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June 6th, 2016, 05:14 PM
#1
Good info DVM! thank you. Since I have ordered the BYOC economy soldering station, and it is variable setting between 5-40watts, how do I want to set it for doing the type of work I was doing here? I have seen some internet discussion about temps, but have no idea how it translates related to the wattage. Also, I presume there is a good technique for turning it down between periods of work to avoid "blacking the tip"? Any tips for this solder slob?
Steve Thompson
Sun Valley, Idaho
Guitars: Fender 60th Anniversary Std. Strat, Squier CVC Tele Hagstrom Viking Semi-hollow, Joshua beach guitar, Martin SPD-16TR Dreadnought
Amphs: Peavey Classic 30, '61 Fender Concert
Effects and such: Boss: DS-1, CE-5, NS-2 and RC20XL looper, Digitech Bad Monkey, Korg AX1G Multi-effects, Berhinger: TU100 tuner, PB100 Clean Boost, Line 6 Toneport UX2, Electro Harmonix Little Big Muff Pi, DuhVoodooMan's Rabid Rodent Rat Clone, Zonkin Yellow Screamer Mk. II, MXR Carbon Copy Delay
love is the answer, at least for most of the questions in my heart. . .
- j. johnson
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June 6th, 2016, 06:36 PM
#2
Originally Posted by
sunvalleylaw
Since I have ordered the BYOC economy soldering station, and it is variable setting between 5-40watts, how do I want to set it for doing the type of work I was doing here?....Also, I presume there is a good technique for turning it down between periods of work to avoid "blacking the tip"? Any tips for this solder slob?
I just leave mine set to 700F (~370C) for everything. Since (1) I have had it since late 2009, (2) used it for at least 150 pedal builds plus various other guitar and lighter amp work, and (3) the two tips both look essentially the same as when they were used the first time, I guess I wouldn't worry too much about tip damage at that kind of heat setting. Of course, with a different iron, "YMMV"....but not by that much, I'd suspect.
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June 7th, 2016, 02:56 PM
#3
Originally Posted by
duhvoodooman
I just leave mine set to 700F (~370C) for everything. Since (1) I have had it since late 2009, (2) used it for at least 150 pedal builds plus various other guitar and lighter amp work, and (3) the two tips both look essentially the same as when they were used the first time, I guess I wouldn't worry too much about tip damage at that kind of heat setting. Of course, with a different iron, "YMMV"....but not by that much, I'd suspect.
OK, I have no idea how to translate the wattage into temp but maybe the instructions on the BYOC will say, as I bet machines differ. If you know of a general guide to translating what wattage setting, say 35W or 40W equals 700F or whatever, please point this soldering noob in the right direction. Thanks for all your insights!
Steve Thompson
Sun Valley, Idaho
Guitars: Fender 60th Anniversary Std. Strat, Squier CVC Tele Hagstrom Viking Semi-hollow, Joshua beach guitar, Martin SPD-16TR Dreadnought
Amphs: Peavey Classic 30, '61 Fender Concert
Effects and such: Boss: DS-1, CE-5, NS-2 and RC20XL looper, Digitech Bad Monkey, Korg AX1G Multi-effects, Berhinger: TU100 tuner, PB100 Clean Boost, Line 6 Toneport UX2, Electro Harmonix Little Big Muff Pi, DuhVoodooMan's Rabid Rodent Rat Clone, Zonkin Yellow Screamer Mk. II, MXR Carbon Copy Delay
love is the answer, at least for most of the questions in my heart. . .
- j. johnson
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June 8th, 2016, 11:48 AM
#4
Originally Posted by
sunvalleylaw
OK, I have no idea how to translate the wattage into temp but maybe the instructions on the BYOC will say, as I bet machines differ. If you know of a general guide to translating what wattage setting, say 35W or 40W equals 700F or whatever, please point this soldering noob in the right direction. Thanks for all your insights!
Some soldering stations (like my Hakko) have a controller that is marked in degrees C or F--can't tell from the photo on the BYOC site if the station they sell is one of these or not. I'll see if I can get more info from them...