As a supplement to THIS INFORMATIVE POST by Dreadman re: the use of waterslide decals, I thought I'd pass along a bit more information on using them for DIY effects pedals, with some examples from the project I'm going to be using these decals for next.

Just a note up front--I understand that this may seem very complicated and a lot of work upon first reading. Just keep in mind that (1) things always seem more complicated when you've never done them before, (2) I've tried to include a lot of detail to make the various steps clear and anticipate possible questions, and (3) a lot of this stuff only needs to be done the first time, and thereafter can be copied or modified for subsequent decaling projects. So it's not as bad as it might seem!

Individual Graphics vs. Full-Face Decals:

I recently built a modified Fuzz Face clone (see THIS THREAD) and am now at the point of wanting to apply graphics and label the controls. I've used waterslide decals for this purpose in the past, and will do so again this time. On the first several DIY pedals I made, I printed, cut out and applied the individual graphics and controls labels much as you would do on the old Revell model car and airplane kits (so you can see what my experience base was!). This method is convenient and efficient for the initial creation of the decals--you just squeeze them into a compact area on your graphics program, which minimizes the quantity of the expensive decal printer paper used--but it has real disadvantages when it comes to applying them and finishing the pedal. Cutting out all the individual graphics and labels and applying them is tedious and time-consuming, and all those individual decals give slightly raised areas on the pedal finish, due to the thickness of the decal media. Even after 3 or 4 coats of clear lacquer or enamel, the "relief" of the decal edges is quite noticeable, unless you sand them smooth between coats or use some type of decal solvent/softener to "feather" out the edges after the initial application. Either way, it's extra time and effort to get a really good looking result.

But for the last couple of pedals, I went to "full face" decals, i.e. a single, large decal with all the graphics properly positioned, which covers the entire face of the effect enclosure. Here, the extra time and effort is spent upfront, getting the big decal laid out very precisely, so that the graphics and labels will be in exactly the correct positions on the enclosure face when the decal is applied. The more graphics used and the more complicated the pedal construction (number of pots, switches, LED's, etc.), the more difficult this becomes. It puts a premium on precise measurement of the enclosure dimensions and the position and size of each pot and switch. Measurements down to at least 1/32nds of an inch are critical, and I even go to 1/64ths in some cases. This technique also uses more decal paper, because you obviously have to print the decal to the actual size of the pedal face, which means that you typically end up printing a sizable amount of unfilled space.

The advantage of the full-face method becomes obvious at application time, because it makes this step relatively fast and easy. Cut it out to the size of the enclosure face, soak it for 30 seconds or so, and then slide it off the paper onto the enclosure, being careful not to trap air bubbles underneath. I also recommend using decal "mounting fluid" that the decal paper suppliers sell--spread a thin layer of this soapy-feeling liquid on the enclosure face, and it helps the decal to go on smoothly and be easily slid into the correct position. If you place the back of the well-wetted decal paper against the enclosure and slide a bit of the decal off and into place at one edge, you can then hold the decal edge with a couple of fingers and slowly pull the paper out from between the decal and enclosure. This does an excellent job of keeping air from getting under the decal. But even if it does, you can use a sponge or soft, flat tool (the decal paper suppliers sell specific rubber squeegee tools for this purpose) to squeeze the air out the sides. The wet decal can then be carefully slid into the exact position desired, and the excess water squeezed out from under the decal with the sponge or squeegee tool. Blot it as dry as possible with a paper towel and allow to air-dry overnight. By the next day, it should be dry enough to over-coat with clear lacquer or enamel. Two or three coats should be adequate.

To keep this one from getting ridiculously long, let's look at the process of creating the decal graphics in the next post....