I spent many years as a bench tech working on electronic goods so (for once) I have an informed opinion to share!!! Woo!!!

Sadly though, It's the same as everyone elses :

Nothing new from me, but for what it's worth, everyone in our old workshop used temp controlled Weller irons. Many of us had different preferences to favourite tips and solder even doing the same kind of work. My main rig was a dual iron Weller setup with a very thin iron for SMD/LSI work that was temp critical like the CMOS chips the old CCD camcorders used to use, and a 'normal' sized iron for 90% of my day to day needs. I also used a Hakko de-soldering station (like a soldering iron with a hollow tip and a vacuum pump). I used flux/resin cored solder exclusively. Some guys swore by the super thin stuff for fine work (working under a magnifier) but I hated it because there was bugger all flux in the core and I preferred to use thicker solder and rely on technique to avoid applying too much. Eventually as I found myself doing more and more SMD work I switched to solder paste and a specially made heat gun type of iron made specifically for this purpose.

So long story short.

- Back in the day Weller was most definitely the weapon of choice for pro's. Hakko was also regarded, but we never seemed to actually buy them.
- Thick solder is easier to use IMO as it contains more flux so is likely better for beginners. As I said though, amongst Pro's I worked with, thick/thin was a personal preference.
- Tips wise. Make them last longer by keeping your sponge wet and the crap off your tip. Probably not an issue for the casual user, but we had a beer penalty system in place for any of use who left irons turned on when we were not using them as tips burn out fast. Especially small ones. Sometimes I'd just wind the temp all the way down in between jobs though instead of turning it off.
- Temp controlled stations. I used them almost exclusively, but I definitely could have got away without one for most work. I also had a big old higher wattage iron in the drawer that I pulled out if I needed serious heat. If I were to buy another iron I doubt I'd spring for a temp controlled station just to work on amps and pedals.
- Direct powered Vs "Station" style. Whilst my current iron is a direct powered (power cable goes into the handle) Weller. I don't recommend them for anything other than very occasional work. The big fat thick power cable just gets in the way and has a habit of knocking stuff over, and off the bench. The irons that have the soft flexible cable from the base station to the iron are MUCH nicer to use and I lament the loss of mine every time I use my current one.
- Do use needle nose pliers, alligator clips or proper heat sink style clips whenever possible to stop whatever you are soldering getting too hot. When I soldered CMOS devices or Germanium Diodes/transistors I often use my fingers, not as a heat sink (although it works) but as a heat gauge. Too hot to hold means too hot for the device.
- If you buy a hand held solder sucker (a good thing to have by the way) here's a tip that may not be all that practical these days, but just in case. They all come with a slightly heat resistant plastic tip. If you use them often, the tip will melt and get clogged with solder and stuff and you'll eventually replace it. I repaired a heck of a lot of things with CRT's in them in the day and every time I replaced a HT transformer I'd cut the HT lead (the thick one with the big rubber cap) in half because the rubber (OK not rubber but some kind of silicon I guess) cap that was on the other end of the lead (where the lead goes into the transformer) is a perfect fit for the tip of a solder sucker, is highly heat resistant, and very soft and flexible so you can get some good suction happening. Because it's so soft after you've removed the solder, you can generally just twist the rubber tip between your fingers to clean out the solder thats been collected. I do not suggest trying to source your own by performing surgery on TV's left out for the rubbish man as CRT tubes contain voltages that can kill. Even if they don't kill you they hurt like a mofo if they get you, I know first hand. If know any TV repair dudes just ask them if they can score some for you.

OK thats enough for now, work beckons.