Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Buzzing after string change

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    MSP
    Posts
    3,913
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Buzzing after string change

    Question for whoever can answer:

    I recently changed the strings on my Agile AL-3100 (LP clone), and I put on GHS boomers, 0.011. Now, I get a tiny bit of buzz on open chords strummed hard. Moreover, in the Line 6 Pod Farm I mess around on quite a bit, there's a distinct buzz/distortion after the pick attack now, which makes even clean guitar sound distorted.

    So I guess it's a couple of questions: 1) Is it possible I screwed up something I don't even realize in restringing the guitar (it's the same gauge strings as the setup, except the low E is slightly heavier due to a different brand) and 2) Is this in any way related to the distortion I hear in Pod Farm/Gearbox now?

    I posted this in here because of the stop tailpiece/Les Paul thing, but maybe this would be better off in the beginner thread? Not sure.


    Eric
    Quote Originally Posted by Spudman
    Does anyone read the original post?
    Guitars: Gibson LP Studio, MIA Fender Precision, Carvin C350
    Amps: Genz Benz Shuttle 6.0 + Avatar B212 / Genzler 12-3, Acoustic B20
    Pedals: Pod HD500X, Diamond Compressor, Tech 21 VT Bass, Sonic Research Turbo Tuner

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    861
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    If you can figure out if it is only one string that is buzzing or several strings that are buzzing that can help figure out what is wrong. It will also be helpful to see if it is open string or fretted string that is buzzing.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    MSP
    Posts
    3,913
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I suppose I should note that the thing played great before, so this is all pretty new. I'm not sure if the software stuff is related, but I was looking for reasons why it sounded so bad.
    Quote Originally Posted by Spudman
    Does anyone read the original post?
    Guitars: Gibson LP Studio, MIA Fender Precision, Carvin C350
    Amps: Genz Benz Shuttle 6.0 + Avatar B212 / Genzler 12-3, Acoustic B20
    Pedals: Pod HD500X, Diamond Compressor, Tech 21 VT Bass, Sonic Research Turbo Tuner

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Kent, Ohio
    Posts
    1,271
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    Are the strings you put on a different gauge than the ones you had previously?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    MSP
    Posts
    3,913
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Commodore 64
    Are the strings you put on a different gauge than the ones you had previously?
    I believe the ones on there previously were here, while the new ones are here. As you can see, some difference, but not much. Both were 11s, but some of the intermediate strings were a smidge different.
    Quote Originally Posted by Spudman
    Does anyone read the original post?
    Guitars: Gibson LP Studio, MIA Fender Precision, Carvin C350
    Amps: Genz Benz Shuttle 6.0 + Avatar B212 / Genzler 12-3, Acoustic B20
    Pedals: Pod HD500X, Diamond Compressor, Tech 21 VT Bass, Sonic Research Turbo Tuner

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    North of the Equator: I am a Southerner, Southern Ontario!
    Posts
    2,041
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    When you changed the strings did you do them individually or did you take them all off at once and start from scratch? If you did the neck would not have tension on it and it could have moved slightly. I would check the neck reliief and see if you need a minor adjustment. The string tension will bring the neck back into alignment but it may take a day or so.
    You could also check the nut and make sure the strings are seated properly.
    Other than a possibility that the bridge was moved slightly that is all that coud affect the buzzing.
    The Blues is alright!

    Guitars: 1968 Gibson SG, 2005 Gibson SG Standard, 2006 Gibson LP Classic Gold top, 2004 Epiphone Elitist LP Custom, 1996 Gibson Les Paul Standard. 2001 Epiphone Sheraton II, 2007 Epiphone G400.
    Fender Strats: 1996 Fender 68 Reissue CIJ, 2008 Squier CV 50s, 2009 Squier CV 50s Tele Butterescotch Blonde

    Amps: Blues Junior Special edition Jensen in Brown Tolex with Wheat front, 65 Deluxe Reverb reissue,1970 Sonax reverb by Traynor, Avatar Custom 2/12 Cabinet with Eminence Legend V1216 speakers,
    2008 DSL100 Marshall Amp , Fender Super Champ XD,Fender Vibro Champ XD

    Effects and Pedals: Fulltone Fulldrive II, Fulltone OCD, Fulltone Mini Deja Vibe, Fulltone Fat Boost, Dunlop Crybaby Wah, Boss DS1, Boss DD20 Giga Delay, Boss TU2 tuner, Boss BD2, Ibanez TS9 Tube screamer, Zoom 505. Radial tonebone hot british.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    MSP
    Posts
    3,913
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ZMAN
    When you changed the strings did you do them individually or did you take them all off at once and start from scratch? If you did the neck would not have tension on it and it could have moved slightly. I would check the neck reliief and see if you need a minor adjustment. The string tension will bring the neck back into alignment but it may take a day or so.
    You could also check the nut and make sure the strings are seated properly.
    Other than a possibility that the bridge was moved slightly that is all that coud affect the buzzing.
    Thanks. My main concern is that something like the bridge or tailpiece screw height/tension may have changed. Are those things super-touchy to the point where a slight rotation of either screw could really mess with your action?

