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Thread: Do I Need To Replace The Bridge?

  1. #1
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    Question Do I Need To Replace The Bridge?

    Now that I'm getting into this 6-strang-electified-thang I find my ear is getting "tuned" to certain sounds and tones.

    I've noticed that I get a "plink" or "buzz" kinda sound, mostly from the first 3 (highest) strings. I don't think it's audible through the amp, especially at performance levels, but I sure notice it when practicing at home.

    I've seen posts here about replacing the bridge on the 51 to improve tone and fix "buzzes". Do you think that's the case here?

    I have a 'bucker in the bridge position of my EXP tele-type. Thoughts Re: a GFS bridge like THIS ?

    Or how about this idea: since I'm getting my Cherry Bomb (HB-30), that covers 'bucker territory very well - should I replace the bridge and pop in a single coil for more twang-a-lang?

    Or should I keep Ol' Hartley for backup since it'll cover both in a pinch and aquire a maple neck/maple fretboard Tele?

    See how one simple thing turns into a whole bunch of perplexing issues?

    Help a brother out. I'd appreciate it
    Electrics: Hagstrom Ultra Swede (Gold Eagle Burst) Gretsch 5120 Electromatic (Orange) Custom Nashville Blackout Telecaster (Black, Stat mid/neck p'ups; Lil Puncher (Modern Vintage) bridge p'up; Wilkinson Compensated Bridge w/ 3 brass saddles, Warmoth Vintage Modern Birdseye Maple Neck) Fender MIM Stratocaster (Blue Agave, Rosewood Fretboard, Fender Tex-Mex p'ups; GFS Trem/Block Kit) Highland Spitfire (semi-hollow, flame maple top w/ bubinga inlay)
    Acoustics:Washburn D10CEQSB, Yamaha FG160E
    Bass: Westone Spectrum ST, Warwick Rockbass Corvette Basic Active
    Amps: Vox NT15H/V112NT Night Train, Peavey Bandit 112, Hartke HyDrive 210C Bass Amp, Vox DA5


  2. #2
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    I recently had that exact problem with a buzz/plonk on the 2-3rd frets of the high E. I took it to my setup guy and he adjusted the neck and problem solved.

    He told me the reason that it started to do that was because of a combination of 2 things. One was because the last time he set the neck up for standard A440 tuning and I had tuned it to E flat, And secondly when the temperature dropped down to the 40s last month the neck bent differently causing the bad tone.

    I would have someone set the neck first before you change out the bridge
    Ron Paul is like Kryptonite to Tyranny

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big_Rob
    I would have someone set the neck first before you change out the bridge
    Thanks Big Rob! I was thinking of doing just that anyway as I'm having some minor tuning/intonation issues as well - looks/feels like I have too much relief in the neck and pull notes sharp. I'll give that a shot.

    Trev
    Electrics: Hagstrom Ultra Swede (Gold Eagle Burst) Gretsch 5120 Electromatic (Orange) Custom Nashville Blackout Telecaster (Black, Stat mid/neck p'ups; Lil Puncher (Modern Vintage) bridge p'up; Wilkinson Compensated Bridge w/ 3 brass saddles, Warmoth Vintage Modern Birdseye Maple Neck) Fender MIM Stratocaster (Blue Agave, Rosewood Fretboard, Fender Tex-Mex p'ups; GFS Trem/Block Kit) Highland Spitfire (semi-hollow, flame maple top w/ bubinga inlay)
    Acoustics:Washburn D10CEQSB, Yamaha FG160E
    Bass: Westone Spectrum ST, Warwick Rockbass Corvette Basic Active
    Amps: Vox NT15H/V112NT Night Train, Peavey Bandit 112, Hartke HyDrive 210C Bass Amp, Vox DA5


  4. #4
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    That is a good tip, but if the problem persists then go to the nut next. Sometimes if they aren't cut just right they can produce odd sounds.

    "No Tele For you." - The Tele Nazi

    Ha! Tele-ish now inbound.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spudman
    That is a good tip, but if the problem persists then go to the nut next. Sometimes if they aren't cut just right they can produce odd sounds.
    So how exactly does one fix a nut?


    & after your done fixin' me, tell me how you fix the nut on a guitar.
    I pick a moon dog.

  6. #6
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    Spudman's right a nut can make all kinds of odd sounds if it is not cut just right. It is pretty tough to explain in detail how to cut one or correct one but I can see if I can get some info from Melvyn Hiscock or Dan Erlewine's books. I could probably scan something from there but I don't think I should put it on the web. These are two excellent books, Melvyn's book, (Make Your Own Electric Guitar) is on building guitars, which has all kinds of info. The ISBN no. is 0-9531049-0-7 and Dan's book, (Guitar Player Repair Guide) is on set-up, maintainance and repair. His ISBN no. is 0-87930-291-7. If anyone does not want to go into the depth of building then Dan Erlewine's repair guide would probably be the way to go.

