FWIW, I used this DVD to refresh my soldering skills. Well worth the $$, especially if you don't have anyone who can show you firsthand.
FWIW, I used this DVD to refresh my soldering skills. Well worth the $$, especially if you don't have anyone who can show you firsthand.
Axen: Jackson DK2M, Fender Deluxe Nashville Telecaster, Reverend Warhawk 390, Taylor 914ce, ESP LTD Surveyor-414
Amphen: Jet City JCA22H and JCA12S cab, Carvin X-60 combo, Acoustic B20
Effecten: "Thesis 96" Overdrive/Boost (aka DVM OD2), Hardwire DL-8 Digital Delay/Looper, DigiTech Polara Reverb, DigiTech EX-7 Expression Factory and CF-7 Chorus Factory, Danelectro CF-1 Cool Cat Fuzz
"I wish Imagine Dragons would be stuck in an Arcade Fire for an entire Vampire Weekend."--Brian Posehn
At Radio Shack a couple months ago I decided I needed to get a fourty watt iron to supplement my fifteen watt pencil type, so I picked up a RS fourty watt pencil type iron for eight dollars. I thought that was too cheap because my fifteen watt one at Wmart or somewhere similar was at least twice as much.
I was thrilled with the massive heat of the fourty watt iron and its ability to desolder big piles of solder quick, etc.
I found out why it was eight dollars about a month later maybe two months, when it failed. I took off the tip cleaned it up and noticed the electronic parts inside the tube just below the tip were completely burned out, shorted or whatever.
Close examination revealed the RS fourty watt iron to be JUNK. An attempt to return it was frowned upon with the statement that it had a thirty day warranty. I can see why.
My fifteen watt weller is many many years old and is an old standby with the original tip that I scrape off with the back side of an exacto knive and then flux and apply a thin layer of electronic type solder to it which I get from RS because solder with lead in it is hard to find anywhere else. Lead containing solder melts at a much lower temperature than the lead free type, apparantly, unless there is some type of lead free I don't know about.
Using flux when soldering in small amounts and tinning the iron first are major preparatory steps you can take to ensure outstanding solder joints.
I'm going to get a quality higher power iron. Where is a source for the good one discussed in this thread?
Thanks in advance,
Duffy
Duffy
South Williamsport, Pa.
"So let us stop talking falsely now, the hour's getting late." (as by JH)
Duff,
I buy most of my soldering supplies here:
http://www.wassco.com/
They are priced higher than most though:
http://www.wassco.com/Products/Hakko...02-126612.aspx
Just Google "Hakko 936" and you'll get a bunch of results under shopping:
http://www.google.com/products?q=hak...num=1&ct=title
Some of the stores are rated, so it give you an idea how good the service is.
There are some problems with the new lead-free solder, namely the one you mentioned: it melts at a much higher temperature than leaded solder. This makes it easier to over heat and damage componenets. Lead-free solder also can develop "whiskers" which can short to other parts of the circuit. Not good.
tung
- Dave Lizewski, Kick-A$$I was just a regular guy. My only super power was being invisible to girls.
I've got that DVD! Terry is just a great teacher, and that's a good production! My old soldering is just something I'm ashamed of...(nervermore)!Originally Posted by marnold
Thanks marnold, and o'course: Terry Downs. (No, I am not affiliated w/Terry in any way. Don't even know him.
So, does that mean I'm doing this wrong?
Actually, I get better results using a $40 Weller WLC100 soldering station, 40 watt iron with variable temp
Wow, except for the color, that Weller looks suspiciously like this Stahl I got from Parts Express for $12.00 last year, otaypanky . It's also 40 watts and it works great.
Ah, nothing relieves the discomfort of GAS pains like the sound of the UPS truck rumbling down your street. It's like the musician's Beano.