Soldering Iron Recommendations

[Duff]

No way. You didn't muck things up at all.

I have a spartan set up that works fine.

I have an old, like 30 year old weller 20 watt =+- pencil type soldering iron - like the ones on the welding stations except it is just one power and just plugs directly into the wall with no control box.

The one with the variable power would be best if you are going to continue to do this type of thing. Otherwise an inexpensive weller pencil type about 20 watts would be fine.

The Radio Shack solder is about five bucks and the can of paste flux with brush comes in really really handy for a novice and it costs probably about two dollars.

So for about fifty dollars you can have a top notch single power soldering rig with supplies with no problem. Why waste money? You might not enjoy doing mods. But then you could turn over a nice soldering rig really easy I'm sure right here on the fret.

I know quite a bit about soldering in pickups and might be able to help you just before you dive in. You can call me at 570 764 5705 any time. Sometimes you have to solder and tape off some wires you will not be using unless you are going to coil tap the pickups and get pots designed for coil tapping. This is a way bigger job than just putting in humbuckers or single coils because instead of substituting where wires go you have to dissassemble the whole pot, desolder all the wires and get them right on the new, different format pots. I have not split my coils yet because I usually just use the existing pots. Like two nights ago when I put a Fender Custom Shop Texas Special bridge pup in my '07 walnut stain Squire Standard Tele. Sounds unreal.

Duffy

[just strum]

So for about fifty dollars you can have a top notch single power soldering rig with supplies with no problem. Why waste money? You might not enjoy doing mods. But then you could turn over a nice soldering rig really easy I'm sure right here on the fret.

You have a point, this could be my first and last mod or I may only do one or two a year. If I go to another level, then I can look at a station. So if I do that, 20 watt is where I should be looking?

[Ch0jin]

I spent many years as a bench tech working on electronic goods so (for once) I have an informed opinion to share!!! Woo!!!

Sadly though, It's the same as everyone elses :

Nothing new from me, but for what it's worth, everyone in our old workshop used temp controlled Weller irons. Many of us had different preferences to favourite tips and solder even doing the same kind of work. My main rig was a dual iron Weller setup with a very thin iron for SMD/LSI work that was temp critical like the CMOS chips the old CCD camcorders used to use, and a 'normal' sized iron for 90% of my day to day needs. I also used a Hakko de-soldering station (like a soldering iron with a hollow tip and a vacuum pump). I used flux/resin cored solder exclusively. Some guys swore by the super thin stuff for fine work (working under a magnifier) but I hated it because there was bugger all flux in the core and I preferred to use thicker solder and rely on technique to avoid applying too much. Eventually as I found myself doing more and more SMD work I switched to solder paste and a specially made heat gun type of iron made specifically for this purpose.

So long story short.

- Back in the day Weller was most definitely the weapon of choice for pro's. Hakko was also regarded, but we never seemed to actually buy them.
- Thick solder is easier to use IMO as it contains more flux so is likely better for beginners. As I said though, amongst Pro's I worked with, thick/thin was a personal preference.
- Tips wise. Make them last longer by keeping your sponge wet and the crap off your tip. Probably not an issue for the casual user, but we had a beer penalty system in place for any of use who left irons turned on when we were not using them as tips burn out fast. Especially small ones. Sometimes I'd just wind the temp all the way down in between jobs though instead of turning it off.
- Temp controlled stations. I used them almost exclusively, but I definitely could have got away without one for most work. I also had a big old higher wattage iron in the drawer that I pulled out if I needed serious heat. If I were to buy another iron I doubt I'd spring for a temp controlled station just to work on amps and pedals.
- Direct powered Vs "Station" style. Whilst my current iron is a direct powered (power cable goes into the handle) Weller. I don't recommend them for anything other than very occasional work. The big fat thick power cable just gets in the way and has a habit of knocking stuff over, and off the bench. The irons that have the soft flexible cable from the base station to the iron are MUCH nicer to use and I lament the loss of mine every time I use my current one.
- Do use needle nose pliers, alligator clips or proper heat sink style clips whenever possible to stop whatever you are soldering getting too hot. When I soldered CMOS devices or Germanium Diodes/transistors I often use my fingers, not as a heat sink (although it works) but as a heat gauge. Too hot to hold means too hot for the device.
- If you buy a hand held solder sucker (a good thing to have by the way) here's a tip that may not be all that practical these days, but just in case. They all come with a slightly heat resistant plastic tip. If you use them often, the tip will melt and get clogged with solder and stuff and you'll eventually replace it. I repaired a heck of a lot of things with CRT's in them in the day and every time I replaced a HT transformer I'd cut the HT lead (the thick one with the big rubber cap) in half because the rubber (OK not rubber but some kind of silicon I guess) cap that was on the other end of the lead (where the lead goes into the transformer) is a perfect fit for the tip of a solder sucker, is highly heat resistant, and very soft and flexible so you can get some good suction happening. Because it's so soft after you've removed the solder, you can generally just twist the rubber tip between your fingers to clean out the solder thats been collected. I do not suggest trying to source your own by performing surgery on TV's left out for the rubbish man as CRT tubes contain voltages that can kill. Even if they don't kill you they hurt like a mofo if they get you, I know first hand. If know any TV repair dudes just ask them if they can score some for you.

