Plugging and redrilling neck mounting screws - suggestions?

[tremoloman***]

Before I get started let me just say I AM AN IDIOT!

Over the weekend I started to put my Jagmaster together with the recently acquired Tele neck with the reverse headstock as you suggested. I had checked to see if a Strat neck fit on this once before and it did fit (or so I thought). Sadly I discovered that the Jagmaster body's neck mounting screws are a little off to one side. The screw pattern is exactly the same as any Tele or Strat, but the pattern on the neck pocket is off to one side.

Has anyone ever tried plugging and redrilling neck mounting screws before? I'm sure it can be done relatively easily. My theory is that I can plug the holes with dowels and wood glue, let them settle, then use the old Jagmaster neck as a template as the dimensions match Fender standards perfectly.

Before I give this a shot do any of you have any tips or suggestions?

I am going to use an old worn out neck as a test model before I go for the real thing. I'm not going to ruin a brand new neck. I'll pay someone to do it if I have to.

Thank you for your time.

-Trem

[Spudman***]

Sounds like you have it figured out.

Get hardwood dowels just a tiny bit bigger than your existing neck screw holes, unless the holes are already exactly a dowel size.

Drill the neck holes to the same size as the dowel diameter. BUT FIRST! put a smaller drill bit into the neck screw hole without putting it in the drill. This is a depth gauge. Wrap a piece of tape around the bit where the top of the neck hole is. Then stand that bit (point down) next to the one you are going to actually use and put tape on it 1/32" lower than on the test bit. This will give you a guide of how deep to go unless you have a drill press with a gauge on it.

Cut your dowels to the depth of the bit so the ends are flush with the back of the neck.

Put a tiny drop of glue into the hole. Coat the outside of the dowel with glue like you are greasing it up to slide into the hole. If you put all the glue in the hole and then try to force the dowel in you can split the wood from too much pressure. * In fact, you might not even want to put that tiny drop of glue into the hole first if it's really tight.

You can test the hole diameter with a long piece of dowel. That way you can pull it back out.

Gently tap the cut dowel till it is flush with the back of the neck and then wait 48 hrs.

Drill your holes in your holeless neck.

To know where the center of the holes are going to be use a bit slightly smaller than the holes in the body. Put the neck into place on the body, put the bit down through the hole and press firmly to leave an indentation on the neck. This dimple will be your hole center.

Good luck!

The secretary will disavow any knowledge of my action.

[kerc]

I think you can work it out. Just take it easy and don't rush anything!

[M29]

Great advise here from the guys tremoloman!!

I might add a couple things. It might be good to put a high and low E string on and clamp the neck into position before you mark your holes, (watch those frets when clamping). This will insure you have enough space on each side of the neck for string clearance, I found many bodys and necks that did not line up quite like you wished. My Warmoth body had the alignment off a touch with a Squier neck I have and I ordered my new neck with no holes from Warmoth so I can make sure everything lines up right before I drill the mounting holes, I don't even trust them to drill my holes and it is their neck and body.
Another thing to watch out for is when drilling the holes. Sometimes the part that you are drilling can climb up the drill and go too far before you can stop it. It might be good to secure the neck down before you drill and go easy on the speed and pressure which I know you will do when you start that drill bit turning.

Something I just saw the other day was someone filed a small slot on four sides of each dowel plug so excess glue could escape when you push them into the hole which should help them seat fully into the hole and not form a hydraulic lock. I don't know how good this idea is as on one hand I like to have a nice tight full glue contact all the way around the dowel but it was an interesting idea. Any thoughts on this guys?

Just some thoughts.

M29

[Spudman***]

Something I just saw the other day was someone filed a small slot on four sides of each dowel plug so excess glue could escape when you push them into the hole which should help them seat fully into the hole and not form a hydraulic lock. I don't know how good this idea is as on one hand I like to have a nice tight full glue contact all the way around the dowel but it was an interesting idea. Any thoughts on this guys?

M29

Great idea to have if you need it. Probably wouldn't need to go deep either on the grooves.

[tremoloman***]

Thank you SO MUCH for the outstanding advise and quick respose! I feel very lucky to be in the presense of such friendly amd caring people such as yourselves.

I've printed out your comments and I'm going to work with my ol' man to correct my big boo-boo.

I'll let you know how it goes once I'm finished. Like I said, I'm going to try this on a test neck first so I don't ruin a perfectly good neck. I've done that once before so I'm going to be extra careful this time around.

Thanks again!!!

[M29]

Hello tremoloman,

Be sure and let the glue dry real good before putting tension on those strings, the glue at the bottom of the holes with those plugs will not get air very good and may not dry for quite a while.

All the best.

M29

[tremoloman***]

Thanks for the heads up. I'll leave the neck in my attic for a week before I attempt to drill holes. It gets super hot up there so it should do the trick. I also use it to dry bodies and fade plastics - works great!

Hello tremoloman,

Be sure and let the glue dry real good before putting tension on those strings, the glue at the bottom of the holes with those plugs will not get air very good and may not dry for quite a while.

All the best.

M29