    If the answer is 'yes', do you happen to know of any good links for simple bridge and tailpiece setup/adjustment?
    Quote Originally Posted by Spudman
    Does anyone read the original post?
    Guitars: Gibson LP Studio, MIA Fender Precision, Carvin C350
    Amps: Genz Benz Shuttle 6.0 + Avatar B212 / Genzler 12-3, Acoustic B20
    Pedals: Pod HD500X, Diamond Compressor, Tech 21 VT Bass, Sonic Research Turbo Tuner

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Kent, UK
    Posts
    2,353
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    First check the relief. Put a capo at the first fret and fret the top E at the last fret clear of the body. Measure the clearance under the fret halfway between. You should be able to just get a 2nd string under there without touching as a general rule. If the gap is huge you'll need to tighten the truss rod. If no clearance, loosen it. Go gently, 1/8th turn at a time.

    One that's set, use the bridge screws to set the action. It just goes straight up and down all at once so it's quite simple. You can measure the string height as you move the bridge. Tune and test for buzzes.

    Use the tailpiece screws to fine tune the sustain and playing feel. Often tailpieces are screwed right down as "more angle = better", right? Well, not necessarily. This can give you a really choked sounding, tight feeling guitar. The only way to find the optimum height is by trial and error with a lot of retuning between adjustments.

    Set the intonation once you've made all other adjustments. Never adjust intonation with old strings.

    All this takes me about half an hour.
    Electric: Fat strat > Korg PB > TS7 > DS1 > DD-20 > Cube 60 (Fender model)

    Acoustic: Guitar > microphone > audience

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    MSP
    Posts
    3,913
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ZMAN
    When you changed the strings did you do them individually or did you take them all off at once and start from scratch?
    BTW, I did take them all off and then restring the whole thing. That was about a week ago, and it's still acting funny, but duly noted for the next time I change them.
    Quote Originally Posted by Spudman
    Does anyone read the original post?
    Guitars: Gibson LP Studio, MIA Fender Precision, Carvin C350
    Amps: Genz Benz Shuttle 6.0 + Avatar B212 / Genzler 12-3, Acoustic B20
    Pedals: Pod HD500X, Diamond Compressor, Tech 21 VT Bass, Sonic Research Turbo Tuner

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    North of the Equator: I am a Southerner, Southern Ontario!
    Posts
    2,041
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Yes Eric it is not a good idea to take all the tension off the neck if you don't have to. There are times when you must remove the strings, such as a pickup replacement or fret work etc. In that case you would probably have to adjust things again. What you are dealing with is thousands of an inch for buzzes so it can be a slight variation or a multiple of small things that cause it. You probably did not have the tension off very long and a small adjustment is all you need. I am not one to advise on set up. I have a great tech that I take all my guitars to. He will do a complete set up for 30 bucks plus strings. I usually don't change strings very often so I haven't run into this issue. The only time I have had to adjust a neck was a seasonal adjustment to a Fender Strat. That was only a couple of turns on the truss rod.
    The Blues is alright!

    Guitars: 1968 Gibson SG, 2005 Gibson SG Standard, 2006 Gibson LP Classic Gold top, 2004 Epiphone Elitist LP Custom, 1996 Gibson Les Paul Standard. 2001 Epiphone Sheraton II, 2007 Epiphone G400.
    Fender Strats: 1996 Fender 68 Reissue CIJ, 2008 Squier CV 50s, 2009 Squier CV 50s Tele Butterescotch Blonde

    Amps: Blues Junior Special edition Jensen in Brown Tolex with Wheat front, 65 Deluxe Reverb reissue,1970 Sonax reverb by Traynor, Avatar Custom 2/12 Cabinet with Eminence Legend V1216 speakers,
    2008 DSL100 Marshall Amp , Fender Super Champ XD,Fender Vibro Champ XD

    Effects and Pedals: Fulltone Fulldrive II, Fulltone OCD, Fulltone Mini Deja Vibe, Fulltone Fat Boost, Dunlop Crybaby Wah, Boss DS1, Boss DD20 Giga Delay, Boss TU2 tuner, Boss BD2, Ibanez TS9 Tube screamer, Zoom 505. Radial tonebone hot british.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sebastian, Florida
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    A lot of times, after a string change, a tuner shaft nut loosens and causes the washer to buzz or chatter that is mistaken for string buzz.
    Worth checking.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    MSP
    Posts
    3,913
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by markb
    First check the relief. Put a capo at the first fret and fret the top E at the last fret clear of the body. Measure the clearance under the fret halfway between. You should be able to just get a 2nd string under there without touching as a general rule. If the gap is huge you'll need to tighten the truss rod. If no clearance, loosen it. Go gently, 1/8th turn at a time.
    Thank you so much for this. It's not nearly as intimidating when you lay it out like that. One question: when you say the high E, are you talking about the 0.011 string? And you mean the gap should be the thickness of the B string?
    Quote Originally Posted by Spudman
    Does anyone read the original post?
    Guitars: Gibson LP Studio, MIA Fender Precision, Carvin C350
    Amps: Genz Benz Shuttle 6.0 + Avatar B212 / Genzler 12-3, Acoustic B20
    Pedals: Pod HD500X, Diamond Compressor, Tech 21 VT Bass, Sonic Research Turbo Tuner

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Kent, UK
    Posts
    2,353
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Eric
    Thank you so much for this. It's not nearly as intimidating when you lay it out like that. One question: when you say the high E, are you talking about the 0.011 string? And you mean the gap should be the thickness of the B string?
    Yes and yes. Some guitars play better with more or less relief but that's a good starting point.
    Electric: Fat strat > Korg PB > TS7 > DS1 > DD-20 > Cube 60 (Fender model)

    Acoustic: Guitar > microphone > audience

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •