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Thread: string breakage

  1. #1
    pes_laul Guest

    Default string breakage

    this is getting annoying i keep on breaking strings all the time it either breaks right at the tuner or uncoils at the bridge and i cant afford another pack of strings right now is there any way to prevent this or a certain type of strings to use

  2. #2
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    What gauge of strings are you using first of all? Thinner strings (8's or 9's) will break easier than 10's or 11's of course, but also there may be other factors; one could be your pick attack, the way the guitar is set up, burrs on your saddles, you name it.

    I'd first take the guitar in for a good set up to make sure the nut is cut not too deep and also have the tech check the saddles.

    Then look at the basics...the gauge of your pick (too thick?) and maybe you need heavier strings.

    I'm using DR strings now (10's) with a .88mm or 1mm nylon pick. No problems at all with strings breaking.
    Guitars: 2003 and 2004 American series strats, Squier Classic Vibe 50's Strat, Squier Deluxe Strat.

    Amps: Line 6 Spider IV 120, Vox AD50VT 212, and Peavey Transtube Bandit 112.

    Pedals: Digitech Bad Monkey.

  3. #3
    pes_laul Guest

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    i use elixars 10's and i use dunlop tortex .88mm (the green one) but could drop tuning be a factor because some of the songs i play require different tunings

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    I don't think drop tuning would be a factor, especially since alot of guys like SRV and Kenny Wayne Shepherd use drop tuning, but much thicker strings. If you're using Elixirs and a Tortex pick, you shouldn't be getting that much breakage.

    I'd have the guitar checked by a good tech...it could be the way the nut is cut, as well as burrs in the saddles. Graph Tech saddles are excellent and help reduce breakage.
    Guitars: 2003 and 2004 American series strats, Squier Classic Vibe 50's Strat, Squier Deluxe Strat.

    Amps: Line 6 Spider IV 120, Vox AD50VT 212, and Peavey Transtube Bandit 112.

    Pedals: Digitech Bad Monkey.

  5. #5
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    If you are changing tunings often then your culprit could be friction along the contact area at the bridge saddle, and tension and relief could possibly cause breakage near the tuner.

    Try leaving the guitar in one tuning and see how long you can go before the breakage occurs. If it's just the same string all the time then your bridge saddle could have a burr or if you are attacking the strings really hard all the time might also cause a problem.

    Stings are metal and they fatigue over time. You didn't say how long you go with a new string before it breaks. They don't last forever and changing tunings often will shorten their life span.

    "No Tele For you." - The Tele Nazi

    Ha! Tele-ish now inbound.

  6. #6
    pes_laul Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spudman
    If you are changing tunings often then your culprit could be friction along the contact area at the bridge saddle, and tension and relief could possibly cause breakage near the tuner.

    Try leaving the guitar in one tuning and see how long you can go before the breakage occurs. If it's just the same string all the time then your bridge saddle could have a burr or if you are attacking the strings really hard all the time might also cause a problem.

    Stings are metal and they fatigue over time. You didn't say how long you go with a new string before it breaks. They don't last forever and changing tunings often will shorten their life span.
    yeah i had those about a week and its always the A or the little e string but my dad has had elixars since last october and he hasnt broken any and im starting to think its my playing or the guitar

  7. #7
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    It might be. Examine your technique first, but I would also think about a little light filing on those particular saddles. There may be a burr.

    "No Tele For you." - The Tele Nazi

    Ha! Tele-ish now inbound.

  8. #8
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    I wont own a guitar without a roller nut or graph tech saddles, graph tech string tree (where it applies).....do this with proper string break in and you will almost never break a string again! I change my strings because of age never because of breakage and I play the snot out of my guitars....about 16hrs a week......
    Guitars: Epiphone Special 2 LP modded with a SD Pearly Gates and a SD Alnico 2 flat strat pro.300K pots.Tone pros Brass Stop tailpiece.Dunlop frets dressed to .031,LSR roller nut, Spezel custom stainless steel locking tuners. Satin finished neck.Fender MIM 50's strat modded with LSR roller nut, graph tech string tree,sperzel satin chrome locking tuners, graph tech saddles,300K push pull volume for "neck on pup" and 200K tone pots.PUPS:Neck seymore duncan QP single coil for strat. Middle: Seymour Duncan JB Jr with coil tap (so actually a 9 way tone selection). Bridge: Same as neck.Amps/Cabs.2 Epi Valve Jr's, Peavey Delta Blues 1x15. Randall RG200es,Guitar research 4x8 cab loaded W/celestion super 8's and rewired for two-2x8 operation.Marshall 4x12 slant lead cab,Johnson cab 1x12.

  9. #9
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    pes laul

    You have your strat decked not floating right? Youve changed brands of strings too? While I love to mod guitars to add fancy stuff I think it wont fix your problems of breakage at the tuner or unraveling of the butt end. You should look at these. Unraveling = 1. Too high tension on the trem springs (Most Likely). 2. Bridge saddle burr, swap the low E and the High E saddles. 3. Look at the angle of break of the string thru the trem plate up to the saddle it is actually breaking there If so there is a sharp edge on the trem plate. 4. Changing tunings without regard to the fact that during this some strings are being drawn past their limit, if you take off the tension of the lower strings then the top 3 have to take the load of the trem springs. Tuner breaks = 1. Breakage at the tuner is usually caused by slippage during installation, after the string has been bent through the hole but before you get the new string tensioned it slips a little then later that kink breaks. 2. The tuner has a sharp edge on the string hole from wear. 3. The string overlaps itself on the tuner shaft instead of laying flat this will cause it to cut the string. Sounds like you might want to go up to 11's, they are harder to break.

