated type.

    Is it sensible for manufactures to invest in producing coated strings over the long run? What proportion of players buy coated strings? A poll of who uses and does not use coated strings, not just DR's, but a poll of which brand coated strings they buy might reveal some info on which brand is prefered by players.

    So, should DR coat or not coat strings? That is a matter totally up to the management of DR strings, and possibly based in part on their efforts to gather feedback as whether to do so or not.

    According to your description I suppose you would say "yes", but it is a highly subjective answer.
    Duffy Bolduc
    South Williamsport, Pa.

    "Now all the things that use to mean so much to me has got me old before my time." G. Allman, "Old Before My Time", Hittin' the Note.

    Major changes to guitars and amps, to be updated soon.

    Fiance - Supportive of musical art

  3. #3
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    Talking

    The question was rhetorical, but ok.

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    Obviously you answered your own question then.

    By your own account, I hope you enjoy them.
    Duffy Bolduc
    South Williamsport, Pa.

    "Now all the things that use to mean so much to me has got me old before my time." G. Allman, "Old Before My Time", Hittin' the Note.

    Major changes to guitars and amps, to be updated soon.

    Fiance - Supportive of musical art

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    Having tried many brands and types of strings, both acoustic and electric, I have found little difference between good-quality strings of the same type; not enough (if any) of a difference to actually give a recommendation. But I will concede that my favorite acoustic strings are DR Sunbeam, but not because they sound or feel better, just that they seem to last a little longer than others. They also cost more than other popular brands.

  6. #6
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    Thankfully, my sweat chemistry is very kind to strings so I never had to think about using coated strings. The only time I've been blown away by the difference in strings is the difference between Rotosound stainless bass strings and DR Hi Beams. Quite a difference in tone, but even more so in string tension given that they were the same gauge.
    Axen: Jackson DK2M, Fender Deluxe Nashville Telecaster, Reverend Warhawk 390, Taylor 914ce, ESP LTD Surveyor-414
    Amphen: Jet City JCA22H and JCA12S cab, Carvin X-60 combo, Acoustic B20
    Effecten: "Thesis 96" Overdrive/Boost (aka DVM OD2), Hardwire DL-8 Digital Delay/Looper, DigiTech Polara Reverb, DigiTech EX-7 Expression Factory and CF-7 Chorus Factory, Danelectro CF-1 Cool Cat Fuzz
    "I don't need no instructions to know how to rock!"--Carl Brutananadilewski

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    I just put a set of Webstrings "9"s on my Telecaster. I did notice a difference in tone compared to the Super Slinky's that I took off. The Supers had more "twang" to them, but I like the feel of the Webs and for the price, you cant go wrong IMHO
    Guitars: '06 Les Paul Classic Goldtop, '07 SG classic, '79 ES335TD Blond, '88 Telecaster, '08 Custom Shop Strat 57 NOS, Framus '69 Goucho Acoustic, '72 Framus Caravelle hollow body, '09 Hagstrom Swede, '10 Ibanez AG95 and '69 Heit

    Amps: Fender Blues Deluxe Tweed, Marshall JCM 900 50W full stack, Roland Cube 20XL and '69 Checkmate!

    Pedals: (all DVM) Tremolo, "Rabid Rodent" distortion, "Zonkin Yellow Screamer" OD/Boost, "Gee Ain't That Swell" volume swell, and "Mega Muff" fuzz

  8. #8
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    Marnold, which bass strings did you like best? I think Rotosound makes a special "high tension" set for a certain kind of bass. Maybe you got them instead of the regulars. A lot of dudes at talkbass.com really like rotosounds, especially the flats which are very popular there; Thomastik seem to be the ultimate in quality flats but are around 60 dollars US. A lot of guys I know use roundwound Rotosounds. Everything seems to be stainless, even the "monel" alloy Rotosound uses. I would like to try nickel wound flats or pure nickel flats.
    Duffy Bolduc
    South Williamsport, Pa.

    "Now all the things that use to mean so much to me has got me old before my time." G. Allman, "Old Before My Time", Hittin' the Note.

    Major changes to guitars and amps, to be updated soon.

    Fiance - Supportive of musical art

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    The DR Fatbeams are my bass string of choice for rounds.

    They feel much better, last longer, and have a more even tone than rotosounds.

