Here's how you do the seasonal truss rod adjustment etc. (it usually happens at seasonal change time and because of humidity and temp changes.)
- Remove the headstock truss rod cover and find a suitable wrench for the rod
- With the guitar in tune, press your finger on 1st fret of high E and the last fret of same, so that the string lays flat on the frets. While holding it, gently pick it in the middle. The aim is to have _some_ clearance on the neck, i.e. it has to be very slightly bowed and the string should just barely ring free between the 1st and last frets. Just barely, but cleanly.
If there is loads of room for the string to vibrate, you need to tighten the truss rod (i.e. turn clockwise looking down from the headstock to the guitar) until there's only a slight bow left.
If the string just goes 'brrt' over the frets, you need to loosen the neck to get it first straight and then give it just a touch of bow. (turn anti-clockwise)
- Mind you: do NOT turn the truss rod screw too much at once. Usually 1/4 turn is absolutely the max at once, unless you really know your guitar and such.
When you have turned it some, re-tune and play the guitar for a while, preferably let it sit a day or at least some hours before adjusting more. You can also physically help the neck settle into the new position by bending it back and forth a little as you'd do neck vibrato.
You might want to leave the truss rod cover off for a few days and do some small adjustments as you play it over the next days.
That's all there is to it. Very easy, something every guitarist learns how to do in just a minute or two very soon, at least if they live somewhere with plenty of humidity changes :-)
Neck relief has nothing to do with saddle and bridge height though, but it's useless to adjust those unless the neck relief is just right.
Only after the neck relief is where you want it to be, (some people like it almost or even completely flat, especially if they use thin strings and play distorted only and some want more clearance if they play fat strings and go for pure cleans), you can start to adjust the bridge height. Loosen the strings some so it's easy to move the adjustment nuts...I use a long needle-nose plier to access them from the side so I don't have to loosen them all the way...and just set it to the height you want them to be.
Neck relief preferences also depend on the guitar; where exactly does the neck bend the most? Some necks bend quite evenly from about 14th fret towards the headstock and may work well with little relief, some bend clearly more sharply from like 5th forwards like my Gibson did, and work really the best with quite a lot of relief but setting the bridge really low...some guitars have clearly more relief on the bass side (like they should) etc. etc....it's absolutely crucial to find the best relief for YOUR preference, guitar and style. If you can find that, basically any guitar that doesn't have physical faults like jutting frets, can play perfectly 'like butter', no difference if it's a $20K or $100 axe. Simple mechanics only.
I have had LOTS of guitars that have required loads of adjustment...my Gibson was the worst by far, it had to be adjusted at least 4 times a year. I've tried to get rid of all such axes over the years and the ones that have the most stable woods etc. are the ones I stick with. I do currently have this Squier that needs plenty of adjustments, but I also have a few custom builds that need no adjustment at all, and my Epi Prophecy seems to require only a little and rarely.
Dee
"When life's a biatch, be a horny dog"
Amps: Marshall JVM 410H w/ Plexi Cap mod, Choke Mod & Negative Feedback Removal mod, 4x12", Behringer GMX110, Amplitube 3/StealthPedal
Half a dozen custom built/bastardized guitars all with EMG's, mostly 85's, Ibanez Artwood acoustic & Yamaha SGR bass, Epiphone Prophecy SG, Vox Wah, Pitchblack tuner plus assorted pedals, rack gear etc. for home studio use.
Regular Fretter
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