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6 saddle bridge
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Thread: 6 saddle bridge

  1. #1
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    Default 6 saddle bridge

    Hey peeps, my Nash. has the 6 saddle type bridge (if there is a proper name for this, please let me know) with 2 set screws per saddle. Is there a prefered string height adj. technique ?
    I have also seen the 3 saddle type. Is one better than the other ?

    a few minutes later...

    Apparently I have this as per Fender website...
    " American Vintage 6-Saddle, Strings-Thru-Body Tele Bridge "

    The other is called .. "Vintage Style 3-Saddle Strings-Thru-Body Tele Bridge"

    thanks

    Ted
    Last edited by ted s; January 31st, 2007 at 03:52 PM. Reason: typo

  2. #2
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    Does Fender supply a guide to help with string heights?

    I normally adjust my string heights based on the radius of the fretboard...somewhat. I don't follow the radius to a T but I do have a slight curvature going on when you look down the strings from low E. I will lower them to height until they start buzzing then raise them a little higher than that. I do that for each string but I gently increase the height of each consecutive string to produce that slight curve up to the middle D and G strings...then from the B down to the high E I decrease the height consecutively again. Thats how I do it anyway.

    I have the vintage 3 saddle bridge on my Tele and I love it. You can still achieve the curvature on the bridge by carefully raising one side of the saddle adjustment screws required to get the radial pitch for each set of strings per saddle.
    Guitars/Bass - MIM Fender Classic 50s Strat, MIM Fender Standard Strat, Squier Classic Vibe 50s Tele, Gibson Les Paul Studio, Epi '56 Gold Top Les Paul, Martin DSR acoustic, Sigma Martin Auditorium electric/acoustic, Squier Jazz Bass.

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  3. #3
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    Thanks Tone, I'm ok with getting the height adjustment, looking at my post now, I think my question didn't nail what was in my head, sorry.. I was wondering more about the adjust. opposite side of the string on the saddle. When I did mine, I raised the set screws al the way up and then adjusted the string side screw first, then lowered the opposite end enough to keep tension on the screw. End result seems ok to me, the saddles are in a sawtooth formation. Does this sound reasonable ?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ted s
    Thanks Tone, I'm ok with getting the height adjustment, looking at my post now, I think my question didn't nail what was in my head, sorry.. I was wondering more about the adjust. opposite side of the string on the saddle. When I did mine, I raised the set screws al the way up and then adjusted the string side screw first, then lowered the opposite end enough to keep tension on the screw. End result seems ok to me, the saddles are in a sawtooth formation. Does this sound reasonable ?

    Whaaa??

    Are you talking about the intonation screws??

  5. #5
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    No, not intonation screws. The height adj. screws in the saddle, 2 of 'em, one on either side of the saddle.

  6. #6
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    I don't think we understand what you are trying to say.
    Guitars/Bass - MIM Fender Classic 50s Strat, MIM Fender Standard Strat, Squier Classic Vibe 50s Tele, Gibson Les Paul Studio, Epi '56 Gold Top Les Paul, Martin DSR acoustic, Sigma Martin Auditorium electric/acoustic, Squier Jazz Bass.

    Amps/Cabinets/Modelers - Model 2558 50 watt Marshall Silver Anniversary Jubilee combo w/ Celestion Vintage 30s, 4x12 Marshall cabinet w/25 watt Greenback Celestions, Fender Blues Junior w/ a couple of Billm mods, Line 6 POD 2.0, Roland Micro Cube

    Pedals/Effects - Cry Baby Classic Wah, Boss TU-2, Boss NS-2, Boss RC-2 Loop Station, Ross Compressor, MXR Micro Amp, Danelectro FAB Echo, Danelectro FAB Chorus, Danelectro Chicken Salad, Marshall Guv'nor Plus, Marshall Echohead, Duhvoodooman's Zonkin' Yellow Screamer, Digitech Digiverb, Digitech Bad Monkey, Dunlop Fuzz Face, Homemade Loop Bypass pedal, Duhvoodooman's Sonic Tonic (Maxon SD-9 clone +), Voodoo Labs Superfuzz

  7. #7
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    That's Ok, not sure I do now either !?
    Thanks for listening.

  8. #8
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    You want the saddles level and use the height of the string as a guide. This is done with the strings detuned a little so you dont overly stretch them while raising the saddles

    from fender's website:
    Action

    Players with a light touch can get away with lower action, others need higher action to avoid rattles. Check tuning. Using 6" (150 mm) ruler, measure distance between bottom of strings and top of the 17th fret. Adjust bridge saddles to the height according to the chart, then re-tune. Experiment with the height until the desired sound and feel is achieved.

    Neck Radius String Height
    Bass Side Treble Side
    7.25"
    9.5" to 12"
    15" to 17" 5/64" (2 mm)
    4/64" (1.6 mm)
    4/64" (1.6 mm) 4/64" (1.6 mm)
    4/64" (1.6 mm)
    3/64" (1.2 mm)

    http://fender.com/support/setup/telesetup.php

  9. #9
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    Thanks Moshe, saddles level, that's the part I was looking for, why didn't I just say that ??

  10. #10
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    What guitar specificlly? Can we see the OEM bridge? Or is that it(although I dont think so)?

    Ive got a tele, and know how to do the adjustments...I just wanna see which bridge specificlly.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShortBuSX
    What guitar specificlly? Can we see the OEM bridge? Or is that it(although I dont think so)?

    Ive got a tele, and know how to do the adjustments...I just wanna see which bridge specificlly.
    Nashville deluxe, same as the picture in post #5, look up, way up ^
    Last edited by ted s; February 2nd, 2007 at 05:34 PM.

  12. #12
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    Wow! Cool bridge!

    Id start with lowering the saddles till it just starts to get fret buzz(fret it in different locations with various normal picking techniques) and then raise back em up a little till it stops. The fret board radius will practiclly radius the saddles for you if you follow this method and youll get the lowest possible action without it fretting out on you.

    Youll need to check your intonation again after you raise and lower the saddles, and itd probably be a good idea to do all this with a new set of strings(thats the only way Ive been able to intonate mine properlly)...fret the 12th on each string and make use your E is an E at the 12 etc...

    And then try using a slide(if you normally do)...and make sure youre not missing any strings...I dunno if that makes any sense? Itll kinda fret out on the slide if its lower than the other strings, youll need to raise that saddle up if that string buzzes with the slide. Did that help?

    My bridge and saddles arent like yours exactly...but sometimes if the 2 set screws arent at the same height, the string will make the saddle(and screw) vibrate against the bridge...to me this is almost as annoying as fret buzz....so if you hear it, just raise the lower of the 2 set screws to equall height and it should go away.

  13. #13
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    Thanks ShortbusX !.....

  14. #14
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    Heres something I had previously gathered when I was setting up my Tele saddles and intonation

    Set the pickup selector in the middle, volume and tone controls to the max.
    Check tuning. Check each string at the 12th fret harmonic to fretted note
    (make sure you are depressing the string evenly to the fret). If sharp,
    lengthen string by adjusting the saddle back. If flat, shorten string by
    moving the saddle forward. Remember guitars are tempered instruments,
    retune, play and make further adjustments as needed.
    I go a step further on the intonation, checking the E on all strings...I do the 12 harmonic on the high e sting, 5th fret on the B string, 9th fret on the G, 14th on the D string, 7th on the A string and then fret the 12th on the low E.

    You cant really adjust the saddle height without messing with the intonation...itll take you a couple of days to get it just so...but youll be pleased afterwards!

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