Replaced the nut on my Fullerton ST-3 -- help

[Pickngrin]

I decided to replace the lame plastic nut on my $29 Fullerton ST-3 strat style guitar. Guitar Center sold me a pre-slotted graphite (All Parts) strat nut. I was able to remove the stock nut, although a small chunk of rosewood came off in front of the nut (ie, closer to the headstock). I superglued that back on; at least it wasn't past the fret. Anyhow, I had to do some mild sanding on the graphite nut, as the depth was too great to fit in the groove where the nut sits. (see photos below)






Now, I see that the nut does not sit competely flat in the channel, and the strings, particularly the bass strings, seem to more or less sit on top of the nut. If I bend the G or high E string in the first few frets, the string pops out of the slot. I don't have fancy luthier files or anything.
Two questions:
1. Should I remove this nut because of the way it is sitting (not flush)?
2. Is there a way I can create somewhat deeper string slots with sandpaper or something to that effect?

Thanks!

[ShortBuSX]

You could use an old string...I tend to use smaller diameter strings, like Id use an A string to help "cut" the E string groove...and so on.

[Tone2TheBone]

On your next nut replacement score a line around the existing nut with a razor blade to keep the nut from tearing chucks of wood or finish off.

[Pickngrin]

On your next nut replacement score a line around the existing nut with a razor blade to keep the nut from tearing chucks of wood or finish off.

Thanks... I actually did do that this time, but I guess not thoroughly enough...

[LagrangeCalvert]

On your next nut replacement score a line around the existing nut with a razor blade to keep the nut from tearing chucks of wood or finish off.

+1 tone....getting the nut out clean is key....a small set of files from harbor freight does the trick (3-5 dollars) and you can use them for all other sorts of guitar related things!..deburing fret sprout and so on...use a fine rat tail file and it should do the trick, but make sure you don't cut the nut too deep.

[duhvoodooman***]

INow, I see that the nut does not sit competely flat in the channel, and the strings, particularly the bass strings, seem to more or less sit on top of the nut. If I bend the G or high E string in the first few frets, the string pops out of the slot....

Do you use particularly large gauge strings? I could understand this behavior if the nut was cut for a set of 9's and you use 11's or 12's, or a "bottom-heavy" set.

I replaced the nut on my Fullerton ST4 with a pre-cut Tusq nut from StewMac this past weekend, and haven't run into this at all. I have a set of D'Addario EXL110's (0.10 - 046) on the guitar.

[Pickngrin]

Do you use particularly large gauge strings? I could understand this behavior if the nut was cut for a set of 9's and you use 11's or 12's, or a "bottom-heavy" set.

I replaced the nut on my Fullerton ST4 with a pre-cut Tusq nut from StewMac this past weekend, and haven't run into this at all. I have a set of D'Addario EXL110's (0.10 - 046) on the guitar.

No, actually I use a set of D'Addario .10...

[duhvoodooman***]

No, actually I use a set of D'Addario .10...

Hmmm, I guess that Allparts nut must just be inadequately slotted.

BTW, The Tusq nut I used was a bit too wide for the slot in my Fullerton, too. It was about 0.13" wide and the slot was about 0.115". A few minutes of careful sanding did the trick.

[Pickngrin]

Crap... before I messed with the nut, I had this guitar intonated and playing great. Couldn't do that with the new nut. I just switched back to the original plastic nut and I still can't get this thing intonated. Did I somehow screw up the neck or something? I know it's a cheapie guitar, but I liked the way it was playing... How can I 'start over'?

[oldguy]

Did I somehow screw up the neck or something? I know it's a cheapie guitar, but I liked the way it was playing... How can I 'start over'?

I can sympathize with you, Pickngrin. I've asked myself that question many a time.
You "start over" by starting back through each step and making adjustments to get the guitar back into playing shape. It can be time-consuming and frustrating, but you can do it!
If the only thing you changed (and then changed back) was the nut, you should be able to intonate the guitar again. One strat copy I own is very touchy, anything from a neck shim to a string gauge change throws it out. I then sit w/ a tuner, readjusting intonation on ea. string open and @ the12th fret 3 or 4 times till I get it right. I start w/ low E (bass string) and work across ea. one through all six, then start over and check till they are right.
If you took the strings off to change the nut, you might want to tune it up to pitch and leave it set awhile so the neck settles it to the tension before you intonate it. Some necks are touchier than others.
This may not help one bit, but we're pulling for you, and cheering from the sidelines.
Good luck!

[WackyT]

I know this is probably common knowledge to a lot of people here, but I had no idea what the nut height was supposed to be for the replacement Tusq nut on my Fullerton Strat copy. So this is just an FYI.

Step two - Check string height at nut.( Fender suggests using a capo at to eliminate the affect of an improperly set nut, but better to get it right). When fretting a given string at the third fret, look back to the nut. The string should neither be sitting on the first fret nor far enough above that you can see a gap thicker than a hair ( I'm not kidding, a hair). This is a very subtle point to reach and you need proper nut files to set it. This setting is crucial for achieving proper playing height up the neck. If it is too high here, you are going to end up setting the action lower at the 12th fret than it really out to be , resulting in buzzing ( the string will measure out correct at the 12th fret yet actually be inclining down as it progresses towards the bridge saddles).

http://www.guitarrepairshop.com/ask.html#elec

My Sunburst after the nut change feels and sounds better.

[Pickngrin]

I can sympathize with you, Pickngrin. I've asked myself that question many a time.
You "start over" by starting back through each step and making adjustments to get the guitar back into playing shape. It can be time-consuming and frustrating, but you can do it!
If the only thing you changed (and then changed back) was the nut, you should be able to intonate the guitar again. One strat copy I own is very touchy, anything from a neck shim to a string gauge change throws it out. I then sit w/ a tuner, readjusting intonation on ea. string open and @ the12th fret 3 or 4 times till I get it right. I start w/ low E (bass string) and work across ea. one through all six, then start over and check till they are right.
If you took the strings off to change the nut, you might want to tune it up to pitch and leave it set awhile so the neck settles it to the tension before you intonate it. Some necks are touchier than others.
This may not help one bit, but we're pulling for you, and cheering from the sidelines.
Good luck!

Thanks, OldGuy, I really appreciate that. The only other thing that I did was a slight (and I mean slight, I don't know if it even changed anything) truss rod adjustment.