    Something that is important about nut slots is that they need to be angled back so the string has a small footprint to ring off of but not too small. If the string lays on a wide surface it can buzz or make other odd sounds and probably have intonation issues. Also if the angle is not sufficient you can have wierd sounds as well. The width of the slot is important to keep the string from binding which will cause tuning issues especially with a tremolo. Nut files are not cheap so any of us that mess with guitar mods are always looking for cheap ways to file our own slots. One thing some have tried is welding tip cleaners which are round and have a se surface in different small diameters. I have tried these and I suggest getting a set as they are real inexpensive and sometimes get you through the job. Another tool I just found out about is scroll saw blades in appropriate sizes that match the strings you use. I am anxious to find some of these to try.
    Most of this info I have found on this site, these people have been extremely helpful. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?

    Be careful messing with your nuts you may ruin them and have to replace them



    I don't know if this is of any help and I am rather inexperianced at this and am learning all the time so I recommend either of the books I mentioned or even searching the web will bring up articles on this that might help.

    M29

  7. #7
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    I adjusted the neck and it has cured the intonation issue (however slight it may have been). I guess with the onset of winter, change in temp/humidity it was due. Seems to have helped the 'plonk' 'plink' a little bit, but I'm still curious if a heavier bridge/saddle combo would help the overall tone.

    The nut is a pre-cut Graph-tec that I had professionally installed after botching my last attempt at cutting my own (there was a thread here earlier this summer on that subject).

    Since getting my Cherry Bomb last night, I've been playing with my gits all morning. As much as I love Cherry, I'm finding a new appreciation for Ol' Hartley as the sounds/tones are so different. Two axes are indeed better than one.

    Now, about that maple fretboard...
    Electrics: Hagstrom Ultra Swede (Gold Eagle Burst) Gretsch 5120 Electromatic (Orange) Custom Nashville Blackout Telecaster (Black, Stat mid/neck p'ups; Lil Puncher (Modern Vintage) bridge p'up; Wilkinson Compensated Bridge w/ 3 brass saddles, Warmoth Vintage Modern Birdseye Maple Neck) Fender MIM Stratocaster (Blue Agave, Rosewood Fretboard, Fender Tex-Mex p'ups; GFS Trem/Block Kit) Highland Spitfire (semi-hollow, flame maple top w/ bubinga inlay)
    Acoustics:Washburn D10CEQSB, Yamaha FG160E
    Bass: Westone Spectrum ST, Warwick Rockbass Corvette Basic Active
    Amps: Vox NT15H/V112NT Night Train, Peavey Bandit 112, Hartke HyDrive 210C Bass Amp, Vox DA5


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by M29
    Be careful messing with your nuts you may ruin them and have to replace them M29
    People used to tell me that all the time. That or I'd go blind!
    Electrics: Hagstrom Ultra Swede (Gold Eagle Burst) Gretsch 5120 Electromatic (Orange) Custom Nashville Blackout Telecaster (Black, Stat mid/neck p'ups; Lil Puncher (Modern Vintage) bridge p'up; Wilkinson Compensated Bridge w/ 3 brass saddles, Warmoth Vintage Modern Birdseye Maple Neck) Fender MIM Stratocaster (Blue Agave, Rosewood Fretboard, Fender Tex-Mex p'ups; GFS Trem/Block Kit) Highland Spitfire (semi-hollow, flame maple top w/ bubinga inlay)
    Acoustics:Washburn D10CEQSB, Yamaha FG160E
    Bass: Westone Spectrum ST, Warwick Rockbass Corvette Basic Active
    Amps: Vox NT15H/V112NT Night Train, Peavey Bandit 112, Hartke HyDrive 210C Bass Amp, Vox DA5


  9. #9
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    You could also have a fret or two that is too high. That's another thing which will cause strange noises, and it is not an infrequent issue on Chinese-built guitars.

    I'd definitely stop by a competent luthier and ask him/her to check it out.
    Rob Smith
    I AM the bass player!


    GUITARS: '93 ZON Sonus 4, '85 G&L L-2000 (Mahogany), '05 Schecter Stiletto Custom 4, '06 SX SJB-62MG (Fretless), '07 Squier Bronco (project), '06 Ibanez AEB10E-BK acoustic bass, '70s Epiphone OO-sized acoustic, '94 Peavey Reactor (extreme makeover edition)


    AMPS: '03 Ampeg BA115 bass combo, '86 Peavey MkIV Series 400 bass head, SWR Workingman's cabs, 2x10" & 1x15", '00 Peavey Micro Bass

  10. #10
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    Hey T, this looks like it might be helpful, it even has a diagnosis link at the bottom:

    http://guitar.about.com/gi/dynamic/o.../buzzlist.html

    I'm no luthier for sure, but having chased BSRs (Buzzes, Squeaks and Rattles) for years in the auto industry, I might suggest these basic steps for anything subject to vibration in the event your noise is a hardware issue.
    Check every fastener (bolt, screw, etc) for proper tightness.
    Use pressure (your finger or someone else's, duct tape) to on various movable parts, or parts that contact movable parts while creating the noise to try and isolate the culprit. On my Ibanez, I get a buzz from the neck pick up of all things, that I found this way.
    Maple neck Tele? GAS will cure this for sure!
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  11. #11
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    Thanks M29! I think you may have mentioned those books before. I've seen the prices on nut files...Yikes!

    Next time I replace my strings I gonna take a good look at my nuts & see if they need a little work.

    OK you can stop giggling now
    I pick a moon dog.

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