Soldering Iron Recommendations

[Commodore 64***]

Mine takes a while to heat up too. I also got an extra tip kit, but so far so good.

BTW, the solder sucker they have there...http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=370-030 for 4 bucks works great too.

[Duff]

Do these soldering stations, 40 watts max, melt the new lead free solder being used internationally?

[tunghaichuan***]

Do these soldering stations, 40 watts max, melt the new lead free solder being used internationally?

They should, the temperature dial goes high enough. But the issue is that the solder melts at such a high temperature that the components can cook due to the high heat. Also, the joints using the new lead-free solder aren't shiny like leaded solder joints so it is hard to tell if the joint is cold-soldered joint or not.

[Duff]

Tunghaichuan, so what is the best approach?

New lead free solder requires more heat. Heat can destroy components.

Wouldn't a 200 watt soldering gun or more powerful than 40 watt iron heat up the joint faster at the local site and penetrate less net heat into the component; thereby heating the joint site to required temp fast, do the soldering, and get out of there?

Use leaded solder over the old new solder joint, clip old wires, and use low power 20 - 40 watt pencil iron?

[tunghaichuan***]

IMHO, the best approach is to stock up on leaded solder. That new stuff flat out sucks. I have pretty much a lifetime supply. I believe leaded solder is still sold in the USA, so I'd get some while I still could.

For soldering, it really isn't how much wattage the iron has, it is more the mass of the tip. I think a a 40-60 watt station is the best. But get a tip that is suitable for soldering guitar stuff.

The nice thing about the soldering stations is that several different sizes and types of tips are available. The tips also tend to be better quality. The two replacements I got for my Hakko station are still going strong after 15 years of use.

You don't want an iron that is too powerful, a 200 watt iron with a massive tip would fry your components in a hurry unless you were very quick with the iron.

Also you'd want to remove the old solder with a solder sucker or desoldering wick, even if it is the new lead free stuff. You want to get a nice clean joint, don't solder over existing lead free joints. So basically, you have to learn how to de-solder the new stuff effectively so you can replace it with leaded.

Tunghaichuan, so what is the best approach?

New lead free solder requires more heat. Heat can destroy components.

Wouldn't a 200 watt soldering gun or more powerful than 40 watt iron heat up the joint faster at the local site and penetrate less net heat into the component; thereby heating the joint site to required temp fast, do the soldering, and get out of there?

Use leaded solder over the old new solder joint, clip old wires, and use low power 20 - 40 watt pencil iron?

[syo***]

I've found this thread to be very helpful. Thanks all. Tung, you especially seem to know your stuff. I am thinking to order the Hakko 936 but I am surprised to learn that it sells for twice the price (here in Japan) as in the US. I am currently using a very cheap $4 iron and have tons of soldering coming up so I do need to upgrade to a station. I saw a Hakko 936 shipping from China for $70 which looks authentic but you never know. Perhaps I'll give it a try.

For those asking about tip shapes, the Hakko site has a helpful guide:

http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/index.html

BTW Tung. I just noticed. Do you like The Immigrant Song or are you a devotee of Thor by chance?

[Duff]

Therefore, Tung, if a lot of heat is required to melt the new solder how do you remove it without burning the inside of the pots, etc.?

What is the best method to use here? Wrap the pot in a piece of wet cloth to help absorb the heat?

[tunghaichuan***]

Therefore, Tung, if a lot of heat is required to melt the new solder how do you remove it without burning the inside of the pots, etc.?

What is the best method to use here? Wrap the pot in a piece of wet cloth to help absorb the heat?

Like anything else, you need a lot of skill. You also have to have the optimal setup, which is a temperature controlled station and the correct tip with enough mass to melt the solder quickly and remove it before it cooks the components. Speed is of the essence here. That, and a lot of practice.

[syo***]

Just got the Hakko 936 station and it works great. Heats up in seconds, nice iron. Amazing what a difference it is from the cheap iron I was using.

[duhvoodooman***]

Just got the Hakko 936 station and it works great. Heats up in seconds, nice iron. Amazing what a difference it is from the cheap iron I was using.

I'm sure loving mine....and kicking myself for not having bought one sooner!

[syo***]

I'm sure loving mine....and kicking myself for not having bought one sooner!

I feel exactly the same!

[tunghaichuan***]

Syo,

Sorry, I missed this before:

BTW Tung. I just noticed. Do you like The Immigrant Song or are you a devotee of Thor by chance?

I'm not a big fan of Led Zep, mainly because it was so over-played in the 80s and I got sick of hearing it all the time.

I just like Thor's Hammer as a symbol, it's not like I'm a devote of Asatru.

[EARNEST]

finally i am going to order hakko fx-888 with t18-d24 tips

[otaypanky***]

So, does that mean I'm doing this wrong?



Actually, I get better results using a $40 Weller WLC100 soldering station, 40 watt iron with variable temp

[Bloozcat]

Wow, except for the color, that Weller looks suspiciously like this Stahl I got from Parts Express for $12.00 last year, otaypanky . It's also 40 watts and it works great.

[otaypanky***]

Yes, it sure does. I see the Weller is up to $57 on Parts Express now, $52 at Radio Shack (online only)
I just used it assembling 2 amps and it was great. The only problem was me not knowing that leaving it on would burn up the tip. I left it on for countless hours while I was busy trying to figure out what the heck I was doing ~LOL
I went through one tip pretty fast. On the second amp I did better as I read a few posts and learned of my mistake

[Telefinken]

Here's my iron

[BobbySwift]

The best way to make sure components don't fry when installing them is to get a heatsink. You can buy heatsink devices that clip on to the leg of the component you are soldering and take the brunt of the heat so the part itself won't take up too much heat. they are a lot more effective than they sound or look like. I used to do lots of soldering in my job and found most of the time ii could get away without it (if you're quick enough) but mostly the heatsink idea is best for things like IC chips and sensitive electronics.
Here's a link to see what they look like (one type at least): http://www.robotshop.com/Images/big/...g-heatsink.jpg

They are available through really any electronics supplier. Good luck with your projects

[Bloozcat]

The best way to make sure components don't fry when installing them is to get a heatsink. You can buy heatsink devices that clip on to the leg of the component you are soldering and take the brunt of the heat so the part itself won't take up too much heat. they are a lot more effective than they sound or look like. I used to do lots of soldering in my job and found most of the time ii could get away without it (if you're quick enough) but mostly the heatsink idea is best for things like IC chips and sensitive electronics.
Here's a link to see what they look like (one type at least): http://www.robotshop.com/Images/big/...g-heatsink.jpg

They are available through really any electronics supplier. Good luck with your projects

I've been using hemostats for years. Not only do they make a great heat sink, but they're also useful for holding components in place while soldering.