OK thats enough for now, work beckons.

[Duff]

My hand held, cord goes from wall right into the pencil type soldering iron, is 25 watts, just checked and this is enough, with patience, to melt all the solder I've encountered, but sometimes with difficulty. My weller is very old, like 30 years and has regular phone cord cable, very flexible. Regular cable like a radio.

I bought a cheap Radio Shack piece of junk 40 watt one that lasted about 3 months before it burnt out. The 40 one would desolder things very quickly. I plan on getting a good quality 40 watt one.

Also, if you learn to do basic soldering, you will be able to fix all sorts of things around the house that break down. Usually all you need to do is resolder a shorted out wire, unplugged of course, or solder a wire back together that a dog chewed in half. I have saved a lot of money soldering wires back on terminals, back together, etc. And used quite a bit of electrical tape. And by the way, 3M electrical tape costs more but is far better to use than the cheap walmart or other cheap brands. This is something that you should pay a little more for and I've found 3M to make some good grades, they are even rated for the average temperature or temp extremes of the part you are going to use them at. Different types for very cold or hot places.

Hope this is encouraging. A quality iron is something you want. I wish I knew the brand names of some decent ones. Maybe Craftsman. Don't get the GUN type, they get in the way and melt other wire insulation.

As stated by ChOjin, maybe the quality of Weller has gone way down. My old one is a champ.

Duffy

[Ch0jin]

... And used quite a bit of electrical tape. And by the way, 3M electrical tape costs more but is far better to use than the cheap walmart or other cheap brands.

That is very true, however heat shrink is a MUCH better option. Electrical tape is for binding cables, not insulating them in my humble opinion

Don't get the GUN type, they get in the way and melt other wire insulation.

100% Spot on. I've never even seen one in a commercial workshop.

As stated by ChOjin, maybe the quality of Weller has gone way down. My old one is a champ.

Duffy

Umm, I didn't state that Weller quality has gone way down. Far as I know it's as good as ever, but I've been out of the repair game for at least 10 years so anything could have happened in that time.

[Duff]

Thanks ChOjin,

I'll probably buy a fourty or so watt Weller then. I like having a more powerful iron around for that new solder, know what I mean?

Have you encountered it, the lead free solder, in any of your guitars or amps?

It seems like I have but I'm no expert. Some of it takes forever to melt and some melts quickly.

Duffy

I'm playing myself to sleep right now with that avatar LP Epi with "hot rodded" Seymour Duncan pups on it thru my Delta Blues with the RP 350 in line on the SOLDLY model and drive on the amp a little tremolo and reverb, nice sound. What is SOLDLY model, Soldano or Soldano with delay? Need to check that manual.

[Ch0jin]

Have you encountered it, the lead free solder, in any of your guitars or amps?

No I don't think so. Then again all the stuff I work on is either old (pre ROHS), or made by me using "old" solder from the rolls and rolls of it I seem to have lying around still

I'm playing myself to sleep right now with that avatar LP Epi with "hot rodded" Seymour Duncan pups on it thru my Delta Blues with the RP 350 in line on the SOLDLY model and drive on the amp a little tremolo and reverb, nice sound. What is SOLDLY model, Soldano or Soldano with delay? Need to check that manual.

Wow, playing yourself to sleep with a Soldano patch? My POD has a Soldano SLO patch and it's a high gain harmonic rich monster!! Not exactly bed time music, in fact I find it hard to play more than a handful of notes through that patch before I'm doing pinch harmonics and other metal mania