  10. #10
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    Oh....I forgot get some sperzel locking tuners......that solves the tuner breakage problem.
    Guitars: Epiphone Special 2 LP modded with a SD Pearly Gates and a SD Alnico 2 flat strat pro.300K pots.Tone pros Brass Stop tailpiece.Dunlop frets dressed to .031,LSR roller nut, Spezel custom stainless steel locking tuners. Satin finished neck.Fender MIM 50's strat modded with LSR roller nut, graph tech string tree,sperzel satin chrome locking tuners, graph tech saddles,300K push pull volume for "neck on pup" and 200K tone pots.PUPS:Neck seymore duncan QP single coil for strat. Middle: Seymour Duncan JB Jr with coil tap (so actually a 9 way tone selection). Bridge: Same as neck.Amps/Cabs.2 Epi Valve Jr's, Peavey Delta Blues 1x15. Randall RG200es,Guitar research 4x8 cab loaded W/celestion super 8's and rewired for two-2x8 operation.Marshall 4x12 slant lead cab,Johnson cab 1x12.

  11. #11
    pes_laul Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by chordshredder
    pes laul

    You have your strat decked not floating right? Youve changed brands of strings too? While I love to mod guitars to add fancy stuff I think it wont fix your problems of breakage at the tuner or unraveling of the butt end. You should look at these. Unraveling = 1. Too high tension on the trem springs (Most Likely). 2. Bridge saddle burr, swap the low E and the High E saddles. 3. Look at the angle of break of the string thru the trem plate up to the saddle it is actually breaking there If so there is a sharp edge on the trem plate. 4. Changing tunings without regard to the fact that during this some strings are being drawn past their limit, if you take off the tension of the lower strings then the top 3 have to take the load of the trem springs. Tuner breaks = 1. Breakage at the tuner is usually caused by slippage during installation, after the string has been bent through the hole but before you get the new string tensioned it slips a little then later that kink breaks. 2. The tuner has a sharp edge on the string hole from wear. 3. The string overlaps itself on the tuner shaft instead of laying flat this will cause it to cut the string. Sounds like you might want to go up to 11's, they are harder to break.
    Yeah i dont use a trem right now ( i have three springs one the trem right now) should i take a spring off maybe

  12. #12
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    Before you go radically changing the setup. What condition is the guitar in? Are there sharp edges on the tuner holes? Is there rust in those areas? Do you really want to keep the guitar? Is it the 86 Squire? Couldnt you almost replace it for the price of new tuners and saddles?

  13. #13
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    I have a very old Kent it has 6 inline open tuners on a plate, I've had the oppurtunity to try 4 possible replacements and none fit. It was breaking strings mostly the small e. I took a flat shoe lace loaded it with toothpaste and buffed the edges of the tuner holes. No more breaky. You see chrome is very hard, the steel underneath is softer, so wear thru the plating into the parent metal lets there be a sharp ridge. You could try the same on both ends of the guitar. Try some Fender Pure nickel or stainless strings they are cheap and are as good as any. I dont like nickel plated steel as I wear thru the plating and then they rust. As too the butt end wrap unraveling when that happened to me the strings probably had sat around here for 5 years and corrosion got to them and they broke promptly after a few songs. Ive got 13 guitars and have only rarely had strings just break and I dont have any fancy tuners. If a tuner should start to walk on a double bend I would consider needing tuners. So what kind of music do you play?

  14. #14
    pes_laul Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by chordshredder
    Before you go radically changing the setup. What condition is the guitar in? Are there sharp edges on the tuner holes? Is there rust in those areas? Do you really want to keep the guitar? Is it the 86 Squire? Couldnt you almost replace it for the price of new tuners and saddles?
    yeah i could replace it for those prices, for tuners but until i can scrounge up some money to buy a new one ive got to make it last

  15. #15
    pes_laul Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by chordshredder
    I have a very old Kent it has 6 inline open tuners on a plate, I've had the oppurtunity to try 4 possible replacements and none fit. It was breaking strings mostly the small e. I took a flat shoe lace loaded it with toothpaste and buffed the edges of the tuner holes. No more breaky. You see chrome is very hard, the steel underneath is softer, so wear thru the plating into the parent metal lets there be a sharp ridge. You could try the same on both ends of the guitar. Try some Fender Pure nickel or stainless strings they are cheap and are as good as any. I dont like nickel plated steel as I wear thru the plating and then they rust. As too the butt end wrap unraveling when that happened to me the strings probably had sat around here for 5 years and corrosion got to them and they broke promptly after a few songs. Ive got 13 guitars and have only rarely had strings just break and I dont have any fancy tuners. If a tuner should start to walk on a double bend I would consider needing tuners. So what kind of music do you play?
    everything but country i guess i play stevie ray vaughn and system of a down (which goes for the drop tuning) i play classic rock like Guns n roses Etc also i like the beatles, so yeah i have to do alot of different setups with my guitar

  16. #16
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    Those are some good stuff. I actually met Stevie Ray, Tommy Shannon and Chris before they got into the big time. I cant play his fast stuff but I love Tin Pan Alley. Well think you have enuf feedback on this let us know what gives.

  17. #17
    pes_laul Guest

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    well I,m going to my dads house this weekend and were gonna take it to a music shop to find the problem (hopefuly) but yeah thanks for the feedbacks appreciate it

    -Kris

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