    The HiBeams are nice too and are very similar to the Fatbeams (Marcus Miller Signature). Slightly different winding speed is the difference I'm told.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffy View Post
    Marnold, which bass strings did you like best? I think Rotosound makes a special "high tension" set for a certain kind of bass. Maybe you got them instead of the regulars. A lot of dudes at talkbass.com really like rotosounds, especially the flats which are very popular there; Thomastik seem to be the ultimate in quality flats but are around 60 dollars US. A lot of guys I know use roundwound Rotosounds. Everything seems to be stainless, even the "monel" alloy Rotosound uses. I would like to try nickel wound flats or pure nickel flats.
    I liked the DR Hi Beams way better than the Rotosounds. The ones I had were the normal ones. Something about a different core gives the Hi Beams a looser feel. I tried stainless strings to brighten up my dark Spector. I like the SIT nickel strings that came with my LTD. They have the same tension/feel as the Hi Beams. Eventually I may try Hi Beams on the LTD or just stick with the nickel ones. Back in the day, I used GHS Boomers on my Peavey Fury.

    It is entirely possible that I got a set of Rotosounds that was dead from the factory. Whatever the case, the Hi Beams were like night and day. They are highly recommended on TalkBass.

    A set of bass strings lasts me _years_.
    Axen: Jackson DK2M, Fender Deluxe Nashville Telecaster, Reverend Warhawk 390, Taylor 914ce, ESP LTD Surveyor-414
    Amphen: Jet City JCA22H and JCA12S cab, Carvin X-60 combo, Acoustic B20
    Effecten: "Thesis 96" Overdrive/Boost (aka DVM OD2), Hardwire DL-8 Digital Delay/Looper, DigiTech Polara Reverb, DigiTech EX-7 Expression Factory and CF-7 Chorus Factory, Danelectro CF-1 Cool Cat Fuzz
    "I don't need no instructions to know how to rock!"--Carl Brutananadilewski

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by marnold View Post
    I liked the DR Hi Beams way better than the Rotosounds. The ones I had were the normal ones. Something about a different core gives the Hi Beams a looser feel. I tried stainless strings to brighten up my dark Spector. I like the SIT nickel strings that came with my LTD. They have the same tension/feel as the Hi Beams. Eventually I may try Hi Beams on the LTD or just stick with the nickel ones. Back in the day, I used GHS Boomers on my Peavey Fury.

    It is entirely possible that I got a set of Rotosounds that was dead from the factory. Whatever the case, the Hi Beams were like night and day. They are highly recommended on TalkBass.

    A set of bass strings lasts me _years_.
    I'm converted to DR from rotos too.

    I found the roundwound Swingbass 66s to go dead relatively quickly and had a rough feel.

    The Fatbeams hold their brightness much longer and have a better feel to them. They sound really, really good too.

    Pricey? Yes. Worth it? Definitely!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by NWBasser View Post
    I'm converted to DR from rotos too.

    I found the roundwound Swingbass 66s to go dead relatively quickly and had a rough feel.
    I agree with that as well. They were rough to the point of almost feeling sticky. The Hi Beams don't feel like that, although these SIT nickels are even slicker.

    Quote Originally Posted by NWBasser View Post
    The Fatbeams hold their brightness much longer and have a better feel to them. They sound really, really good too.

    Pricey? Yes. Worth it? Definitely!
    The only gripe I have about the stainless ones is that when I play with a pick (a medium pointed V-pick) I get a distinct metallic tone that is not particularly pleasing. At least the DR strings aren't as expensive as the aforementioned Thomastik flats. Of course, one set of those will outlast the bass itself.
    Axen: Jackson DK2M, Fender Deluxe Nashville Telecaster, Reverend Warhawk 390, Taylor 914ce, ESP LTD Surveyor-414
    Amphen: Jet City JCA22H and JCA12S cab, Carvin X-60 combo, Acoustic B20
    Effecten: "Thesis 96" Overdrive/Boost (aka DVM OD2), Hardwire DL-8 Digital Delay/Looper, DigiTech Polara Reverb, DigiTech EX-7 Expression Factory and CF-7 Chorus Factory, Danelectro CF-1 Cool Cat Fuzz
    "I don't need no instructions to know how to rock!"--Carl Brutananadilewski

  13. #13
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    Found this interesting blog entry with clips of the various DR bass strings. The fat beams seem to have all the good stuff of the hi beams with maybe just a touch more low-end. Might help ameliorate that metallic tone with a pick.

    http://bassemporium.com/blog/?p=445
    Axen: Jackson DK2M, Fender Deluxe Nashville Telecaster, Reverend Warhawk 390, Taylor 914ce, ESP LTD Surveyor-414
    Amphen: Jet City JCA22H and JCA12S cab, Carvin X-60 combo, Acoustic B20
    Effecten: "Thesis 96" Overdrive/Boost (aka DVM OD2), Hardwire DL-8 Digital Delay/Looper, DigiTech Polara Reverb, DigiTech EX-7 Expression Factory and CF-7 Chorus Factory, Danelectro CF-1 Cool Cat Fuzz
    "I don't need no instructions to know how to rock!"--Carl Brutananadilewski

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