Tele project coming!

[Bloozcat]

If it's just the standard, thin poly finish that's on most MM necks, you can easily sand it off. I've done that on three MM necks and then had no problems shooting lacquer afterwards. It's easy to tell when you've got all the poly off. The sanding residue starts out a milky white color and then turns to plain maple sanding dust. It doesn't take very long to do. Then you simply shoot the bare wood with a lacquer sanding sealer and then the lacquer (or vintage amger tint dye, then clear lacquer).

The other alternative is to cover the poly with clear shellac as a base coat for the lacquer. You can't shoot lacquer right onto poly, but shellac being an organic compound is pretty much a universal undercoat. But, the whole reason for using nitro lacquer is so that you can get a nice thin but hard finish that buffs out to a brilliant gloss. So why spray it over poly and shellac first?

[M29]

Thanks Blooz,

In this case I will sand down to the maple but on other finishes I have put lacquer over poly because I got tired of sanding the darn poly. Like on my LP project I got almost all of the poly off but it seemed like it was so far into the wood that I could not get it all off. That was mahogany though which is more porous. Maple has a tighter grain which might help to keep the poly from sinking into the grain as much.

I was curious on adhesion to poly for other projects as well. I have found it hard to get poly to stick to poly, such as furniture and flooring. It was a general question that I probably should have explained more.

Thanks for the shellac tip Blooz!!