Epi LP neck issue question - rising fretboard end?

[tjcurtin1]

I just got my Epi Traditional Pro LP and have a question about the neck. It has a bit of relief in it which is fine, but when you look along the bass side it is clear that the distance of the E string from the fretboard decreases as you get to the end of the fretboard; that is, the end of the fretboard seems to rise a bit towards the strings. Spacing is 6/64 at the 12th fret and 4.5/64 at the 22nd fret. Seems to me that this isn't right - at this setting I get a little buzz on the upper frets. If this is normal or within specs, fine, but if not it is a brand new guitar and I'd rather have one that's right. BTW, otherwise I really like the sound and feel of this guitar.

Thanks!

[Bookkeeper's Son]

None of my guitars is like that, including one Epiphone. Methinks you should oughta get a replacement. With what you described, the action could never be set any lower without excessive fret buzz, and constant string tension over the years will probably make the situation even worse.

Edit: I'd use a straight-edge to try to better see the variation in straightness of the fretboard.

[tjcurtin1]

Could this be a mis-set neck? I notice that the end of the neck is not flush with the top of the neck pickup ring/surround, in case it is supposed to be. The neck ends and then there is a small drop to the top of the ring.

[FrankenFretter***]

Could this be a mis-set neck? I notice that the end of the neck is not flush with the top of the neck pickup ring/surround, in case it is supposed to be. The neck ends and then there is a small drop to the top of the ring.

That would've been my guess as well. Bless Epi's lifetime warranty!

[Bookkeeper's Son]

Even if the neck is set at the wrong angle, it wouldn't explain what you've described - what you've described could only, IMO, be a less-than-flat fretboard. But, as Sean said, "bless the lifetime warranty". The warranty does work - I know because my Epi was replaced under it. If you bought from a retailer with a (30 or 45 day, etc.) return policy, take advantage of it NOW.

[tjcurtin1]

Even if the neck is set at the wrong angle, it wouldn't explain what you've described - what you've described could only, IMO, be a less-than-flat fretboard. But, as Sean said, "bless the lifetime warranty". The warranty does work - I know because my Epi was replaced under it. If you bought from a retailer with a (30 or 45 day, etc.) return policy, take advantage of it NOW.

I see what you mean - tho the relief is appropriate, if it is the result of the middle of the neck bowing back instead of the headstock coming forward, it would create this dip that makes the end of the fretboard higher.

[tjcurtin1]

Here is a photo, tho I'm not sure you can make it out visually or not - it is measurable though.

[Bookkeeper's Son]

You said that the relief is "appropriate" - with the low E fretted at the 1st and 16th fret, how much relief is there at the 7th?

[NWBasser]

Looks like a "ski jump" where the neck slopes upward towards the joint.

There should be a bit of fall-away of the frets towards the neck joint to maintain proper string height.

Looks defective to me. Warranty time.

[tjcurtin1]

You said that the relief is "appropriate" - with the low E fretted at the 1st and 16th fret, how much relief is there at the 7th?

AHA! That, Sir, is an excellent question (he said sheepishly )! Just when you think you know something - I guess that I'm not really good enough to judge
'appropriate relief' by eye....! This was indeed the problem, and actually measuring while adjusting the truss rod has taken care of the problem, fortunately. I must say tho that I am surprised. I had always assumed that the truss rod caused a slight neck bend by allowing the headstock to come forward, not by allowing the middle of the neck to bend back, as this caused the problem I experienced, of the middle frets being behind the plane of the highest frets. Anyway, ' we learn from our mistakes', as an old shop teacher often told me. Thanks everyone, especially Bookeeper's Son, for hanging in there with me and asking the right questions!

[deeaa*]

The trussrod ends well before the 'guitar portion' of the neck, i.e. at around like 14th fret or so, so it simply cannot affect the 'heel' portion of the neck which will always stay at the same set angle with the body.

Too often it's assumed that the best fretboard is entirely flat too, which is not the case. If I make a best possible fretboard, the frets will be lower than others under the thicker strings in the middle to allow for more clearance for vibration for instance, since they need it. Or in other words, a great neck has an almost perfectly flat shape with very little relief under the highest string but will bend more and have more relief under the low strings.

It depends on the playing style and preferences, but sometimes it may be preferable to for instance to have the least clearance between the frets and the string at the last i.e. 22-24th fret and not the middle of the string (12th) or in the middle of the fretboard /circa 7th fret).

Quite often such small details are what make handmade instruments better than factory ones. Perfect, straight lines aren't the best on a guitar fretboard.

[Bookkeeper's Son]

The trussrod ends well before the 'guitar portion' of the neck, i.e. at around like 14th fret or so, so it simply cannot affect the 'heel' portion of the neck which will always stay at the same set angle with the body.

AFAIK, that's not quite correct. Think about Fender necks and acoustics that have the adjustment at the base of the neck, indicating that the rod runs the entire length. But the effective range of a trussrod ends where the neck joins the body because of the structural rigidity of that area and above.

[deeaa*]

Well well before was exaggeration, it ends within the heel section. On Fender necks with headstock adjustment the rod ends also in the middle of the pocket, about 1" from the end.



However, the end section of the truss is not effective area both due to the neck being glued there and the threads inside the rod, the rod basically only curves well after the heel anyway.