Reverend Rawk
Reread your previous question. I wouldn't have gotten from that that you were concerned about heat. Caps are relatively heat-resistant as long as you do all the work in short order. In the future, you could just get a little alligator clip and clip it between the cap and where you are soldering it. The alligator clip will act like a heat-sink.
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Regular Fretter
Originally Posted by marnold
the alligator clip as a heat sink is a good way of not melting your caps, LEDs, Transistors (eventhough many have their own heat sinks, TIP120 for example) etc. One of the first things i learned about soldering onto PCBs.
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Regular Fretter
Cooling solding point
I have used a damp washcloth and placed it strategically or wrapped it around things that I don't want to cook. This has worked and caused the item I am attempting to protect to cool and require a lot more units of heat to overheat and burn the unit. Anything to draw off the heat or make it harder for the heat to overwhelm the item you are trying to protect seems better than using nothing and taking your chances becasue some of these things are very heat sensitive and can burn very easily.
You have to be smart and careful every time you do soldering. I'm pretty good at it and have all the necessary soldering apparatus I use in a container. I use a twenty five watt Weller pencil type soldering iron that is over twenty years old. I want to get a fourty watt back up unit for fast heat to the point of soldering use; get in fast and out fast before burning things up, but still that initial blast of intense heat can be conducted to items you want to protect, using a wet piece of cloth, wet q tips, ice cube or whatever, just don't short things out with the water; water is a conductor.
Duffy
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Regular Fretter
Something sounds weird here.
Since when does removing the tone cap cause no sound?
You should be able to remove all the tone circuit (i.e. pot and cap) and still get sound, more sound in some cases.
Secondly, I wonder why it wasn't soldered to the pot like every single other guitar I've ever seen, which is not many I'll grant you, but it seems like it's the norm.
If it wasn't a tone cap, then what was it? (.01uf does sound like a likely tone cap for humbuckers)
"The other wire on it just rests between the metal of the lower string bridge and the body of the guitar."
It sounds strangely like the grounding wire that typically runs from the scratch plate to the trem claw (in a strat style guitar) had a cap in series, which also makes no sense to me. Even so, removing that connection should get you hum + guitar sound, not hum only.
Bizarre I tell yah, just bizarre.
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